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Discussion Starter #1
Has any one had the need to replace the Angular Contact Bearing or Grooved Ball Bearing for the telelever arm?
My front telelever has a harsh clunk upon front suspension compression after topping out. Inspection noted movement of the forks when elevating the front end and applying front to back force. The top and bottom shock mounts are tight. Ball joint is within spec. At this point I will remove the shock(Works Performance) And check for free play of the telelever. Any additional experience is appreciated. 73,000 on odometer.

Pete Murray
 

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Shock

Hey Pete.

Sorry I can't help you with your problem but I have a question for you.

How do you like the Works Performance shocks?

Do you have both front and rear?


Thanks

Spence
 

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PeteM said:
Has any one had the need to replace the Angular Contact Bearing or Grooved Ball Bearing for the telelever arm?
Yes, I replaced mine -- but only due to damage to one of the bearings in an accident. Given how these bearings are sized, sealed and loaded, I can't imagine one wearing out in normal use. My first thought is your issue is elsewhere.

PeteM said:
My front telelever has a harsh clunk upon front suspension compression after topping out. Inspection noted movement of the forks when elevating the front end and applying front to back force. The top and bottom shock mounts are tight. Ball joint is within spec.
Have you verified the bearing at the top is ok (the one under the steering head that ties to the top of the forks to the top peak of the main frame backbone)? Wear here could result in fore/aft movement of the wheel.

Also, do you know for a fact that the rubber bushing *under* the frame at the top shock mount is present? The top mount has a two-part rubber bush, and while most put the top rubber washer part back on, the lower (on the shock stud) rubber peice is sometimes inadvertantly omitted when a new shock is installed.

PeteM said:
At this point I will remove the shock(Works Performance) And check for free play of the telelever. Any additional experience is appreciated. 73,000 on odometer.
Good idea; between that and checking the other items mentioned above, you should be able to at least narrow the possibilities -- let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mark thanks.
Q
Have you verified the bearing at the top is ok (the one under the steering
head that ties to the top of the forks to the top peak of the main frame backbone)? Wear here could result in fore/aft movement of the wheel

I am suspect of this and will check.

Q
Also, do you know for a fact that the rubber bushing *under* the frame at the top shock mount is present?

Yes the lower bushing is present.

Will keep you posted . I will be working on the bike Tuesday afternoon.

Pete Murray
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Spence I am very happy with the works performance front shock. Works is a first rate company. The shock quality is on par with Ohlins and less expensive. I have a ohlins rear shock, also happy with it. I did not purchase a Works rear shock because at the time of my order works did not have a hydraulic preload system of there own. Works would transfer the showa hydraulic preload system to there shock. Now Works incorporates a hydraulic preload on there rear shocks.

Pete Murray
 

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Pete,

My LT clunks when bottomed out also. I think it is the bottom of the fairing under the headlight hitting my fender, as my fender has broken and you can see a rub mark on the fender shaped like the fairing under the headlight. I was hoping that replacing the front shock would stop that, but it hasn't.
 

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Tim thanks for the response. The noise or clunk I get is at the beginning of shock compression after rebound top out. Example front wheel goes over pot hole suspension tops out , when the suspension starts to take the Hit I here the clunk and the front feels loose. I think your problem is due to your front shock bottoming out. One problem with the stock showa front shock is the bottom out rubber bumper compresses to extremes with metal to metal impact. I may recall you posted replacing your front shock with OEM.

Pete Murray AKA PeteM
 

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I had a clunk like what you describe. The bolt at the lower end of the shock was not tightened fully.
 

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mneblett said:
Have you verified the bearing at the top is ok (the one under the steering head that ties to the top of the forks to the top peak of the main frame backbone)? Wear here could result in fore/aft movement of the wheel.

Mark, I know you know this... remember that the LT telelever is NOT like the other telelevers. There isn't ONE bearing under the 'steering head'

The "steering head" is the tube of the frame that the steering bearings are pressed into. The LT has two bearings preloaded in the steering head just like a "normal" bike. There's also one ball-joint atop each fork leg.

But your point is correct, if the steering neck bearing preload is loose the fork will move...in all directions!
 

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Paul thanks for the feedback . If you read the original post I indicated the top and bottom shock mounts are tight.

Pete Murray
 

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cyclecamper said:
Mark, I know you know this... remember that the LT telelever is NOT like the other telelevers. There isn't ONE bearing under the 'steering head'

The "steering head" is the tube of the frame that the steering bearings are pressed into. The LT has two bearings preloaded in the steering head just like a "normal" bike. There's also one ball-joint atop each fork leg.

But your point is correct, if the steering neck bearing preload is loose the fork will move...in all directions!
Close, but no cigar, Greg :)

See pages 31.5 and 31.8 of the Repair manual.

There is only a single bearing at the top of the forks -- a large angular-contact ball bearing at the center of the triple tree (not a ball joint like on some other telelever bikes, and not two bearings stacked one over the other as in a conventional fork). The ball bearing center element carries a stud that is bolted to the top of the frame.

There are also no ball joints at the top of each fork leg -- there are only steel sleeves held in stiff rubber mounts press-fit into the triple tree on each side (the "pot-type joint" 3 shown in the figures).

The rubber joints are needed to provide flexibility to accommodate fore-aft fork movement as the telelever moves through its range of movement, since the ball bearing, unlike a ball joint, can't pivot to let the triple tree pivot the few degrees required. .
 

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ltcanup said:
Take your front fender off b 4 you do anything expensive.Mine was clunking and found out the fender was cracked
Yep, I also had the stock front fender crack along the bottom edge where the painted part meets the black part. I heard it clunking over bumps, and eventually figured out it was the fender. I replaced the fender with one off an R1150RT (cop bike) I got off eBay. It fits fine and also covers the lower fork legs.
 

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Update

The Telelever does not display free play at the frame. The Front shock top mount bushings are somewhat sacked out. Before removing the F shock I tested top mount for free play results no free play. Front shock seal starting to weep (Works) 46,000 on shock way overdue for rebuild. Will continue to look for for aft free play.

Pete Murray
 

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Problem Solved

After comprehensive evaluation of all front end parts I found the problem. The lower shock mount was the culprit. Specifically the clearance of the lower shock bolt to shock bushings was excessive. I found with the front wheel suspended when lifting the the front wheel up the telelever arm would raise and the shock would not move. My Works shock will go out for rebuild. I will also send works a new lower shock bolt so they can properly supply the bushings. I will request a press fit of the bolt through the shock bushing's front fender was cracked on both sides on top but secure. The underside fender tip was worn from tire rubbing. Thanks for the help.

Pete Murray





















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