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Does the K engine need TB ajustments ?? I have a Twin Max from my RT and If I don't need it I will sell it .
Mike
 

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And here I thought Tuberculosis had been eradicated...:eek:

Just messing with you Man...:D
 

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Na, TB is alive and well all over the world - mostly in institutions in North America (prisons, Nursing homes, etc).

But for the LT, I've heard of folks that're chronic tweekers (oops, another pun!) synchronizing the LT's throttle bodies - but, it's not a 'normal' thing most of us do.

Though, if I had a synchronizer, I'd do it - hey, I got me a gold plated screwdriver too!
 

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Zotter said:
Na, TB is alive and well all over the world - mostly in institutions in North America (prisons, Nursing homes, etc).
All the places I don't want to live in...:rolleyes:
 

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mos said:
I get it ....Throttle Bodies ....so what the answer ??
No personal experience here. However, those that have synched everything claim the 45-50K RPM buzz is eliminated. I would like to do mine but my carb stix broke years ago and I have not had a real need to replace em.

How would the Twin Max work. You can only do 2 at a time is that correct? Then I guess doing various combinations of 2 until you've compared all should work fine.

Let us know if you do it.
 

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cfell said:
John... hook 'em all to the same gauge.. through T fittings, then pinch the hoses so you read only one port at a time..
That's a good way to do it, thanks.

Also, please ignore my 45000 to 50000 rpm comment in the previous post.:D
 

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grifscoots said:
Number four is your control baseline, it doesn't adjust. You adjust the other three to #4.
You know, that makes even more sense if using the twin max unit. You would just connect with t's and inline shutoffs for 1-3 then have the twin max make it's comparisons between each isolated cylinder to #4.

I like it - think I'll order. 36k service is coming up.

Is it true the 4.5k buzz goes away?
 

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I'm curious about this too. It is not mentioned in the Clymer manual for my '02. I have lost track how many multi-carb bikes I have synch'ed but when I mentioned this to my local BMW dealer (a guy who has been there 30 years) he said they don't do it unless someone has screwed it up, because otherwise, they are never off.

I didn't argue with him but that is idiotic. If they are adjustable then manufacturing tolerances alone (not to mention typical wear) leaves plenty of opportunity for them to be off enough to affect throttle response, which is how mine acts. I realize beemers are known for abrupt injection response. This will feel worse if throttle synch is off much.

I haven't researched this enough to know if the '02 actually has multiple throttle valves (butterflies). If it only has one (typical automotive style) then the point is moot but I expect the dealer would have said that instead of the smoke he spewed. Anyone know the real deal before I dig deeper?
 

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I have not done this on my LT but have synched the TB's on my K100 after replacing the TB mounts. Like Griff stated one of them is non adjustable and used as a baseline for the other three. The biggest problem is getting the locknuts tight without changing the settings. Mine were not off that far even after 20+ years of operation. My 85 K still has the 4500 RPM buzz.

Roy

P.S. While you are doing this check the rubber caps on the vacuum ports. They have tendancy to get brittle and crack causing vacuum leaks.
 

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I have done this and it does make a difference, it did not eliminate the 4500 RPM buzz but it did lessen it and it idles and runs at low speeds much better. Grif is correct you adjust 1,2 and 3 to balance with #4 and I found mine to be signifigantly out of adjustment, once completed it makes a noticeable improvement. I will add that I have been doing motorcyle maintenance since 1972 and I have found that even when checking this routinely it usually needs minor adjustment each time so the tech that says it does not need to be done may need some adjusting himself.

I have a CARBTUNE synching tool which utilizes 4 tubes each with a stainless steel rod in it. It is an accurate and durable gauge but others are available the only one I would not recommend using is a set of mercury sticks, true they have been around for years and many have used them successfully but they can be a pain because of the mercury. Should you choose to use them perhaps because they are relatively inexpensive I would recomend that you do not blip the throttle as you may siphon the mercury into the engine.

I did mine while doing a major service and in my humble opinion it is best done only while the fuel tank is loose and can be raised up, also it is very helpful to have the air cleaner off to aid in getting access to the lock nuts on the adjusters. If you have not done one of these previously then go slowly make your adjustments in very small increments followed by locking the locknut then blip the throttle a couple of times lightly and let it settle down before reading the gauge, once you think you have it done shut it down and let it set for a few minutes, start it up and check the final adjustment again before reinsatlling the air cleaner or other pieces that have been removed.
 

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Thanks a lot for the confirmations and tips, guys. I've been using my old carb stix for about 35 years so I'm familiar with their pitfalls. I can't believe I haven't broken them or lost the mercury (or sucked it into the intake, as you warned). The surgical tubing has not been as fortunate. Thanks again.
 

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Go to Hall of Wisdom, Maintenance, (h) fuel system, #5
 

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I did the adjustment in an afternoon with some help of my old man, and it idles a little smoother and the 4500 buzz is still there. It did not make a huge difference in mine, but mine were also somewhat close to begin with. I will probably check it again in another 20K miles or so.

And as far as the TB thing goes, the last time the military doctors checked my skin reaction of that TB test shot, it was positive. unfortunately TB does still exist very strong other countries.
 
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