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Discussion Starter #1
Any words of wisdom?

I'm undressing my 2000 for the first time tomorrow. I've got the Clymer book and reviewed it. I've got the tools.

I'm attemting to get a CB installed (Midland 75-822) and trying to locate the connections under the stingray.

Is is there anything else I could be doing while I have her clothes off,? Any advise to help me avoid doing something stupid?

Thanks in advance,

Kimble
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If the bike is new to you I may change the air filter, gas filter, spark plugs and look at what else should be changed when you have the skin off. It all depends on what maint. has been done.

Another item to remember is that the screws are different lengths so you need to keep them straight. You may want to put a small dab of color on the end of each one depending on the length so you put the right ones back in the right holes.

A small dab of white out works well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good pointer on the white out!

Will do. She's due for the 36K check. I'll take a look and see if there's any thing I can do.

Thanks,

Kimble
 

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Print one of these and use it for the re-assembly.
 

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KJN said:
Good pointer on the white out!

Will do. She's due for the 36K check. I'll take a look and see if there's any thing I can do.

Thanks,

Kimble
A few thoughts:

Keep the screws for each panel in ziplok bags, and either keep them with their panel, or put a name tag inside each bag.

When reinstalling the screws, make sure they are properly aligned and started by finger before putting a tool to them -- the screws are relatively soft and when cross-threaded, deform easily. One of my early purchases was a 5mm x 0.8 pitch die and a corresponding tap to chase/save threads.

You'll need a T25 Torx for most of the screws, and a 3mm Allen for the screws under the tip over wing covers unless the PO replaced the 3 mm Allen screws with T25's. Also, a Phillips screwdriver for the front turn signal lens screws.

Suggestion: I found that a T25 1/4" drive bit on an electric screwdriver to be worth its weight in Gold for wrist-fatigue elimination.


One of the first panels to remove is the small cover under the oddments compartment lock -- once its screws are out slide it *down* an inch or so before lifting it off the bike to avoid breaking off the small tabs underneath.

The mirrors have to be popped off to get the clear wings off -- you can remove the three screws holding the wings on, but the wing's base (actooly, tops) won't drop down clear of the bottom of the mirror with the mirror present.

The radio stingray has three (or more) connectors under the left lower edge of the dashboard. Once all six screws are out of the stingray, you will be able to lift slightly at the rear of the unit and pull it back an inch or two. You then will have finger access to the connectors to push in their locking tabs and separate the stingray from the bike.

Putting the stingray back on can be a major pita, particularly the two screws closest to the centerline at the front -- getting at least three semi-warped panels to come together in a way that lets you get the screw down into the zip-nut below can be a challenge. Bow to the LT gods, go slow and doesn't get frustrated and force things. If necessary, stick an ice pick down the hole to insert its tip into the zipnut to drap the zipnut sidewwys to the right location to receive the screw (the zipnuts have no lateral locating features, so they are easily knocked out of place).

As you put the stingray back (or after, before you tighten it all down) push/pull the rubber bib around the fuel filler tray back into place behind the fuel lid so that the lid will properly close -- also pull the rubber fuel cap holder post back out from under the front edge of the stingray panel.

With reasonable mechanical ability, you can do all of the maintenance, including valve clearance checks (and maybe even valve bucket replacements) yourself -- the real question is whether you are comfortable with this, or whether there's another experienced LT'er nearby to watch over/help you.

FWIW, because its a minor pita to remove the fuel tank to get aceess to the air filter, unless I was also going in to replace the fuel filter (which, by BTW, is currently due if you are at 36K if memory serves) I wouldn't do it. If you decide to do either undertank filter, be aware that the seat frame that straddles the tank can be a *major* pita to reinstall because the earliest bikes had seat frames that were ***just*** a hair off -- enough that the left rear leg of the seat frame wouldn't line up. If you have one of these, you need to put the left rear bolt in first, then walk/twist/threaten the remaining bolts. The changeover to a slightly better fitting (but still a pita) seat frame occurred in mid-2000, so I can't tell from here whether this will be an issue for you.

There's quite a few more comments on tank removal and replacement to pass on, but time is short at the moment -- I'll be happy to pass them on if you respond that you do intend to remove the tank.

When you get to the tranny gear oil replacement, the drain (a 14 mm Allen -- big sucker) is directly above a muffler support bracket which must be removed to get to the plug. The center stand is also directly below the drain, so you'll need a ramp to divert the oil to your drain container -- I used a folded/creased piece of old box top -- simple, effective and cheap (just like me! :D)

For perhaps obvious reasons, before removing the drain plug, make sure that you've broken the fill plug loose. To get to the tranny filler plug, remove the three Allen bolts holding the footpeg plate to the frame (6mm ?? Allen), Beware of two things as you swing the plate upward/rearward out of the way: (i) the rear brake master cylinder hose is *very* short and relatively inflexible -- I don't rotate the plate upwards (not outwards) more than 70-80 degress; and (ii) you should put something between the plat and the bike to prevent scratches. I usually tied-off/held the plate out of the way with a couple long zipties chained between the plate and the bike's rear frame.

Sorry, need to go now -- will try to add more later -- post Qs if you got 'em!

HTH,
 

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good luck on the panels, another thought is to place two stripes of duct tape sticky side up, mark on left and one right, then you have the option of placing the screws on the tape from front to back and a row under for the botton ones..also i always lay my panels on a blanket so not to ding the corners....also this would be an awsome time to put teathers on your mirrors, on 3 occasion 2 on my 03 and once on my 07 ive hit potholes or road garbage that has poped the mirror off....good luck matthew
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You guys are great. I will do all of the above.

Thanks again,

Kimble
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks to all!

All went well. I'm no longer afraid.

Now I need to figure out how to fabricate an adapter for the 7pin plug under the stingray to get this CB to work with the ComSystem.

The cable/adapter must be made of unobtainium.

Kimble
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KJN said:
Thanks to all!

All went well. I'm no longer afraid.

Now I need to figure out how to fabricate an adapter for the 7pin plug under the stingray to get this CB to work with the ComSystem.

The cable/adapter must be made of unobtainium.

Kimble
Phoenix
PM me. I just took mine out. I hooked up an Icom for bike to bike. Do not need the CB connections. The harness has a 2.5/3.5mm connection for the audio/ptt and a battery/antenna connection that slides on the bottom of the unit. All you'll have to wire is the antenna.

picture is here...http://www.bmwlt.com/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1647/cat/10/date/1235946976
 
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