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Discussion Starter #1
What kind of Redline Synthic oil do I use the transmission and final drive? I have 6k coming up
 

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I use 75/90 redline gear oil, both in the gearbox and the final drive. I chose to wait til the 12k...just gives it a little better break in IMHO.
 

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Rear Drive Oil

I run Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90 (GL-5) gear oil as recommended in the Paul Sayegh service videos since 6K miles (at 42K now). I do a rear drive oil change with every engine oil change (6K instead of 12K as recommended) and the transmission at 12K per BMW recommendation. Dont' be shocked if your first 6K change looks pretty bad (black color and with a lot of debris on the magnet)! This is pretty typical. Mine was that way and I freaked out, what with all the rear drive failure talk. Started the 6K change so I could keep an eye on things. The drive oil has looked great ever since I started the 6K cycle (still amber and clear). It only takes 230 cc of oil (less than a 1/4 of a quart) so I recommend changing every 6K since one quart will make 4 changes! At $7-9 quart, that seems like real cheap insurance to me.
 

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Tranny and rear end oil change

old1951 said:
I run Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90 (GL-5) gear oil as recommended in the Paul Sayegh service videos since 6K miles (at 42K now). I do a rear drive oil change with every engine oil change (6K instead of 12K as recommended) and the transmission at 12K per BMW recommendation. Dont' be shocked if your first 6K change looks pretty bad (black color and with a lot of debris on the magnet)! This is pretty typical. Mine was that way and I freaked out, what with all the rear drive failure talk. Started the 6K change so I could keep an eye on things. The drive oil has looked great ever since I started the 6K cycle (still amber and clear). It only takes 230 cc of oil (less than a 1/4 of a quart) so I recommend changing every 6K since one quart will make 4 changes! At $7-9 quart, that seems like real cheap insurance to me.
I happen to change oil in the transmission and rear end every 6k just like the engine oil. Guess what? One quart takes care of the rear and and the tranny with nothing left over. Imagine that!! :D
 

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ok. I have it narrowed down to the Redline oil, but which Redline product? Below is a description of each. I figure that either the 75W/140NS or the Heavy Shockproof would work. But again, which would be better for both the transmission and rear end? I am no oil "expert".

75W140NS
A heavier product what works well over a wide range of loads and temperatures, This GL-5-type gear oil doesn't contain the friction modifiers for limited-slip hypoid differentials. This makes the transmission synchronizers come to equal speeds more quickly, allowing faster shifting and much easier low-temperature shifting. Can also be used in racing limited-slip differentials where weak spring design causes too much wheel spin.


Heavy ShockProof
A unique lubricant containing a suspension of solid microscopic particles as an extreme pressure agent--unique solid dispersion which cushions gear teeth to help prevent tooth breakage and allows the use of lower viscosities. Recommended for heavily-loaded racing differentials and transmissions, Off Road racing and problem gearboxes. The viscosity characteristics allow the lubricant to resist throwoff and provide a film thickness similar to a 75W250 grade, while providing the same low fluid friction as an SAE 75W90.
 

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Dealer put Redline Shockproof in my LT at 600 miles (per my request) and that is what I have used every since. Both the rear drive and transmission. Just shy of 24000 and have never seen any metal particles or grit of any kind. I also change it at 6000 mile intervals or after very long hauls (cross country runs etc). Change engine oil at 3000 miles intervals

May we never find the end of the road!

oknplm

Perry Ridgway
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Which one

The dealer says it just has to have a GL5 rating. I have some Shock Proof Hvy but there is no rating on the bottle. So should I run 75/140 or Shock Proof Hvy?
 

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I run dino oil. These are ball bearing rear ends. I believe that synthetic may so slick that the balls do not roll properly and eventually fail. I ran mobil 1 for 33000 changing every 5 and it failed. Now Im going to run dino oil and see what happens. I really dont think it matters one bit. it will fail anyway because of poor design. On older models that fail BMW is replacing them with new units with the 19 ball bearing in it. Now thats what I wanted to hear. If I fail this one Im going to drop it from a airplane on you know who
 
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