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Discussion Starter #1
Just want to clarify something back there. After re-assy, torqued everything per the torque schedule:

1. Pivot pins into swingarm @ 118 ft./lb. - check
2. Threaded ring (right) @ 147.5 - check
3. Threaded ring (left) @ 7.4 - check
4. Lock ring @ 118 - check

Problem, when tightening the lock ring properly, the left threaded ring also turns changing the torque reading. Am Did I do something wrong here?
 

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You need

that special tool - a deep 30mm socket with a slot cut in the side so you can put a 12mm allen key through and use that to hold the threaded ring left. David HSealry has a nice picture of a socket he got CNC'd - I just used my trusty angle grinder ;-) It is also helpfull if you can grow another arm when attempting this
 

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Sofitel505 said:
Just want to clarify something back there. After re-assy, torqued everything per the torque schedule:

1. Pivot pins into swingarm @ 118 ft./lb. - check
2. Threaded ring (right) @ 147.5 - check
3. Threaded ring (left) @ 7.4 - check
4. Lock ring @ 118 - check

Problem, when tightening the lock ring properly, the left threaded ring also turns changing the torque reading. Am Did I do something wrong here?
You have to hold the inner part with the 12 MM "Allen" wrench, through the hole in the side of the modified 30 MM socket, to insure it does not turn when tightening the locking ring. Very hard to do without help. I used the screw jack from a Toyota truck, put the allen wrench in place and ran the jack up to just put a little pressure on it, then tightened the lock ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep, that's what I feared. But it didn't dawn on me until too late. Noticed the footpeg vibe after getting it all back together and noticed the shifter nut was now up against the remus pipe. There never was more than about .030" clearance there, but now gone. Hmmm. So I puzzled over this and questioned the torque sequence. Took it apart to get at the threaded rings, loosened them up, retorqued the right side, then realized what probably happened to the 12mm one. Nothing looks damaged or any strange noises, but that part of the bike is now about .030" thinner. Oooops. Looks like I get to modify a 30mm socket tonight.
 

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Here is a picture of the one that I had machined. I wanted to remove as little material as possible but I actually need to open this up a little bit towards the bottom. I also cut down the hex key about 3/8".

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That is some nice machining. I can't get close to that at home. I'm going to have to bring in to work and have them put it on the mill.
 
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