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Discussion Starter #1
Evening.........

Well Beryl Beemer is again "just sad to ride"............

The cause is suspension...or lack of...yeahhhh ok I know it, but am limited by budget constraints....which may be somewhat across the board here of the readers......and yes ...I am always on the lookout for a better $$ deal than just saying "change it".

Just so you can guage "where you are" in the swing of things...

Beryl Beemer is a '99 model with 136,000kms on the clock.

The rear shock I changed about 2-3 months ago with a "trike converted" 6 month old unit I purchased from Onions, who painstakingly lives in Melbourne.....(not that that has anything to do with it, just thought there was an opportunity to have a dig at the southerners..hehehehehehh)

The front unit is original and is "woeful".....every last "1/2 pipe" of road repair ha!... that's an oxymoron if ever there was one) is just jawjarring....The dentist here in West Ryde is making a fortune replacing my teeth fillings.....

Sooooooooooooooooooooooooo

The BMW Safari started from Cessnock yesterday, to eventually meander it's way up to the Seaworld or whatever, in the GoldCoast a week later......(another piece of useless information for your "Useless Information" book).

It's just that I met Sir Nils and Lady Billie at the dockside last Thursday when HMS "Spirit of Tasmania" berthed, and piloted them to the Ward Estate. The pot holes in the roads are just wearing me down to a frazzle, and riding this bike should be just sooooooooo more pleasurable.

ok....on to the good stuff.......

Because I am again out of work for the last two weeks....I am able to visit the outter convict settlements of Penrith, New South Wales, where for some strange reason all the suspension kids seem to hang out.

There are a couple of "reknown" companies here at Penrith namely "Shock treatment" seen here at http://www.shocktreatment.com.au and another called "Teknik", seen here at http://www.teknikmotorsport.com .........both advertise in the monthly "Cycle Torque" magazine, but for some strange reason both do not rebuild BMW shocks.....

"Why is that?" we ask ourselves.....

ok...perhaps we don't ask ourselves that....

But the third bike company at Penrith is "SOS Suspension"..........

"Ding".......

I did try and call this company before setting off for the 40kms ride to Penrith, but no answer....

Found the place....Unit 7, 9-11 Abel Street, Penrith, New South Wales, only after nipping into the major Penrith m/c store and asking directions. The Street directory we have does not have Abel Street listed....I thought a street directory should last at least 30 years....doh!

Aha....found the reason why the phone was not answered....nobody's there.

Left a message to call at home and wandered away.

Sean O'Sullivan called from SOS later in the day, saying he was out road testing a bike, hence no one at home. He's a "one man band" type organisation, located in a business park unit sorta setup.

Sean could not give a definitive quote on the rebuild of my original rear shock (which was in the topbox but now is in the garage of course) until he takes it apart. The shaft needs to be examined he says, to determine if it needs rechroming.

He has all the seals blah blah blah, can fit a new spring blah blah blah, because the Showa OEM may need to be machined open, he does refit machining to be able to reuse the unit...blah blah blah...and generally sets up the rebuilt unit to suit the application.

The front unit he says is a POS....but is able to build a specific unit from a Wilbur standard to suit the needs ...yet again...

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh this sounds all so "brilliant".

I have mentioned to Sean that I am on a budget.....that there are many many K1200LT's out there in Ozland/Kiwiland/Philipinoland blah blah blah that would be interested in what he could provide...

Tomorrow is tennis day...so may have to arrange a meeting with Sean Wednesday to get all the answers....spose I should get some questions sorted first:

How long does it take to rebuild an OEM rear shock?
What modifications can be done to the rear OEM shock at rebuild time?
What information does Sean need to "set up" a OEM rear shock for the rider/pillion?
What is the cost of the basic rebuild?
what is the cost of any modifications, rechroming...?
What can Sean offer in the way of choice for a new front end unit?
What is the cost of this new front end unit?
What is the availability of new front end units?
Is there any mods required to fit one of the new front end units, like the Ohlin grind?

Anything else anyone can think of before Wednesday?

Hopefully I can get my OEM rebuilt to abetter standard than the original, which means that my 6 month old spare one can be reused by someone else whilst their unit is being sorted......


I'll keep you all informed of the progress.


Phill
 

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This might help

G'day Phill

One of the blokes here at work had his '01 shock rebuilt by SOS about 2 years ago. At that time I think it cost him around $500 for the rebuild, don't know what the extent of the build was though, sorry. I do know that he was very happy with the results as he only had to crank the preload to 1/3 hard rather than all the way down, minimal scraping in corners. I'm seriously considering the rebuild myself as when Mrs Dog and I tackle some of the corners in our "roads" we tend to scrape the centre stand without too much trouble.

HTH mate
 

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Discussion Starter #4
big dog said:
G'day Phill
One of the blokes here at work had his '01 shock rebuilt by SOS about 2 years ago. At that time I think it cost him around $500 for the rebuild, don't know what the extent of the build was though, sorry. I do know that he was very happy with the results as he only had to crank the preload to 1/3 hard rather than all the way down, minimal scraping in corners. I'm seriously considering the rebuild myself as when Mrs Dog and I tackle some of the corners in our "roads" we tend to scrape the centre stand without too much trouble.
"one word to cure your ills = Wilbers"...

Yep...I have heard this, along with "Ohlins"...but at $1200 each for a rear unit it is extremely pricey, to one that is out of a job at the mo.

(it is still pricey even for one that is in a job....)

I will be putting forward the "group buy" type of approach (as the USA guys have done a couple of times with ohlins)....but without the actual numbers to
clarify....I would like Sean to be able to provide a cost, below that of "normal purchase price" for those that mention the K12LT web site, blah blah blah.

Sean did say that he would discount for Ulysses members so he knows that good business can be spread by word of mouth, or email.

Dezrae said he will be looking shortly to change his units, Chris Paine has this on his schedule to do, Big Dog says he will be going down this path....there must be many others (not just in Oz but NZ, maybe even some of the USA guys may want to jump in if the price is right, considering the $US to $A rate)with lame ducks like Beryl going around corners like a 3 point turn.

cheers


Phill

'78 XS1100E "The Tardis" (ret)
'99 K1200LT "Beryl Beemer"
 

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PhillWard said:
Evening.........
What is the cost of this new front end unit?
What is the availability of new front end units?
Is there any mods required to fit one of the new front end units, like the Ohlin grind?

Phill

I think the grind was only for convienence , I replaced my front with a taller than stock wilber and there was no need to grind anything. in fact it was a easy swap ifyou strap down the front forks take your rear wheel off and raise that front end up
 

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PhillWard said:
"one word to cure your ills = Wilbers"...

Yep...I have heard this, along with "Ohlins"...but at $1200 each for a rear unit it is extremely pricey, to one that is out of a job at the mo.

(it is still pricey even for one that is in a job....)



Phill

'78 XS1100E "The Tardis" (ret)
'99 K1200LT "Beryl Beemer"
1200 for the rear only? wow, that is high, then again I have no idea of the costs of living over wonder <g>

I have right at 1500usd in my front and rear Wilbers with all the goodies and then some,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wilbers and Ohlins supplier/service agent.

Morning/Evening....

ok some info back from my "SOS Suspension" expedition out to sunny Penrith...(8 deg C above average yesterday...= 33 deg C...April being middle month of Autumn here in the great southern land)


Q1 "how long does it take to rebuild an OEM rear shock?"
A1 Anything from 3 days to 2 weeks depending upon the need to rechrome parts on OEM rear unit.

Q2 "What mods can be done to an OEM rear at rebuild time?"
A2 New heavier spring fitted if needed, new seal head machined and fitted to make OEM rear rebuildable. A new seal head in the unit allows Sean to use other manufacturers seals, such as Honda, due to no supply from BMW?Showa. Small gas valve fitted to enable regassing.

Q3 "What information does Sean need to know in order to set up unit for individual?"
A3 Rider weight, rider able to flat foot bike, has the OEM unit bottomed out at all, pillion, luggage weights, trailer usage at all, normal preload positioning where rider uses...

Q4 "What is the cost of the basic OEM rear rebuild?"
A4 About $A250

Q5 "What is the cost of rechroming OEM Rear?"
A5 $A95 for the outer shroud which gets scratched/burred on higher kms bikes, forgot to get cost for the internal chrome shaft.

Q6 "What can Sean offer in the way of alternative front end units?"
A6 The OEM front unit is more akin to a glorified flyscreen door closer. Sean mentioned that he has cut these things apart to see if anything can be savaged/modified but no can do. He is however a Wilbers and Ohlins authorised servicer/supplier of these units....Hmmmmmmm interesting.

Q7 "What is the cost of a new Wilbers front or rear unit?"
A7 $A950 plus GST (10%)....Funnily enough the cost of a new OEM rear is $A950. The rear Wilbers can be made (Sean said that he makes up the units to suit the rider from parts supplied by Wilbers or Ohlins. He does not have complete units on the shelf ready to go) with some added gizmos, but come at an extra cost..
...ride height adjuster...$A950 basic plus $A140, plus GST
...low/high speed compression adjuster...$A950 basic plus $A450, plus GST
...hydraulic pre load adjuster for rear...$A950 basic plus $A460, plus GST

The front unit has no room for a hydraulic pre load adjuster of course, with the front Wilbers being the basic $A950 plus GST.

Q8 "What is the lead time to getting a new Wilbers unit?"
A8 About 4 weeks. Sean gets a delivery of parts from Germany once a month, hence the 4 week turnaround. Sean requires about 15-20% deposit when you order a unit.

Q9 "What warranty is provided, and what does the warranty cover?"
A9 5 years on the Wilbers and 2 years on the Ohlins. Sean will replace free of charge any seals that develope a leak in that time. I presume this also applies to the 80ml of oil and nitrogen gas.

Q10 "Any discount offered?"
A10 10% on his labour charges to all Ulysses members (Oz club for people who have an interest in motorcycles, aged over 50), seen here at http://www.ulyssesclub.org/Default.asp and 20% on his labour charges to bike shops. However, Sean mentioned that if I can get some numbers together, then he would do the 20% discount for us, on his labour costs only of course. His labour costs to build a unit is about $A150, so we get a $A30 saving each. Numbers being say 4 units at a time which he can then get a small production line going to do the four at once rather than one here one there etc etc.

I have now ordered my new front end Wilbers, (and paid a deposit), plus giving my original OEM rear shock to be rebuilt...dah dah!

Please take this info in the spirit of what it is intended....merely trying to get a better deal/solution for us Oz/NZ/Asia Pacific KLT riders. Prices may change due to conditions beyond Sean's control, but hopefully later, and not sooner.

Sean can also rebuild (reluctantly) steering dampers, but says the OEM damper material is quite poor and advises as such. He also does a lot of vintage stuff (Koni's) when I mentioned I still have my XS1100, upstairs in the attic, ...not that I need new rear shocks on the furniture item.....hehehhe

Unfortunately Sean neither has a web address or email address that we can contact him by (he has seen his mate who runs "S&R Pro" turbo kits for motor cycles, http://www.sandrpro.com/ spend nearly all his waking time answering emails and requests from people to his site, a lot of those being non profitable customers ("time wasters" I think was the quote)....and Sean doesn't want to get tied down by things of this nature, he's just happy to get business by word of mouth, doesn't advertise, and enjoys doing what he does best here.

Sean does have a work phone, (02) 4732 5533, Fax: (02) 4721 5277 and mobile: 0412 245 176


cheers

Phill
'78XS1100E "The Tardis" (ret)
'99K1200LT "Beryl Beemer"
 

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Phil,
There is a few places round that rebuild LT supensions. I went thru this same very excercise a few weeks ago on my days off.
I called a company called "BM MOTORCYCLES" 03-9870-3807, in Ringwood and picked thier brain. They farm the shocks out to another company.they said the front shocks are not worth re-building and new front shock is $400.
I forgot who they sent the shocks to, but i did get the number off the salesman (and i managed to loose that bit of paper, yeah i know im bloody hopeless) and they company they put me on to for the rear shock rebuild said a few days turn around and from memory it was close to the $900 mark as well.
 

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Thanks Phill......

for that information. Now I can go to SWMBO and negotiate (read beg, down on knees, pleading) getting the rear shock done. At least I can give her some figures so she can budget for it (read take it out of my pocket money ;) ).

Ah well, the joys of married life :abduct:

Ride safe all.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dezrae said:
Phil,
There is a few places round that rebuild LT supensions. I went thru this same very excercise a few weeks ago on my days off.
I called a company called "BM MOTORCYCLES" 03-9870-3807, in Ringwood and picked thier brain. They farm the shocks out to another company.they said the front shocks are not worth re-building and new front shock is $400.
I forgot who they sent the shocks to, but i did get the number off the salesman (and i managed to loose that bit of paper, yeah i know im bloody hopeless) and they company they put me on to for the rear shock rebuild said a few days turn around and from memory it was close to the $900 mark as well.
Hi Dezrae,
"BM Motorcycles"????...Melbourne company (now how did I fathom that out??) one of the advantages of living in "THE" best city in Oz is that we only have to travel 50kms in either direction to get somewhere..hehehhe Melbourne is a wee bit further....but seeing you live wayyyyyyyyyyyyy up north in AlaskaTownsville, anywhere within 1000kms I expect you call close??? hehehheheh...

"BM farm shocks out", so they would add something onto their prices...."new front shock is $400"..??????? is this one made by "B & D doors?"....

A year or two after Beryl came to live with us the dealer quoted about $360 for a front and about $600 for a rear....seeing as the rear is now $950 I woulda expected the front to be a bit more than the $400...I'll ask next time.

"rear shock rebuild....and from memory was close to the $900 mark"....gee they know how to charge for a rebuild up north...or was that down south??? ...what a load of bandits you have there, no wonder they all got transported from pommyland??? hehehhehe

cheers

Phill
 

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Phil said ".but seeing you live wayyyyyyyyyyyyy up north in AlaskaTownsville, anywhere within 1000kms I expect you call close??? hehehheheh..."



Phil,
yes you are correct. Mt Isa, where i grew up (thankfully wasnt born there) is but a mere days ride away approx 900 kilomters.
See up here, we dont measure distance by kilometers, we measure it in days travelling or how many hours it takes to get somewhere.

C'mon now, i know Townsvlle is way up North, but Alaska??? ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Finally....New Wilbur shock to the front...(long)

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh, finally, the weather on the weekend here in Sydney is good enough to spend two days out the front of the house pulling Beryl Beemer apart.

Got my new Wilbur front shock, and my rebuilt, regassed rear shock back from "SOS Suspension" the other week....just needed some dry time to do the wrenching stuff.

For you guys out there that have the use of a garage, you just dunno how lucky in life you are.

Me???? yep I have a garage, but SWMO has a written off vehicle in there (been there for about the last 6 years), whilst I have a slither of space alongside....too narrow to even get Beryl up on the centre stand.

Sooooooooooo as per DR Major's write up on installing the Wilburs, things went pretty much as expected.

Pre starting the job I bought a 2kw heat gun ($A39:99), a 21mm combo spanner about 300mm long ($A13:99), threadlocker red locktite ($A8:99), all from SuperCheap Auto, and a 7mm hex/socket attachment from Repco for $A8:40.

SuperCheap was advertising a 20% sale, but when I took these to the cash register the sale was only related to some obscure items...talk about being ripped off hehhehehehehheheh. If you are contemplating this job in the future get the tools in the sales times....I couldn't find anyone that had a 7mm allen key either in a small kit or singular. They had em in kits priced at $A30, which of course included about 30 other allen keys I didn't want. Eventually looked a bit harder at the write up and the guy was using a 7mm hex/socket attachment. This proved to be a much better tool than what I would imagine the allen key would have been.

So now I have some more tools in my Tim Allen toolbox.....you can never have too many tools...

Pulled the tupperware, removed the rear shock first, all pretty standard and documented in a write up I have done previously.

Now on to the front shock...and to forging new frontiers.

The heat gun worked a treat on the ball joint, as did the hex/socket and 21mm combo spanner. perfect.

There are a couple of things in the DR Major write up that I probably would amend.

The top nut holding the front shock needs a ring spanner to get undone. The thick rubber weatherproof seal around the steering head is too close to get a socket on. I forgot to measure exactly what size this nut is, and did not have a metric ring spanner to suit. Luckily I had a imperial sized ring spanner that fitted, of size 3/8BS 5/16W. I started to turn the top nut but saw (after marking the threads) that the stud itself was turning. There is a 5mm hex opening (similar to the ball joint stud) so that an allen key can be used as a "breaker bar" whilst the nut is being rotated. Unfortunately because of the tough rubber seal above this stud I had to cut down a 5mm allen key so that just enough of the right angled part of the key was able to be slipped in.

In the DR Major doco, right at the end, he gives a suggestion of using a rag/cloth over/around the air filter gear before removal of this top nut and rubber donut that is underneath. This suggestion is of course on another page to what one is reading step by step instructions.

To me this is somewhere akin to the bomb disposal manual which says "cut the red and blue wires to the detonator...................../.........." then on the next page wayyyyyyyyy down south it says "make sure you cut the red wire first to avoid detonation"

AAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGgggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhh yep, you can guess that after the nut and washer were removed the rubber donut jumped off and was grabbed by the rubber magnet right down in this hollow between the frame and airbox stuff........

This is exactly why swear words were invented.

Boring!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ok settle down, breathe in....1...2...3...4...5...breathe out...1...2...3...4...5

Nope...it is still boring!!!!!!!!!!

Why is this rag/cloth suggestion on the last page??...mutter ...mutter.

ok on with getting the original shock out. The lower rubber donut was there as per the doco...talk about making a job hard. This could have been so easily engineered that one does not have to have hands like "Tinkerbell" to do this....

The lower A frame that attaches to the shock was very tight, such that I could not get one free from the other without first resecuring the top stud and using a piece of wood to "persuade" the A frame to release it's grip on the shock.

Back to the missing rubber donut under the airbox housing....In my past life as an electrician I have used "fish wires" to get to things.....this came in handy to retrieve from "somewhere under there" my top rubber donut. The rubber magnet that originally attracted this object down to those darkened depths I left in situ.

Installation of these rubber donuts on the new shock is as equally challenging for TinkerBell as getting them off in the first place.

Note that these rubber donuts are specific in their orientation.

Getting Beryl back together again once the front and rear shock were installed had to wait for another day, as being Winter here, the daylight started to close in, and that could lead to errors. Soooooo, on with the bike cover and finished off the following day.

It's amazing that all the parts seem to take a bit longer to put back on than to take off.

The final price of the front shock was $A962:00, the rebuild of the rear was about $470 including rechroming, plus GST of 10%.

Haven't got around to taking Beryl for a ride as yet but it must be 10 times better than before......surely?????....hehehheheheheh

I'll amend my downloaded copy of DR Majors documentation to include the rag/cloth in the correct step sequence, persuasion technique, ring spanner/hex key for top nut blah blah blah.

cheers

Phill
78 XS1100E "The Tardis" (ret)
99 K1200LT "Beryl Beemer"
 

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There is one thing that can be done that makes future work MUCH easier. Grind out the front of the rectangular tube that protrudes above the Telelever arm. You can grind it down to the top of the weld and not affect the strength of the Telelver at all.That allows the bottom of the shock to slip out much easier.

I removed the large rubber seal, not difficult to do at all. You do have to remove the handlebar covers and the fork bridge cover, and only one screw that holds the rubber part on. That little bit of work allows you plenty of room around the top shock nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
dshealey said:
There is one thing that can be done that makes future work MUCH easier. Grind out the front of the rectangular tube that protrudes above the Telelever arm. You can grind it down to the top of the weld and not affect the strength of the Telelver at all.That allows the bottom of the shock to slip out much easier.

I removed the large rubber seal, not difficult to do at all. You do have to remove the handlebar covers and the fork bridge cover, and only one screw that holds the rubber part on. That little bit of work allows you plenty of room around the top shock nut.
G'day Dave,
I've been wondering when you're gonna be getting back on two wheels....or perhaps you may be thinking to let the gods lie down a little while....has your insurance premium increased at all by wiping out two LT's?? I remember seeing a sad pix of your 1st one, along with an equally sad pix of yourself swathed in bandages and plaster (from memory).......you still have one god on your side .......otherwise you wouldn't be here.....

Yepppp I looked at the grind option on the front A frame part as per one of your early tips on the web site....but then would need some paint (is it steel??) maybe rust protection...blah blah so I trolled along with the TinkerBell solution..........I should be able to remove the plasters later in the week when the nicks and cuts heal up hehehheheheh

The top stud could be a mite shorter and still achieve the same result as the A frame grind, as there would then be a bit more room to get the lower donut off/on....I may do that bit next time.........huh??? .......next time??????....ok, in 6 years time like the OEM shock hehhehehehehhehehe

Didn't have to remove the front mudguard either as per DR Major's doco.....I wondered why he did this...maybe the later model LT has a bigger mudguard than the '99????

Haven't been for any length of ride yet, just back an forth to the tennis courts, but it does feel a lot more stiffer than the OEM. Beryl doesn't sag at all.....sure feels better. Having SWMO on the back probably this weekend if it doesn't snow here in Sydney in the meantime........brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr temps are getting chilly in the evenings.........

cheers

Phill
78 XS1100E "The Tardis" (ret)
99 K1200Lt "Beryl Beemer" with new suspenders........
 

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dshealey said:
There is one thing that can be done that makes future work MUCH easier. Grind out the front of the rectangular tube that protrudes above the Telelever arm. You can grind it down to the top of the weld and not affect the strength of the Telelver at all.That allows the bottom of the shock to slip out much easier.
To all
you don;t need to grind anything or remove the ball joint,
or at least I didn;t have to

strap down your front forks to your lift or whatever your biuke is on, put a jack under the of the engine, remove the mounting for your brake lines unbolt your calipers and raise the bike untill it reaches the top of the fork travel.

the shock will come right out, and there is plenty of room to even install the taller wilbers shocks without grinding or removeing the ball joint, I have done it twice now, Jo watched whil we did it one time

Tom
 

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Put away your grinders!!!

At the Tech Session in Columbus, Ohio last Saturday...we replaced Uncle Rock's shocks. The fact that I helped (watched) Tom remove his Wilburs, I lead the attack on Rock's bike.

NO GRINDING WAS NECESSARY!

Simply follow Tom's (tmgs) procedure, and it's a piece of cake. (Banana cake with a thick Philly-cheese frosting.
)
 

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messenger13 said:
At the Tech Session in Columbus, Ohio last Saturday...we replaced Uncle Rock's shocks. The fact that I helped (watched) Tom remove his Wilburs, I lead the attack on Rock's bike.

NO GRINDING WAS NECESSARY!

Simply follow Tom's (tmgs) procedure, and it's a piece of cake. (Banana cake with a thick Philly-cheese frosting.
)

I got to say it was a pleasure havin Joe help out, made it a quick removal with the added person. particlularly putting that long extension on the top rear shock bolt from the other side of the bike

Thanks Joe

Tom
 

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tmgs said:
To all
you don;t need to grind anything or remove the ball joint,
or at least I didn;t have to

strap down your front forks to your lift or whatever your biuke is on, put a jack under the of the engine, remove the mounting for your brake lines unbolt your calipers and raise the bike untill it reaches the top of the fork travel.

the shock will come right out, and there is plenty of room to even install the taller wilbers shocks without grinding or removeing the ball joint, I have done it twice now, Jo watched whil we did it one time

Tom
Did not work on my LT. Even with the ball joint removed, the Telelever would not go down far enough to allow the bottom of the shock to clear the lip on the opening. Believe me, I tried. Had the rubber donut off the top of the shock, pushed it up as high as it would go, and pulled down as hard as I could on the Telelever, the bottom of the shock still hit the lip, and the shock still had to be compressed a little to get the bottom over the lip. I ground out the front of the lip, the new shock went in much easier, and when I out the originals back in to get the Ohlins rebuilt it was a blessing to have that lip out of the way. Guess there are differences in the shock lengths or Telelevers on various bikes.
 

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dshealey said:
There is one thing that can be done that makes future work MUCH easier. Grind out the front of the rectangular tube that protrudes above the Telelever arm. You can grind it down to the top of the weld and not affect the strength of the Telelver at all.That allows the bottom of the shock to slip out much easier.

I removed the large rubber seal, not difficult to do at all. You do have to remove the handlebar covers and the fork bridge cover, and only one screw that holds the rubber part on. That little bit of work allows you plenty of room around the top shock nut.
hmmm, must have had a bent telever from all the extra operator weight and all the miles

hahahahahahahaaaaaa

<runnin n duckin>

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #20
no need to grind..........the coffee beans??

tmgs said:
<snip>...
strap down your front forks to your lift or whatever your biuke is on, put a jack under the of the engine, remove the mounting for your brake lines unbolt your calipers and raise the bike untill it reaches the top of the fork travel.

the shock will come right out, and there is plenty of room to even install the taller wilbers shocks without grinding or removeing the ball joint, I have done it twice now, Jo watched whil we did it one time

Tom
G'day Tom,
I unfortunately do not have the nicety of a bike lift, or even a garage to work on Beryl Beemer.....just the front driveway in front of the house (is this average or am I the only unlucky sod here??).....I spose I could put some dynabolts in the concrete..............nah....I'd trip over the frigg'n things everyday else.

"remove brake lines, unbolt calipers..." sounds almost 6 of one and 1/2 dozen of the the other....but doing that woulda meant no heat gun, no 21mm ring spanner, no 7mm hex/socket....in my toolbox....<sigh>......need more tools....need more tools......

It's interesting that Dave S could not achieve your method of working, wonder what the difference was????....now if only I could get this front shock in and out without removing all the other stuff...........that would be a worth while exercise.......

cheers

Phill
 
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