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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had my 2008 RT out yesterday for the first time this season. Last rode it 12/18/11, home from the shop for its 18,000 mile service (at 16,686). Was on the trickle charger this winter, and had a full tank of brand new gas to start the trip. Started right up to leave, again at the gas station, again after a short destination stop 60 miles out and again after lunch. Then, 10 miles toward home, at about 70 mph, the engine just stopped. Battery still worked, would turn engine over but wouldn't catch and fire. Wouldn't jump start. Double checked battery cables, kill switch, kickstand and center stand, put it on a charger, and still could not get it to fire. I think I read a similar chain on here from a member on an LA freeway. As the tow truck guy said to me, "Well, you found the middle of nowhere." Computer/fuel sender failure? Thoughts or suggestions before I tow it back to the shop? Thanks.
 

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Fuel Pump Sensor Module. A couple of threads on this forum discuss it. I carry a spare.

-Brian
 

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If you have a FPC problem it should show up on a GS-911 readout. It will read " Fuel pump electronics" Are you using a GS-911 to diagnose this?

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thank you all. I don't have the diagnostic equipment, but at least I'll know what the shop might say. Appreciate your time, and the photo, Steve (I'll pick one up). j
 

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steveaikens said:
Here's a picture of the FPC. This is the new one. The old one was silver and is a known failure point.

Picture lifted from Max BMW.


There are also instructions out there on how to bypass this part in the meantime, wont hurt the fuel pump and keeps ya going when needed.
 

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johnnyray said:
thank you all. I don't have the diagnostic equipment, but at least I'll know what the shop might say. Appreciate your time, and the photo, Steve (I'll pick one up). j
Hope it helps Johnny Ray.

About the bypass. The bypass is a limp home fix, not a permenent fix. It's wise to know how to do it, but only to get home. In this case, probably could have saved you a tow - I think.

Again, this isn't a certain call but it's the most likely culprut.

Let us know how it shakes out for you.
 

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Johnny,
If the shop replaces it there's probably no reason to buy a spare. The new ones are redesigned and don't seem to fail nearly as often as the older ones. By the way, get the old one from the shop. The plug can be used to build the bypass plug that you can find described if you search the site.
 

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It's location isn't the problem. It's piss-poor design and sealant for a M O T O R C Y C L E is. It's like they were designing an umbrella with nothing but a frame...
 

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beech said:
Fuel pump electronic controller, here is some really good information. It is labeled GS but the same problem and information is relevant to the RT.
http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.nvxszdkebklxuaer&pageId=233223
If you make an emergency plug, make one that goes into the three wire feed to the controller and then plugs in where the blue plug goes. Then your power goes on and off with the ignition.
That is an excellent link that I had looked at in the past. For me, I just don't feel like making a bypass cable! The best solution for me is to have some lengths of wire and several splice connectors in my tool kit! This way, if the FPC fails, I would simply unplug the 3-wires black connector from the top of the FPC. Dismount the FPC from the top of the fuel pump, and make a couple of splices with the extra wire and connectors from my tool kit! The correct splice would go from "brown" at the black 3-wire connector to "blue" of the 2-wires going from the FPC to the pump. This is the electrical ground. The other splice would be from the "blue/green stripe" wire of the 3-wire connector to the "yellow". That will get you in business very quickly!

Oh, yeah.....as a precaution, I had visually checked my FPC and made sure that everything is clean and dry. When I put the existing FPC back, I coated the sealing areas with generous amount of silicone RTV to make sure that I have good seals. That blue seal is virtually useless by itself.
 

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PadG, that is what I ment by making an adapter that goes from the three wire connector of the voltage connector to the two wire connector (blue plug). You can cut the receiving have connector out of the bad voltage regulator and use that with the blue connector on the output and no need to buy anything. You just have a small easy to carry device to use or share.
 

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beech said:
PadG, that is what I ment by making an adapter that goes from the three wire connector of the voltage connector to the two wire connector (blue plug). You can cut the receiving have connector out of the bad voltage regulator and use that with the blue connector on the output and no need to buy anything. You just have a small easy to carry device to use or share.
Sorry, but it seem that we have a little miscommunication here. The link that you had provided mentioned making an adapter using connectors from another "dead" FPC. I say, forget the connectors altogether! Two lengths of wire, and 4 splice connector (of your choice), in your tool kit, and that's it. No need to make anything.

When the time come (if the time comes), you will have to remove the FPC anyway, even if you have made an adapter. In my case, you remove the FPC and don't even bother to cut the wires. Just unplug the top black connector and make the splices as I had described.
 
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