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Discussion Starter #1
I am totally kicking myself right now. I was putting the rear wheel on after a tire change and apparently did not get all the bolts lined up right. I began tightenting one of the bolts a few revolutions and it seemed to have tightening up early. After backing it out, I found that the first two threads appear stripped. After trying one of the good bolts in the hole that stripped, it is not wanting to allow the bolt to thread into the hole.

Has anybody else done this and do you have any suggestions?

Should I try to use the stripped bolt again to see about getting it to line up better and eventually work itself through? Do I need to bring it to the shop?

Bummed in River Oaks. .

Thanks in advance for any advice. .
 

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What Bob said. And you might be able to clean up the threads on the old lug with a very fine file, but don't push it. If it doesn't clean up, pitch it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the words of advice gentlemen.


Is running a tap pretty straight-forward? Any gotcha's? I have a set of smaller taps and will need to obtain a larger set and would be glad to do it if it can help solve my problem.

James
 

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2005 K1200LT
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You need an M12 tap and the cheap kit that HF sells has one that will fit on sale for $11.99 right now.

Just pull the wheel off again and line up the tap as you feed it in. Practice on a good hole first if you have not done this alot. Use some oil to lube it and take your time.
Clean the bolt up with the die that is in the same kit and you should be good to go. Let me know if you need a spare bolt as I have some from a spare drive I can drop in the mail.
 

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Just make sure you get the tap perpendicular to the hole you are tapping. Clean out the threads and clean ouit the threads on your lug bolt. A little grease wouldn't hurt the lug bolts. You might be able to get a fairly reasonable set of taps at Harbor Freight or a store like it. Good luck.......... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank ya'll for the advice regarding the tap procedure. I will obtain the set at Harbor Freight tomorrow and will proceed with the operation on the hole and the nut.

Thanks John for the offer. I'll let you know if I need one.

This is one of those lessons I hope not to repeat : )

Thanks again all.

James
 

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2005 K1200LT
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May want to pick up a torque wrench as well if you don't have one. Run them in finger tight first as far as you can and don't forget the spacer ring. First tighten the outer ring of 4 diagonally to 37 ftlbs, then center bolt to 77 ftlbs, followed by the outer to 77 ftlbs.
 

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I have a uneducated question (notice I didn't say DUMB). This thread got me thinking that I need a metric tap and die set. I have a varied assortment of SAE taps and a few dies and handles etc.

I looked at the Harbor Freight catalog and now I am confused. What is the difference between CARBON STEEL and ALLOY STEEL? They have both type sets :confused:

TIA :bmw:
 

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Carbon steel is less corrosion resistant than most alloy steels. It really depends on the alloy that is added. There is obviously a price difference. Both work about equal as taps and dies. I would not do production work with carbon steel but it is fine for occational home use. Just keep it in a dry area.
 

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Thanks again John. I am not a big fan of HF but as you say for occasional home use, it should be OK. I checked the prices at Sears and there is a whopping difference. I am sure one can buy individual (good quality) taps to replace broken ones.
 

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Beemer100
Do yourself a big favor and go to a reputable machine supply house to buy this tap. You are chasing the threads in your crown gear. This crown gear is made out of a good grade of steel. The taps from HF are not, I repeat ARE NOT a better grade of steel nor are they heat treated appropriately. Not to metion the machine work to make them is definitely sub par. Take a good look at the grinding for the flutes and notice the burrs on the edges. So if you buy good quality taps they will cut easier, cleaner, and more precise with less energy or effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay, I have repaired the lug nut but have not yet tapped the hole, mostly for fear of going in at a not- perfectly- perpendicular angle.

If I begin tapping the hole, does it then require me to continue tapping to the end or am I able to just go a few threads and stop? The type of tap I have is one where the tip is tapered.
If I am able to just go a few threads and stop, what is the likelihood that my thread pattern will match the existing pattern?

Sorry for the beginners questions and appreciate your help.

James
 

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James,

If you are using a tapered tap you should run it through to the fully cut threads. The taper allows you to get it started and as the taper increases, you get into deeper threads. Since you are just chasing threads that have already been cut, you should not have a problem. Just keep the tap straight and aligned and don't cross thread it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sweet success gentlemen! The bolt and holes have now been fixed. Thanks so much for your help!!!

Being the nervous nellie that I am, I want to inquire with one more question. When I was working with the hole this afternoon , I used the air compressor to try to "flush" out some thread debris material in the hole. My question is what if some debris flew in the back open area where the crown (?) gear is? Do I have a potential problem on my hands with the FD?

By the way, this afternoon I did decide to obtain a different tap than the HF set I got this morning. Comparing the two, their is a noticeable difference in the sharpness of the teeth. This sharper tap did a great job.

Best Regards,
James Hart
 

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That area of the crown gear is sealed with an aluminum insert. The loose bits won't cause any problems there.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
jzeiler said:
That area of the crown gear is sealed with an aluminum insert. The loose bits won't cause any problems there.

Thanks so much John!

James
 

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rattler50 said:
Just make sure you get the tap perpendicular to the hole you are tapping. Clean out the threads and clean ouit the threads on your lug bolt. A little grease wouldn't hurt the lug bolts. You might be able to get a fairly reasonable set of taps at Harbor Freight or a store like it. Good luck.......... :D
Not quite sure about the grease! Best to check around first...
 

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1dbweldor said:
Beemer100
Do yourself a big favor and go to a reputable machine supply house to buy this tap. You are chasing the threads in your crown gear. This crown gear is made out of a good grade of steel. The taps from HF are not, I repeat ARE NOT a better grade of steel nor are they heat treated appropriately. Not to metion the machine work to make them is definitely sub par. Take a good look at the grinding for the flutes and notice the burrs on the edges. So if you buy good quality taps they will cut easier, cleaner, and more precise with less energy or effort.

+++++++++1

Somehow, "occasional use" became an excuse to accept sub-par performance in tools.

If you only ride your bike occasionally, would you buy Cheng Shin tires for it?

Same difference.
 

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Boatzo said:
I have a uneducated question (notice I didn't say DUMB). This thread got me thinking that I need a metric tap and die set. I have a varied assortment of SAE taps and a few dies and handles etc.

I looked at the Harbor Freight catalog and now I am confused. What is the difference between CARBON STEEL and ALLOY STEEL? They have both type sets :confused:

TIA :bmw:
Carbon Steel is just plain steel with a high carbon content to make it hardenable. Alloy Steel should have other elements in it, such as molybdenum, vanadium, chromium, etc. However, these are both pretty cheap sets, so would really like to have either. GOOD taps and dies are always HIGH SPEED STEEL, and really good ones have ground threads. These however are very expensive. I have lots of nice high speed inch taps and dies, but have never been able to afford good metric ones. I have one set of the cheap carbon steel ones, good for nothing but cleaning up slightly damaged threads, and do not even to a great job of that. I have another set of Titanium Nitride coated ones, but they are still pretty cheap, and again really only good for cleaning up damaged threads.

If I need to thread a part that is unthreaded, I buy a good high speed tap or die as needed. Sometimes from eBay, or if needed quick from McMaster Carr.
 
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