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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a semi-constant whirring noise that I can feel in the pegs. Occurs at speed in all gears and when I coast with the clutch in. Doesn't occur if I'm not moving. Any ideas where to start looking?
 

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Tires..

How many miles do you have on them, what do you inflate them to, what make?

Consensus here is you should run 42 Front, 48 Rear.
 

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Is almost all the time from the front tire, from "cupping" of the profile. Is on ME 880 after short time of usage, is a howling noise and even more in curves.
No reason to worry, keep on going.

Manfred
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I discovered the problem today on the way in to work (working 3-11 currently). It was the rear ABS system!!

It acted like the wheel was falling off at 80mph!!!

Now the question is, since I'm fairly confident (based on my conversations with Vern during my fuel system issues) that I am not capable of working on this myself, what's the damage going to be? It doesn't look good at all...leaking fluid from what looks to be the "casing" going to the rear wheel though I couldn't really discover precisely where...it could still be the caliper I suppose, which is covered in fluid.

This is my only real source of transportation and because of Vern's enthusiasm to have the ABS system looked at I was planning to do the 60k and all of that, literally, this week (2 months on the job, had the cash, had the time, could work from home, etc.) and of course this happens a week early and on a Monday to boot! Not sure my local Yamaha shop, who I prefer to do business with over virtually anyone else in the world, is capable of working on it either...or even doing the 60k mile work...

Well anyway, enough of my crying, just tell me how bad it's likely to hurt...
 

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With leaking fluid you likely have a final drive failure. Probably cheapest to get a used one and pay to have it installed. Is the rear tire wobbling? What color is the fluid? Is your ABS light on?
 

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+3 on a failed rear drive crown wheel bearing. You asked for the pain part so here goes.

Dealer replace the rear drive = $1543 for the new drive and $200+ to replace it. You didn't mention what year that can affect the outcome.

You pull the rear drive (instructions found here on the site) and ship it off to one our members that repairs rear drives. = $400 or so + cost of shipping.

There are a few shops that will rebuild them but I have no idea what they charge.

The second option is all based on the fact you have not driven it too much since the noise started and there is not additional damage to the drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It COULD be wobbling - it felt like it was but I was doing 80 when everything went to hell. The ABS lights came on then as well. I also rode it another 5 miles (the rest of the way to work), and gave myself plenty of breaking time.

The fluid is clearish...what I would expect brake fluid to look like after running over dirty parts.
 

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Brake fluid is a very thin fluid when compared to rear drive oil. If you rub brake fluid between you fingers you will not have that slippery oily feel, the read drive fluid is quite thick. You really can't tell from color alone as there are various colors of rear drive oil.

One way you could verify if it is rear drive is to take out the filler plug and dip a cloth into the hole and compare with whatever is dripping. At least then you would know which fluid it is.

HTH ask away. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Oh boy... it's an '01 - what years are compatable? Not that I have $1500 lying around (and, again, it's my only real form of transportation so I don't have a lot of time for shipping it around the country...but what am I saying, the dealer is going to take a week at least!)

It probably has at least 200 miles on it since the VERY first noises - because it didn't start off bad at all and I was "going to get around to looking at it".

Just to eliminate it being the breaks (I'm not sure how they are tied into the final drive, as I had never heard of a final drive until I got this bike): the rear brake did go to the ground on the way in, and just before everything went nuts. The rotar is pretty well worn back there as well.

Just looked on ebay, you can get one - if they have one that fits an '01 (and some of these are oddly specific, like 02-04?!) - for around 5-600. I can do that...that AND the ABS maintenance, I dunno. :rolleyes: So I guess I just need to find a compatable year list and verify it is the final drive and not the brake.
 

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Sounds like you need to take a trip to the Yamaha dealer you like so much and have them look at it. I would take a guess that any technician should be able to determine what is leaking without too much trouble. Could be your rear brake caliper is leaking because the pad is worn to nothing
 

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Well if your rear brake pedal goes all the way in, you have broken a brake line. Enough oil or brake fluid on the ABS sensor will cause the abs light to come on. Pull the drain plug out of the final drive. Shiny chunks equals failed drive. Fuzzy gray equals good to go. Sounds like you maybe just popped a brake line. Make sure you top off the final drive after you check it. If it is your rear brake line that's about a hundred bucks and an hours labor.
 

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casualemt said:
Sounds like you need to take a trip to the Yamaha dealer you like so much and have them look at it. I would take a guess that any technician should be able to determine what is leaking without too much trouble. Could be your rear brake caliper is leaking because the pad is worn to nothing


Yep..piston might have came out of the bore.
 

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when the pads are worn totally - metal on metal - pistons are still more than 50% in bore and should not be leaking so if it is brake fluid would most likely be a ruptured brake line
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks again for all the feedback. Had it towed to the BMW dealer and should know tomorrow what exactly is wrong. Told them that if it's NOT the final drive, do the 60K stuff along with the fix. If it IS the final drive they said they might have a used one in stock. I'll let y'all know.

I'm almost convinced it was just break fluid and that it's a brake issue. And I needed the 60k and ABS stuff done anyway, this just prevented me from procrastinating further.
 

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Sounds like you have a failed rear drive. If you have a severe wheel wobble, the rotor may have knocked the pistons back into the calipers so far that a single push on the rear brake may bottom out before the pistons reach the rotor. Try slowly pumping the pedal to see if it firms up. Your bike may have ABS or Integral brakes depending on the build date. The ABS is manual and the Integral are linked and power assisted. I think the ABS type rear drive will have a speed sensor going into the housing just over the axle. The later ones use the ABS sensor to read the wheel speed. A similar thing happened to a friends K1300. Going down the road his speedometer dropped out and ABS light came on. Rear brake pedal had to be pumped twice before it worked. As soon as he did this the speedometer and ABS started working again.
Both styles are on ebay right now. Many salvage yards should have them also. Beemer boneyard, Re-Psycle, etc.
 

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To tell whether you have integral brakes or the older style look at the brake calipers. If they say BREMBO you have ABSII brakes. If they say BMW you have the integral brake system.

Loren

The cutoff build date was January 1, 2001. On or after this date you have the power assist integral brakes.
 

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What Loren said... and linked brakes have power servos which make an obvious whirring noise when they are activated. Ignition on, don't start, apply brakes, no noise is ABSII, whirring noise is linked power assist.
 
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