[Scouter-50]

Ongoing saga. Rode the 2000 K12 to work to check for bugs before vacation Wednesday. Everything seemed fine except the fuel gauge wouldn't go all the way to full (20 miles on the odo). While on the way to work at 30 miles the gauge dropped to 1/4 then slowly rose to about 3/4. At 40 miles it dropped to the white wide bar at the bottom then rose up again. I feel that this has to be an electrical resistance problem. The connection on top of the sending unit is clean and greased with di-electric grease. The tube has been inspected with no dents or damage. I checked the resistance with the sending unit out and it seemed to follow the movement of the float. I don't remember the values but it is on a previous post and I can find it if necessary. Am I missing the boat on connections? Are there any others? WTF? I dislike stuff that doesn't work properly.
Thanks, Robert

 

[jzeiler]

All I see in the diagram is a tie point( have no idea where it is) where it splits off to go the low fuel warning unit and then the connection at the dash.

 

[Scouter-50]

All I see in the diagram is a tie point( have no idea where it is) where it splits off to go the low fuel warning unit and then the connection at the dash.

Thanks, John. I Guess I'll have to live with it till I get back the 30th of July. I'm really tired of removing Tupperware. When I look up under the fairing to about where the instrument panel is am I seeing the back of the gauge panel? Is it possible to reach with a screwdriver to check the tightness of the wire connections? I will try that if it might be possible. I'm guessing the wire colors are yellow/violet, green/black and brown.

Robert

 

[gary45]

Robert my 2K fuel gauge started doing the same thing but after 2 tanks of fuel with "fuel system cleaner" not just injector cleaner it is returning to normal operation - maybe just a coincidence - hope not - also stopped using Shell for the time being
I put the whole bottle in each time and filled the tank, I'm going to do it a third time and wait and see.

 

[Scouter-50]

Robert my 2K fuel gauge started doing the same thing but after 2 tanks of fuel with "fuel system cleaner" not just injector cleaner it is returning to normal operation - maybe just a coincidence - hope not - also stopped using Shell for the time being
I put the whole bottle in each time and filled the tank, I'm going to do it a third time and wait and see.

I have a can of Sea Foam. I guess I'll try that a half a can at a time.

Robert

 

[jzeiler]

Is it possible to reach with a screwdriver to check the tightness of the wire connections? I will try that if it might be possible. I'm guessing the wire colors are yellow/violet, green/black and brown.

Robert

Don't know as I have never had an early dash out. Colors are correct. I would try the fuel treatment before I tore any more stuff apart. Never know. I remember my Grandfather stopped using Shell gas in 1963 when the coil went out on his 55 Chevy. He was sure that is what caused it. Never used it again!

 

[deanwoolsey]

My gauge was intermittent and it turned out to be a loose nut at the bottom (or maybe top?) of the fuel sender assembly. While it was staked in place, it was loose. Bent the tab down, tightened the nut, bent the tab back up, and good ever since.

 

[dfinazzo]

Many here over the years have solved intermittent instrument problems, especially on older
bikes, by opening and inspecting electrical connections and using on occasion dielectric
grease, along with re-crimping, sanding metal to metal connections and checking on wire
routings, pinch and rub points. Its called PM and while not all that popular fixing issues be
fore they become issues lets you also become one with your bike - just saying!!

 

[gary45]

Don't know as I have never had an early dash out. Colors are correct. I would try the fuel treatment before I tore any more stuff apart. Never know. I remember my Grandfather stopped using Shell gas in 1963 when the coil went out on his 55 Chevy. He was sure that is what caused it. Never used it again!

I've never had a GM vehicle but back (I think) late 70's there was a documented problem with GM car fuel level senders going bad and it seemed to be a problem if you used one brand of fuel - do not remember which

I switched to Shell exclusively and coincidently after that fuel gauge started acting up, do not feel like taking apart until late fall if it can be avoided

 

[jzeiler]

I've never had a GM vehicle but back (I think) late 70's there was a documented problem with GM car fuel level senders going bad and it seemed to be a problem if you used one brand of fuel - do not remember which

I switched to Shell exclusively and coincidently after that fuel gauge started acting up, do not feel like taking apart until late fall if it can be avoided

If it helps that is all I have run in my LT since new (except where I couldn't find Shell on a trip) and no fuel gage issues.

 

[gary45]

If it helps that is all I have run in my LT since new (except where I couldn't find Shell on a trip) and no fuel gage issues.

I switched to Shell, hard to find around here, because of their advertising and I do like the way my Taurus runs on it so hoping just a build up of deposits over time on the K sender and the fuel system cleaner will work - it is getting a lot better just does not quite go to full which it used to

 

[LGW]

Robert,

Sorry to hear your fuel gauge is still acting up. In answer to your question about additional connections, the level unit connects to the instrument cluster via a spade lug and nut/stud connection at the rear of the instrument cluster. It doesn't require a major " tupperware party" to gain access (windshield and top cover). This is the only other connection between the gauge and sending unit that I'm aware of as I'm pretty sure the stud is a part of the gauge proper. Hope this helps.

Les Willey

 

[Scouter-50]

Robert,

Sorry to hear your fuel gauge is still acting up. In answer to your question about additional connections, the level unit connects to the instrument cluster via a spade lug and nut/stud connection at the rear of the instrument cluster. It doesn't require a major " tupperware party" to gain access (windshield and top cover). This is the only other connection between the gauge and sending unit that I'm aware of as I'm pretty sure the stud is a part of the gauge proper. Hope this helps.

Les Willey

Thanks Les. I have not had the windshield off yet but it will have to wait for another day. I leave on an extended trip in the morning to New Mexico, Colorado, possibly Wyoming, Nebraska and Kansas then on to Sedalia and after the rally about a week in Arkansas then back to Texas.

Robert

 

[Dick]

Thanks Les. I have not had the windshield off yet but it will have to wait for another day. I leave on an extended trip in the morning to New Mexico, Colorado, possibly Wyoming, Nebraska and Kansas then on to Sedalia and after the rally about a week in Arkansas then back to Texas.

Robert

Hey, Robert - if you're coming out IH-10, there will be VERY little traffic problems in San Antonio today. Major roads were clear on Trans-cam this morning.

Wave and honk when you come past Boerne; and have a wonderful extended 7 or 8 state trip. Be safe.

 

[Scouter-50]

Hey, Robert - if you're coming out IH-10, there will be VERY little traffic problems in San Antonio today. Major roads were clear on Trans-cam this morning.

Wave and honk when you come past Boerne; and have a wonderful extended 7 or 8 state trip. Be safe.

Thanks, Dick. I'm in Lubbock now, went through Austin. No traffic. Gauge is still not working properly although I did try a fuel system cleaner and that seems to be helping. I stopped at Walmart and bought my snake oil of choice (Lucas) fuel system cleaner. I will try that the next fill up. I'll be camping at Sipapu tomorrow and Friday.

Robert

 

[deanwoolsey]

Don't know where you intend to stay while in Kansas but if it's near Topeka I can recommend a couple of good spots if you are camping out. PM me if interested.

 

[Scouter-50]

Ongoing saga. Rode the 2000 K12 to work to check for bugs before vacation Wednesday. Everything seemed fine except the fuel gauge wouldn't go all the way to full (20 miles on the odo). While on the way to work at 30 miles the gauge dropped to 1/4 then slowly rose to about 3/4. At 40 miles it dropped to the white wide bar at the bottom then rose up again. I feel that this has to be an electrical resistance problem. The connection on top of the sending unit is clean and greased with di-electric grease. The tube has been inspected with no dents or damage. I checked the resistance with the sending unit out and it seemed to follow the movement of the float. I don't remember the values but it is on a previous post and I can find it if necessary. Am I missing the boat on connections? Are there any others? WTF? I dislike stuff that doesn't work properly.
Thanks, Robert

OK, now the stoopid thing is working as if by magic. I guess the snake oils finally did their job. It is nice to have the distance to go on fuel. On with the vacation. So nice to be cold for a change. No such luck in Sedalia I'm afraid.

Robert

 

[Scouter-50]

OK, now the stoopid thing is working as if by magic. I guess the snake oils finally did their job. It is nice to have the distance to go on fuel. On with the vacation. So nice to be cold for a change. No such luck in Sedalia I'm afraid.

Robert

Ala, one tank does not a good test make. Back to the up and down.

Robert

 

[deanwoolsey]

Have you checked to be sure your charcoal cannister tube (under the right side bag) is not clogged? If you hear any air noise when you open the gas cap, there's a problem. When the EVAP system is clogged you'll hear a suction noise similar to a vintage car building pressure in the tank vapors only it's a negative pressure.

Also, that beer offer sounds good if you want to give me a call when you're in the neighborhood.

 

[saddleman]

My rule is to look for fuel at 220 miles on the highway & 250 miles in town. I don't trust any fuel gages or BC information. These bikes are way too heavy to push.