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Discussion Starter #1
In the Denver area we are running out of empty FM frequencies so I am contemplating using an RF modulator through the antenna cable to give me better sound (right now I use a little FM transmitter).
I have looked at the various threads and photos of how to get to the cables on the radio and my enthusiasm for this project is waning rapidly as I see how much bodywork needs to be removed. My experiences with anything involving bodywork removal have not been good and if I have to take off much of the front end of the bike I think I will just go back to earbuds under my helmet.
Does anyone know of an easier way to either get access to the backside of the radio or somewhere else I can access the antenna cable?

Thanks.
 

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You'll need to get that body work on and off sooner or later. May as well start getting used to it. Don't let her intimated you. You are the master. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've tried in the past. It has been an expensive process that I do not wish to repeat.
 

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Mark -

I feared the dreaded "tupperware" party for some time until finally last weekend jumped in - it really wasn't that bad - one thing that helped was to get a copy of the 'screw" schematic that shows all 50+ of them little fairing puppies and their length-location - punch a hole for each screw once removed put it in the hole and bingo no worries on where it goes during re-assembly - I went all the way to the frame which revealed a dead bird stuck in the frame and part in the air housing -- put in a K and N filter while I was there and my purpose was replacing the throttle cables -- they were getting stiffer and stiffer - like others before me have said RUN don't walk to get your throttle cable upgrade - man what a difference that made - but alias now I have the also dreaded "micro-switch" cruise control issue!

Do the FM antenna modulator - only way to go in our area (you are right too many FM stations) you will love the results - my XM radio is 100% better and clearer now (RadioShack or links on this site have the modulator for under $50.) You also might consider the BMW (Series 3 automobile works on the LT radio) "aux audio" wire kit that will give you an aux input for mp3 and such with a factory look (since you gotta get the whaletail off anyway)

Last but by far least - get a shop manual the picture and diagrams are more than worth the cost! several sources on this site!

And I can't say enough about BMWLT.COM :wave - for every issue I had I could find and answer here - by using this site I saved easily thousands in shop fees - yes THOUSANDS$$$
(most shops will tell you straight faced - 4 hour min @ $85/hour to pull the tupperware- so changing an air filter becomes a $600. plus venture!!!!) don't get me wrong I love my local shops but I can wrench most things myself - when I doubt I'll go to the professionals!)

So - remember to support this site for if we ever lose it we will have lost the best resource for LT info there is - think of it as if you have researched one thing here and found an answer it is well worth the cost of membership (free) so drop them some support, eh? Every $5.00 here or there really helps I'm sure!

Care to share what troubles you had in your plastic removal? And give a shout if I can help (I'm just north of ya - Fort Collins - can you believe this weather!!)

Bill
 

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You don't have to touch the Stingray.

Get the antenna modulator from BMW (as in automobiles) for about $70 or something similar.

You'll have to take off the LEFT upper fairing to access the antenna, it's plug and play from there (no splicing or anything, the antenna lead "wire" already has a plug in the middle that is located under the stingray) . I drilled a hole in the inside of the oddments box for the aux plug, sealed it with clear silicone sealant, plug the ipod right into that.
 

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Sorry Mark - I forgot to mention you can access the ant wire under the seat(s) and probably splice but there is a perfect split with correctly sized fittings right at the radio wiring mount on the left side of the stingray (unfortunately in your situation the underside) - see attached diagram -

Enjoy - ride on
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have dealt with enough antenna cable to agree that splicing into it is not the way to go. I've spent enough money replacing body panels after they break in the removal or reattachment phase to make me very reluctant to go that route for a small fix on a bike I don't plan on keeping much longer. I'm pretty much content with the bike the way it is (the former owner added lots of stuff, I have added nothing) but I would like better sound from the iPod. I will look over where all the screws are and decide if I am willing to dive into this or if I should just be happy with what I have.
 

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If you ride solo, get a pair of these:

http://earfuze.com custom-fit earphones for under $40 (they sound better than the $200 ones--I LOVE mine)
 

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Chilly said:
Mark -

a copy of the 'screw" schematic that shows all 50+ of them little fairing puppies and their length-location - punch a hole for each screw once removed put it in the hole and bingo no worries on where it goes during re-assembly
Where can I find this "screw" schematic of which you speak? Is it in the Clymer manual? I'm looking to pull mine for the first time here in a few weeks - Thanks!
 

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Sling -

I'll post a copy as soon I can -- tomorrow am probably
 

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Tupperware removal is no big deal... just time consuming. Once you've done it a couple times you can do it in your sleep.

The main problem is space. I bend up hangars and hang the big pieces on the wall or wherever... also I use ziplock bags and hang the related screws with the parts.

I think the last time I did it I had the gas tank off in about half an hour.
 

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Greetings fellow Tupperwareaphobics -

The "screw diagram" attached -- I made two copies one for the right - one for the left taped it to some cardboard and used and awl to punch holes at each screw - as I took the screws out they went into their appro hole - assembly was a breeze -- the manual says CW - CCW or something - didn't seem to matter - just don't start tightening until your sure you have all the little plastic breakable tabs and such in the right spots.

Go slow is my motto - my biggest worry was that I would step on something and break it - so it ended up in our family room for 3 days - my wife now thinks I love the LT more (hmm? and there's a problem here Dear?)

Marc - sorry to hear of your experience I'm lucky that mine went back together easily - I've seen other posts of nightmares on the site here but I don't think that's the norm - I had nightmares that I would be hauling my frame and all the plastic out to Beemers and More begging Steve to put it back together for me but it went back together fairly easy - I think I'm more "in-touch" with the bike now too how it's built and such I guess - where stuff is, etc -

Happy tupperwaring!
 

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markc said:
I have dealt with enough antenna cable to agree that splicing into it is not the way to go. I've spent enough money replacing body panels after they break in the removal or reattachment phase to make me very reluctant to go that route for a small fix on a bike I don't plan on keeping much longer. I'm pretty much content with the bike the way it is (the former owner added lots of stuff, I have added nothing) but I would like better sound from the iPod. I will look over where all the screws are and decide if I am willing to dive into this or if I should just be happy with what I have.
What year LT are we talking about here? If it's an older LT, with a cassette player, just get a cassette that accepts input to the heads from a 1/8" plug and plug in your iPod. A couple bucks, max, and no tupperware issue.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2255101

If no cassette player ... never mind.

Jer
 

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Discussion Starter #15
jers99lt said:
What year LT are we talking about here? If it's an older LT, with a cassette player, just get a cassette that accepts input to the heads from a 1/8" plug and plug in your iPod. A couple bucks, max, and no tupperware issue.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2255101

If no cassette player ... never mind.

Jer
It is a 2003 so there is no cassette player, just a single disc CD. The presence of a cassette would certainly make this easier as I still have that adapter left over from a previous car. All of this has me really wishing we were both employed at the moment as I would be bolting to some other model that has a proper AUX input (or better yet full iPod control) as fast as I could get someone to take the LT as a trade-in.
 

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Bill,
Thanks for the diagram. This a most valuable drawing. Ever since I put my tupperware back on I have had a vibration. I had one scre left over and am sure there are others that were put back in the wrong holes. Next time I take it off I can surely get it back on right :dance:
 

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For those of you worried about getting the tupperware screws back in the correct place - my system is to use a marker and put dots under the screw just removed. Then later you replace the screws using the dot system. There is no need to look at a schematic. There are 3 different length screws and here are the dots:
22m 1 dot(largest # of that size)
15m 2 dots(second largest #)
12m 3 dots
I even note the torque(marker) where possible so I do not need to look it up.
 

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bblalock said:
For those of you worried about getting the tupperware screws back in the correct place - my system is to use a marker and put dots under the screw just removed. Then later you replace the screws using the dot system. There is no need to look at a schematic. There are 3 different length screws and here are the dots:
22m 1 dot(largest # of that size)
15m 2 dots(second largest #)
12m 3 dots
I even note the torque(marker) where possible so I do not need to look it up.
And don't worry about getting them in the wrong place, either - even the dealers can't seem to get it right and it doesn't seem to affect much!

I've long since abandoned using the dealer for any service, however in my past ignorance of actually taking my bike for service to a well known "dealer" here in northern CA, I received it back with missing, wrong sized and stripped screws (and once a broken screw head due to over-torquing :mad:!).

Although you may have a rattle of two to work out, nothing will fall off...:D

I've since utilized a similar marking system on the plastic to identify their lengths, although after doing it enough times you seem to memorize where things go.
 

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Taking off the plastic is probably the easiest thing that you can do on this bike. My only hesitations are the windshields little chrome thingies (2) and popping off the mirrors.

Have done them all numerous times and I just hate the sounds they make!

Don't worry about the screws lengths. In general, if you are attaching two layers of plastic, it's the larger screw. One piece of plastic, use the smaller. Don't know what the middle length is for!

If you don't get um all back where they are supposed to, it's not a problem. Save the extras for the vacant holes you'll find later.

Taking off the tank, now thats a challenge...
 

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Not trying to urge Mark to do sumpthin' he's not comfortabe with, butt if push comes to shove and thangs need a leetle remove/replace, there is a pretty good list of fasteners and their locations in the HoW pages - got Raffy's authorship. And even after 10 years of owning ole Toad, I still refer to it now and then. Couple that with the diagram shown in the posts above, and one shouldn't have a problem. Just pay attention to the torque values - they're pretty low.

Had my fav tech at my fav dealership tell me one time - "if you put the designated screw back in the designated location, your body panels and parts will not shake, rattle and roll. They designed specific screws/bolts to go in specific locations for a reason." Tracks pretty close to what Dan said. So, I try to adhere to that rule, butt not always!! ;)

Here is the HoW article, #5 in the list I think.
 
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