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Discussion Starter #1
Old thread but valuable info in my opinion. For those who have been battling the dreaded rear wheel squeal on your LT, this might help save you money. I was having that squeal really bad. Tried the high priced EBC pads, tried sanding the disk, tried the teflon shims, tried the cardboard shims. Nothing worked. Was almost ready to purchase the EBC (expensive) rear disk, when i saw a set of OEM rear disk on ebay for 30 bucks. On a lark i tried them. Squeal is GONE, and hasn't come back in 1000 miles. Perhaps everyone should stop trying to "improve" on the German engineering, and stick with OEM. By the way, when i first did my brake job, it also had the EBC pads. So evidently the previous owner changed the pads thinking it was a better option.
OEM pads can be had for cheaper than EBC or other after market pads. You just have to look for them.. i found quite a few listings on ebay, and they are genuine BMW.
Just some info for everyone.
 

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On my OEM rear rotor, I was never able to find the cause of the sound. In my case it was an occasional real metal grind like the pads worn out against the rotor but that was not the case. Some might call that a squeal. I went the route of the EBC cross drilled rotor as an upgrade to the OEM and have not had any sign of it since. IMO, it was a good decision as i think the EBC cross drilled part is a better product than the OEM.
 

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Old thread but valuable info in my opinion. For those who have been battling the dreaded rear wheel squeal on your LT, this might help save you money. I was having that squeal really bad. Tried the high priced EBC pads, tried sanding the disk, tried the teflon shims, tried the cardboard shims. Nothing worked. Was almost ready to purchase the EBC (expensive) rear disk, when i saw a set of OEM rear disk on ebay for 30 bucks. On a lark i tried them. Squeal is GONE, and hasn't come back in 1000 miles. Perhaps everyone should stop trying to "improve" on the German engineering, and stick with OEM. By the way, when i first did my brake job, it also had the EBC pads. So evidently the previous owner changed the pads thinking it was a better option.
OEM pads can be had for cheaper than EBC or other after market pads. You just have to look for them.. i found quite a few listings on ebay, and they are genuine BMW.
Just some info for everyone.
Stop trying to improve on the German engineering..Not everything on these LT's are engineered well. These bikes have individual issues as all bikes do. And the rear rotors are not well engineered IMO. Those OEM rotors are notorious for bad carriers. They didn't name the clanging( The BMW Cowbell for nothing) That cowbell and sequel was driving me nuts I spent the $$ And got the EBC rear rotor. Money well spent. Wished I'd done it sooner. No more cowbell. Better braking. The EBC is TUV rated. And better quality. But to each their own.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well i must take my foot out of my mouth and hide my head in shame lol. Brakes started squealing again. dammit. I'm getting ready to order my EBC rotor. Good deal on Amazon at 145 plus free shipping. For those who have done this conversion, please clarify exactly which brake pads need to be matched to them.. I have a brand new set of FA304HH pads with less than 100 miles on them, but not sure if these are the ones i need. someone on the Amazon page said to only use the EBC FA304V. so now i'm confused. Please help
 

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Well i must take my foot out of my mouth and hide my head in shame lol. Brakes started squealing again. dammit. I'm getting ready to order my EBC rotor. Good deal on Amazon at 145 plus free shipping. For those who have done this conversion, please clarify exactly which brake pads need to be matched to them.. I have a brand new set of FA304HH pads with less than 100 miles on them, but not sure if these are the ones i need. someone on the Amazon page said to only use the EBC FA304V. so now i'm confused. Please help
I will have to double check but I remember something about not using full sintered pads on the rear. Semi sintered is OK and carbon fiber are OK. It has to do with the thickness of the metal and the stock available for the disk not being able to stand up to full sintered material.
 

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I will have to double check but I remember something about not using full sintered pads on the rear. Semi sintered is OK and carbon fiber are OK. It has to do with the thickness of the metal and the stock available for the disk not being able to stand up to full sintered material.
Yes, this is per EBC instructions. And I am pretty sure the OEM pads are organic also.
 

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I believe 304V It says right on the box. Otherwise you void the warranty. It's really super simple. I was done in an hour.
 

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You will have to apply heat and remove the timing ring off one of the old rotors you have as the new one doesn't come with the ring but does come with new screws that you will likely have to drill out of the old rotor.
 

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Kirk from BMW motorrad club of northern illinios has an excellent video on changing out that rotor.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Well, to get a definitive answer, i called EBC brakes direct. Bottom line is that the double HH pads SHOULD NOT be used with the EBC disk. use the semi sintered V pads, so as not to gouge the disk.
FYI
 

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I have the rear EBC rotor on one of my LT's and after over 100,000 miles using the Double H pads it shows & measures no sign of wear.
I have ridden behind you and for the short amount of time I can keep up, you don't use your brakes. The one time you did, the pad separated from the backing. >:)
 
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I have ridden behind you and for the short amount of time I can keep up, you don't use your brakes. The one time you did, the pad separated from the backing. >:)
Yes I did have a pad separate from the backing plate. It was a front left & I don't even know what manufacture the brake pad was. :surprise:
 

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I have a NIB set of sintered metal rear pads from BBY if someone wants to make me an offer. After what the last set did to my OEM rotor, I won't use sintered pads again on the rear.

My new EBC rotor is nice and quiet with the recommended EBC pads, what they call semi-sintered as I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
saddleman, i'm just quoting what the EBC tech told me. I'm sure many are using the HH pads, but as for me, i'm going with their recommendation.
 

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I hear ya.... my old bike, I put a "better" pad on the front. Yes they did stop a bit better. But I always got a noise when applying the front brake it was a PAIN.... I worked on the slides, roughed up the rotor, cleaned and cleaned.... found that I had to put the same number of grooves on both pads and it finally resolved the issue. The OEM pads had 3 grooves and the aftermarket only had two. But I have now an extra set of OEM pads to go on when I need them... LOL.

Anyway... thank you for the heads up... Im learning as much as I can about the LT and also about a BMW bike.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well just an update. R & R the rear rotor and pads on my 06 lt yesterday. Contrary to most treads and everyone's worries, it was one of the simplest jobs i've performed on this bike. Yes a little heat (with a Harbor Freight) heat gun for the screw, but they came off very easily. As far as the abs ring, that didn't even need heat. Just used a tire iron and slowly pried it off all around. The whole job took no more than an hour. I felt the difference and there was absolutely no squeal or cow bell. Love it. If you're worried about performing this task on your own, don't be. Just take your time. I love working on this bike so much more than i did with my Harleys. It's a great learning process, and i get to really know the bike.
 
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