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New to the site, i love it. i bought a 2002 k1200 lt with in the last couple months with a stiff throttle.i though it was no big deal.after reading some forums on the subject,i am undecided if i want to do the job myself. i bought all the replacement parts for $150 (ouch),now the dealer wants $400 to do the job.is it as easy as some people say or as hard as other say. i can always take things apart with no problem,it is putting back together that is the problem. can i end up doing some real damage here or am i getting worried for no reason?
 

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mikster said:
New to the site, i love it. i bought a 2002 k1200 lt with in the last couple months with a stiff throttle.i though it was no big deal.after reading some forums on the subject,i am undecided if i want to do the job myself. i bought all the replacement parts for $150 (ouch),now the dealer wants $400 to do the job.is it as easy as some people say or as hard as other say. i can always take things apart with no problem,it is putting back together that is the problem. can i end up doing some real damage here or am i getting worried for no reason?
Hi, Mike - welcome to the site. Glad to have ya aboard here.

Down at the bottom of your post are several 'similar threads' with the same topic as yours. In addition to the others, the one started by John Rehder is very good. He takes you thru his procedure and then there is discussion by others involving work arounds or tips to make some aspects easier.

Several folks here in the family have done the cable replacement with just a leetle hand-wringing during the process, butt with excellent results in the final finish. Others, like myself, had the dealer do it (under a recall warranty service for me) and are likewise pleased with the performance of the new cable and it's slightly better routing path.

You might consider this; Rehder holds a tech session at his place up near Hotlanta a few times a year and if you find when the next one is gonna be, maybe you could attend and let John look over your shoulder while you do the cable deed. Just a suggestion (hey John, sock it to me if I've over-spoke!!! ;) ).

Good luck, Mike. And congrats on the new-to-you '02; ride safe.
 

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I too have an '02, & have replaced the cables myself. It's not an "easy", as in the gas cap mod, job but it's doable. Mine took a couple of days from removal of the tupperware, to replacing the cables, to adjusting & getting the cruise right, to reinstalling the tupperware. Of course I wasn't in any hurry.

I found that a pair of long nosed pliers with a bend in the end made access to the bell crank for the cables easier. I didn't remove the air box or the fuel rail, so it became a little like laparoscopic surgery. Take your time, have some patients, & ping if you need assistance. I'm in Ormond Beach............
 

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Mike as Dick said there is alot of help if you get stuck ask. I have done this mod and it did reduce the resistance. But I was not satisfied. If you want additional reduction of the resistance I have found 2 things you can do.
First make sure the breather hose is not binding against the throttle rail.
Second and I feel this is the main cause of the problem. The return springs are over kill . I will post 2 pictures of the spring I relaxed.
 

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murray said:
Mike as Dick said there is alot of help if you get stuck ask. I have done this mod and it did reduce the resistance. But I was not satisfied. If you want additional reduction of the resistance I have found 2 things you can do.
First make sure the breather hose is not binding against the throttle rail.
Second and I feel this is the main cause of the problem. The return springs are over kill . I will post 2 pictures of the spring I relaxed.
Mike the side view of the springs. Note the spring is in the relaxed position. The stock position was at three oclock.
 

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Pete, I'm confused by your picture and description. If I'm looking at it correctly, the spring is in the 12-o'clock position. In the 3-o'clock position, what does part of the lever does the spring push against?

Most important - did you noticeably reduce the throttle effort?
 

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The other problem with the old style throttle cables is that due to the cable routing at the grip, you'll eventually break the cable at the grip end. When this happens, you'll be 200 miles from anywhere. Trying to ride with one hand on the left handlebar and the other pulling on a set of vise grips attached to the remaining throttle cable is not something I recommend.

Just my $.02.
 

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tbarstow said:
The other problem with the old style throttle cables is that due to the cable routing at the grip, you'll eventually break the cable at the grip end. When this happens, you'll be 200 miles from anywhere. Trying to ride with one hand on the left handlebar and the other pulling on a set of vise grips attached to the remaining throttle cable is not something I recommend.

Just my $.02.
I have an '02 with 50k on the clock. The cables are NOT stiff and have never been changed.

So, my question is: Do only STIFF LT cables break or do ALL LT cables break?!

Who has had NONE stiff cables fail...and at what mileage?

I've had airhead cables last 10 - 15 years. :bmw:
 

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Not at all...

Dick, thanks for braggin on me! The cables are not too hard; justs takes a little extra time. But I know after doing it on my own bike the next bike will be a lot quicker. Learnig curve helps in a lot of things.


Dick said:
Hi, Mike - welcome to the site. Glad to have ya aboard here.

Down at the bottom of your post are several 'similar threads' with the same topic as yours. In addition to the others, the one started by John Rehder is very good. He takes you thru his procedure and then there is discussion by others involving work arounds or tips to make some aspects easier.

Several folks here in the family have done the cable replacement with just a leetle hand-wringing during the process, butt with excellent results in the final finish. Others, like myself, had the dealer do it (under a recall warranty service for me) and are likewise pleased with the performance of the new cable and it's slightly better routing path.

You might consider this; Rehder holds a tech session at his place up near Hotlanta a few times a year and if you find when the next one is gonna be, maybe you could attend and let John look over your shoulder while you do the cable deed. Just a suggestion (hey John, sock it to me if I've over-spoke!!! ;) ).

Good luck, Mike. And congrats on the new-to-you '02; ride safe.
 

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CarSalesman said:
Pete, I'm confused by your picture and description. If I'm looking at it correctly, the spring is in the 12-o'clock position. In the 3-o'clock position, what does part of the lever does the spring push against?

Most important - did you noticeably reduce the throttle effort?
Don , Let me try to clarify this. When viewing the throttle rail from the side in my picture the spring is in the relaxed position. The stock position actually places the hook on the spring at 5 o'clock. Note when viewing the side picture the throttle rail rotates clockwise.
Changing the spring placement greatly reduced throttle effort.
 

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Tech session at Rehder's huh? I been trying to get him to schedule one so we can check the buckets on the LT. This new wife thing is killing me. ;) :rotf:
 

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Steve_R said:
Tech session at Rehder's huh? I been trying to get him to schedule one so we can check the buckets on the LT. This new wife thing is killing me. ;) :rotf:
Trust me. . . it's not killing you half as bad as ticking her off so bad that she leaves. :histerica
 
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