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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for some help. My '01 had/has a stiff throttle. After reading several posts the answer seemed to be to replace the throttle cables with new ones that have the "curve" tube at the grip thus reducing the hard rub. Well I bought the cables and the handlebar gadget that goes with it and just finished the install. Not an easy job to say the least! Most folks here say the difference is amazing. Not on mine..... very very disappointed in the results. "IF" there is any difference its 10% better (maybe). I checked and rechecked my install and the routing of the cables. Nothing clearly wrong or pinched or tight radius. If any of you have done this can you please advise me on what to look for? I have the cable adjusters almost all the way in so that there is little or no pressure on the lines (pull side GREEN cable). The white line RETURN is just snug enough to take up the slack. Any ideas would be welcomed as I'm really bummed about the results not to mention time and money spent on the cable kit (about $200).

Thanks everyone,
MV
 

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I have had my 2000 almost 5 years. When I bought it the cable upgrade had already been done. When I say the throttle was stiff I mean it took too much pressure to open it and to hold it in place. It would close very easily. After some research I decided to unhook one of the throttle return springs on the throttle shaft. Problem cured. The throttle still easily closes when released. I was able to unhook one spring using a bent dental pick type of tool. The spring is still in place an can be hooked back up if needed.
 

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Welcome Manny.

Another possibility is gunk under the throttle handle. I had a stiff throttle and also the new cables on my 01. It isn't an easy job and I messed up one of my heated grips being a " guy" and trying to man handle it but you have to disconnect the heater cable ( if you have the heated grips ) and feed it back through the tube to get the throttle handle off without yanking on the cable and clean under it. I think someone greased it or put something under it on mine and the heated grips cooked it to a thick paste and it was making it hard to turn. Make sure you tie a string to the heater wire to pull it back through the bars, makes it much easier.

Be careful about releasing return springs as it can affect the running of the bike as jzeiler discovered and noted in several other threads. Routing of the cables is also important for proper operation.
 

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I have had my 2000 almost 5 years. When I bought it the cable upgrade had already been done. When I say the throttle was stiff I mean it took too much pressure to open it and to hold it in place. It would close very easily. After some research I decided to unhook one of the throttle return springs on the throttle shaft. Problem cured. The throttle still easily closes when released. I was able to unhook one spring using a bent dental pick type of tool. The spring is still in place an can be hooked back up if needed.
I can attest that the the throttle doesn't always come back feeling silky and light to the turn. If I had to guess I would say the open effort has been reduced maybe by a quarter, possibly a third. The close was always snappy but the open effort was actually a shock when I test drove it (note, neither cable looked or felt in dire straits when I got them off, both pulled back and forth without catching on anything, however I don't recall if the routing of the cables appeared inhibited).

That said, I came from a 2005 1150RT where I only had two TBs and the throttle on it was golden even though it had no cruise. I had another 4 cylinder bike back in 86, a Suzuki Cavalcade but I don't recall it being hard, either. FYI, my cruise worked just fine the couple of times I used it before dismantling. I do like the idea of trying this spring trick because my hands have taken some abuse since I got into the programming racket in 1981, lol, and I don't want to lose the light feel if I can help it. Thanks for the tip, going to look for a pic showing location.
 

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Years back when bikes had nasty return springs it did not work with my arthritis and or cold hands. I tried a Throttle Rocker to see if the extra torque would help. Now I use them on all my bikes, even those with electronic throttles that hardly need assistance. Takes a bit to get used to them and find the proper placement. And take it off if you ever lend the bike to anyone. Don't buy a copy or the one with a strap on it.
https://www.amazon.com/Throttle-Rocker-Original-Aztec-Cargo/dp/B00D46P06G/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Throttle+rocker&qid=1550555806&s=gateway&sr=8-5
With your poor results and new cables one wonders if the routing is as intended. Remember that they are not intended to be lubed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
First, thank you all for the comments and possible solution/ideas. I will check-off two of the possibilities, I have no gunk under the throttle grips (I also took the gorilla approach and ripped the heaters right out!). Second idea, I did replace OEM with larger grips (commonly found on Harley's) and I added the throttle rocker. It helps but I didn't overcome the stiffness, just added a massive grip to ease the torque . The third idea of releasing one of the return springs sounds good, at least to try it as the spring is not removed but just unhooked.

As much as I hate to rip back into the throttle-body area again its far batter than giving up. Which spring should I release? I think I saw 2, one on each side of the rotating cam (I don't know what to call it but it's the thing that has both cables hooked to it. Green/pull on top and the white/return on the bottom).

Thanks for all the help,
MV
 

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2005 K1200LT
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NO the green opener goes on the bottom and the white closer goes on top. DO NOT pop any springs off the TB. It will cause a false "closed throttle" reading on the TPS and the bike will run like crap.

The LT has a very hard throttle feel compared to most other bikes, even when every thing is installed and adjusted correctly.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Jzeiler for the comments. I installed correctly (green on bottom, white on top) but just wrote it wrong. I decided to release the middle return spring on the TB and went through the gears/cruise control and everything "seems" to be operating correctly. Will know more tomorrow when I take the bike for a long and slow ride. Should any faults appear I will but the spring back and live with it. I have to say, the throttle feels great! I hope this works out but I will keep an eye out for any issues as you stated. Thank you
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Some have done that with success but the last bike I worked on the owner cleaned the TB and inadvertently popped one spring off and the bike ran like crap. Put the GS 911 on it and the TPS was not set correctly. We never touched it so I searched for the answer and found the spring off and reset the spring and bike passed the TPS test and ran like a champ. Just sayin'.
 

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The rotating plates that control the butterfly valves on the throttle bodies were hanging up on my 2005 LT. Graphite based spray lube from the auto parts store fixed me up. Good not for past 2 years.

I would not spray anything with engine running. The O2 and air mass sensors are easy to mess up.
 
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