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Discussion Starter #1
Tonight my right front brake hose sprung a leak atthe upper swage. I'm ordering the full set from Speigler and just wanted to know if there are any "gotcha's" when installing these?

Also, I've read here that some of you have had the OEM hose spit open but how many have experienced the failure of a swage?
 

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Ken, if you're talking about the hose that runs from the reservoir on the handlebars down to the union near the steering head, I just had that same type of failure last week and ordered Spieglers also. Mine was a pinhole right at where the hose is swaged into the fitting on the bottom side of the hose.

This is a fairly common failure point, probably due to the amount of flexing that results from the movement of the front end.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #3
John,
Thanks for the reply. No, my failure was on the upper swage on the line forthe RH caliper's hose, up where it bolts to the junction block mounted at the upper end of the forks. Mine is actually leaking from under the flared end that results from the swagging proces.


AlaskaFish said:
Ken, if you're talking about the hose that runs from the reservoir on the handlebars down to the union near the steering head, I just had that same type of failure last week and ordered Spieglers also. Mine was a pinhole right at where the hose is swaged into the fitting on the bottom side of the hose.

This is a fairly common failure point, probably due to the amount of flexing that results from the movement of the front end.

John
 

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No gotcha's.

Get a good look at how the line is routed from the front brake reservoir to the first union. There is an L-bracket close to the reservoir and the line goes under the bracket. If the line is on top of the bracket, the upper handle bar cover will not install properly.

I also had to loosen the clamp for the front brake reservoir and rotate the reservoir/turn signal switch assembly to loosen the banjo fitting. Before loosening the clamp, mark it and the handlebar so you can get the assembly clocked at the same spot as before.

The t-block for the front brake lines was a little long for the bracket. I bent the tab out some on the mounting bracket so the nut could hold the 5-block fast. I assembled the lines to the t-block first, installed the t-block on the stud, then tightened down all the lines.

The banjo fitting on the line from the rear master cylinder to the hard line forward of the rear shock's forward mount bolt is a bear; getting the line, banjo fitting, and gaskets to cooperate is fun. Patience pays off. I removed the master cylinder and then replaced the bottom of the line/banjo fitting. After getting the master cylinder bolts snugged down, actuate the brake lever and listen for the switches to make sure they actuate.

There are just enough crush washers to do the job; don't lose one. There is a plastic rod that is used to rotate the lines fittings; instructions call to use the hose clamps in a vise. A rag wrapped around the line, held with channel locks, worked as the vise for me.

Kinda long winded. Hope this helps.
Curt
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the input. I had planned on assembling the lines to junction block, hookingthem to the calipers and filling the lines & block with fluid using a syringe with the front caliper bleeders open. Then close them up and hook the line up at the other end.
I've used the speigler lines on a K100RT restoration I did and am fimiliar with the plastic block tool.
I'm not sure I'm going to replace the lines going to the ABS pump unit yet, maybe just the ones FROM it. I'll do the lines to it later, when I'm ready for a full system bleed.

Thanks again.

Ken

wacolt said:
No gotcha's.

Get a good look at how the line is routed from the front brake reservoir to the first union. There is an L-bracket close to the reservoir and the line goes under the bracket. If the line is on top of the bracket, the upper handle bar cover will not install properly.

I also had to loosen the clamp for the front brake reservoir and rotate the reservoir/turn signal switch assembly to loosen the banjo fitting. Before loosening the clamp, mark it and the handlebar so you can get the assembly clocked at the same spot as before.

The t-block for the front brake lines was a little long for the bracket. I bent the tab out some on the mounting bracket so the nut could hold the 5-block fast. I assembled the lines to the t-block first, installed the t-block on the stud, then tightened down all the lines.

The banjo fitting on the line from the rear master cylinder to the hard line forward of the rear shock's forward mount bolt is a bear; getting the line, banjo fitting, and gaskets to cooperate is fun. Patience pays off. I removed the master cylinder and then replaced the bottom of the line/banjo fitting. After getting the master cylinder bolts snugged down, actuate the brake lever and listen for the switches to make sure they actuate.

There are just enough crush washers to do the job; don't lose one. There is a plastic rod that is used to rotate the lines fittings; instructions call to use the hose clamps in a vise. A rag wrapped around the line, held with channel locks, worked as the vise for me.

Kinda long winded. Hope this helps.
Curt
 
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