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Got a late start with lots of rain and cold and only a small heater for my garage so I kept putting things off and off and off and finally got her up on the lift to do some of the things I had planned for this seasons riding.

Accomplished so far.

Oil and filter changed
New battery installed
New Quantum fuel pump and re-did the nylon flexible internal fuel lines.
Added down LED lights to the under side of the wings.
Installed new ( to me ) Remus exhaust system to go with John's stage 6 chip
Bled the brake system

Yet to do

Change the dash lights to LED. Have white and red. Will try red first.
Change FD oil and inspect the magnet
Button her back up.

I decided to not pull the tank and change the air filter as it was done last season and only did a few thousand miles. That left me with an installed tank to replace the fuel pump. Being 18 years old, I am updating systems as I can while I can as I hope to have it for a few more years and miles with the possibility of some longer trips. I siphoned out as much fuel as I could and made a catch funnel for the residual as I removed the lock ring and drained it into a spare can to use as cleaning fuel never to see the inside of a tank or engine again. IT is possible but messy to repair/replace the fuel pump or internal lines without removing the tank so I did that this time. Bought a new Quantum fuel pump to replace the original. I had a larger loop on the nylon lines than I really wanted and lost one of the screw clamps that came with them so I used some Oetiker clamps on the end of one line. I cut those off and removed the line to adjust. It was still plenty flexible after a couple years and I had no trouble removing it and replacing it with the new pump. I cut the end I left long as can be seen in the spare piece I carry just in case as that is enough to do the total job so I could make the loop tighter inside the tank. I installed a new rubber gasket from Euro MotoElectric as the old one was getting a little hard. Added some fuel back in and did a test run. All good there.

I found some bright quad LED clusters at the local auto store on sale so I decided to get them and place them under the wings to enhance my night time visual signature. There has been some recent talk of " courtesy lights" under the wings, some fancy like shadow BMW logo but I didn't get that fancy yet. I made a light plate that uses the existing screws of the tip over bumper cover so I didn't have to cut, weld and grind on the bumper itself so I just drilled a few more holes and attached them to the plate using the existing wiring to the light I mounted there. Not the prettiest but it is functional.


Bought a used Remus exhaust and got that installed. I have John G's stage 6 chip already and so far, I like the way it sounds. Hopefully it will allow a smidgen more power to be squeezed out of the old girl. New copper gaskets were a pain to get all to stay on top of the headers as I raised it into place. Took about 6 tries but finally I succeeded.

New PC680 after the original installed the day I bought the bike 6 years ago. Still had no trouble cranking the bike but 6 years is enough. It will become a bench battery for the rest of its useful life.

Almost ready for the weather to be perfect for about a week and then get really hot all of a sudden here in Atlanta.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Good work. I always put a dab of sticky grease on the copper gaskets and just stick them up in the hole. Makes it a little easier. Removing the fuel pump is less messy if you have it on the side stand.
 

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I did pretty good with the siphon. I figure I had less than 2 cups left when I removed the lock ring. I am much happier with the new pump line configuration. Only one little mistake on the exhaust install. After I got it all together and bolted up, I failed to remove the black zip ties that were placed on the headers to keep the flanges up at the top. Boy what mess that made. Took a lot of time to get all that melted plastic removed without pulling it apart. I knew they were there, but forgot in my excitement to hear what it sounded like.
 

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I am glad to hear that I am not the only one that forgets to do something before putting it back together

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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I am glad to hear that I am not the only one that forgets to do something before putting it back together

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
I should have taken a picture of it. It looked like something out of Halloween. Black blood running down the pipes. Turned to concrete.
 
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Pictures of the before and after grooming of the nylon fuel lines. I was a little too cautious on cutting the smooth areas and fitting it properly the first go round. Glad I decided to redo it with the new pump.
 

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Pictures of the before and after grooming of the nylon fuel lines. I was a little too cautious on cutting the smooth areas and fitting it properly the first go round. Glad I decided to redo it with the new pump.
Good job! Your NEW version is like I had originally done with similar hose kit. Except for lower section below filter where I kept a submersible straight rubber hose section. You can find this fairly cheap at auto parts (specs as SAE 30R10) OR at HONDA motorcycles dealer for about $US 3.25 as EITHER:
- HONDA part no "16712-MAT-D01" (2 inch long)
- HONDA part no "16711-MAT-D00" (3 inch long)

Like you, I had removed as much straight section as possible AND made sure you move the clamp such as you are just pass the ridge in metal tube. This way we can avoid risk of hose slip like we have seen here on forum so often - as there is a "potential" initial burst of pressure quite above the working pressure of 50 PSI.
 

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Drained the FD tonight and am pretty pleased with what I see. Magnet had only very fine dust on it and the oil did have signs of non ferrous something floating in it so not sure where that is coming from. It was rebuilt with a new pinion bearing and seal along with re-seating the pinion needle race with loctite and a new taper bearing and seat sealed also with loctite.

Installed the RED LED bulbs and I like it. Time to start buttoning her back up and start riding.
 

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Well, I was shamed by Voyagers Alaska prep and decided to go ahead and check my valves. It seems I need 4 this go round ( my first at 64K ) I have no idea what size buckets I need because I have not had it apart yet to record them. I guess I am not done with my spring maintenance just yet. I went to Autozone to see if they had a better feeler gauge than I had and found something called a GO-NO-GO gauge with a tapered tip. This in the varying sizes allowed me to get a much better measurement than the first time around. The ends are ground .002 inches thinner then the bulk of the blade so it is easier to get the thinner part of the blade in and see if the thicker part goes or no goes. Cool tool.
 

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Well, I was shamed by Voyagers Alaska prep and decided to go ahead and check my valves. It seems I need 4 this go round ( my first at 64K ) I have no idea what size buckets I need because I have not had it apart yet to record them. I guess I am not done with my spring maintenance just yet. I went to Autozone to see if they had a better feeler gauge than I had and found something called a GO-NO-GO gauge with a tapered tip. This in the varying sizes allowed me to get a much better measurement than the first time around. The ends are ground .002 inches thinner then the bulk of the blade so it is easier to get the thinner part of the blade in and see if the thicker part goes or no goes. Cool tool.
You’re welcome! :grin:

Looks like a couple of your exhaust clearances got larger. That is odd.
 

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You’re welcome! :grin:

Looks like a couple of your exhaust clearances got larger. That is odd.
Better tool, better measurements. 22 blades with double measurements gives me 44 steps with values I didn't have before. Being able to start the thinner tip and then see if the thicker will go through at the angles you have to insert them was easier. The ones that remained the same may actually be closer than before but I have more confidence in the measurement.
 

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Better tool, better measurements. 22 blades with double measurements gives me 44 steps with values I didn't have before. Being able to start the thinner tip and then see if the thicker will go through at the angles you have to insert them was easier. The ones that remained the same may actually be closer than before but I have more confidence in the measurement.
I don’t have the stepped gauges, but I did buy a set of the bent end gauges and they make life much easier on the LT compared to my old straight blade feeler gauges.
 

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I don't think I would use stepped blades, too easy to push open a valve. I like the fact that if it won't go then it is not that clearance. Also I always use the blade by itself with oily fingers that way I won't push a vale open.
 
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I don't think I would use stepped blades, too easy to push open a valve. I like the fact that if it won't go then it is not that clearance. Also I always use the blade by itself with oily fingers that way I won't push a vale open.
I only wish that my gauges had metric as the primary marking and US as the secondary. I bought them thinking they were that, but when I got them they are in whole thousands and fractional metric rather than the other way around. I just grab three that cover the low, mid and high values and it doesn’t take long to run each one.

It is always nice to check them after putting the new buckets in and getting exactly the calculated clearance. :smile:
 

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Gee mine say 0.152 mm primary and .006 in as a secondary. I don't think I have ever seen a 0.15 mm blade.
 

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Gee mine say 0.152 mm primary and .006 in as a secondary. I don't think I have ever seen a 0.15 mm blade.
As do mine. I am pretty sure they make blades that are made to metric sizes rather than being English unit blades stamped with the metric equivalent. Not a big deal, but it would be more convenient to measure in the same units as the buckets are sized in.
 

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I have seen them out there but you get a 0.15 then a 0.20 hard to tell just what you have if the .15 goes but .20 doesn't at least with a .006 or .007 you have a better feel for where it is at. But then a .006 is actually .152 mm so if a .006 doesn't go and a real .15 does - too confusing if you nit pick. I don't worry about calculating what size I need if the .006 is tight and the .005 is loose, just go one size smaller, only time I really needed to calculate was that one bike where several were .001 and one was .0005. But I think I just went two sizes smaller.
 

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I don't think I would use stepped blades, too easy to push open a valve. I like the fact that if it won't go then it is not that clearance. Also I always use the blade by itself with oily fingers that way I won't push a vale open.
If you really try and jam it in, I agree with you but it is pretty obvious when you hit the step if it really fits or not. Same with a non tapered blade. If you try hard enough, you might get it under the cam but you know that it is too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My M&M's arrived today.
 

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