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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I spent most of the day workin on my bike. Well not really ;) I started around 11:00am ,it took about 3 1/2 hours to tear her down and replace ALL the flex brake lines with Spiegler Stainless Steel flex lines. Man what a difference, NO MORE SOFT brakes, I road the NEEKID bike around the block and got a lot of looks :wow: Sense I had the body panels off I also gave her a good bath. Even washed the insides of the panels here are a few pics

You can get the line kits here http://www.spieglerusa.com/cfm/brakelines.cfm
 

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Nice!

Very nice! You do that all by yourself? :D
 

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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
D.Kinsey said:
Very nice! You do that all by yourself? :D
Hey now your not talkin to Jerry here :rotf: I can turn a wrench with the best of them :rolleyes:

BTW nice avitar ;)
 

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Easy now....

katnapinn said:
Hey now your not talkin to Jerry here :rotf: I can turn a wrench with the best of them :rolleyes:

BTW nice avitar ;)
Just wondering if you have one of them new fangled bleed'n tools.Nice pic eh ;)
 

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Good job!

That's great Steve. I've got a set on the way - should be here Monday. I'm going to try and get them done this week.

I'm glad to have the older non-integrated brakes that I can bleed myself.

I've been having a few difficulties with my LT maintenance and was wondering if my girl still loved me. I'm going to woo her with a new set of brake lines and try to win her back. :)

Joe
 

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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
D.Kinsey said:
Just wondering if you have one of them new fangled bleed'n tools.Nice pic eh ;)
Yes sir I got me one of them there Harbor Freight Power Bleeders. :p Makes bleedin a piece-o-cake
 

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How much in $$$ did this set you back?
 

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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
KIC said:
How much in $$$ did this set you back?
It was less then $250.00 with shipping to my door
I called them @ 937-291-1735 ordered kit #S-BM0140 for 99 & up LT for $234.95 they shipped the same day & received it in 3 days
 

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ooops -

i just put up a new thread asking about any gothcas about changing the rear line on a 2000?

anything particular to note?

i got kinda scared when the shop manual shows using a crane to remove the rear subrame =8-o
 

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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hmmmm90s said:
i just put up a new thread asking about any gothcas about changing the rear line on a 2000?

anything particular to note?

i got kinda scared when the shop manual shows using a crane to remove the rear subrame =8-o
It's not that hard..... First remove rear seat then right rear foot peg plate. Next the small rear body panel (behind rear foot plate) then the front lower panel(gray one). There are 2 flex lines one bolts in just below the front of the rear shock mount. use a 17mm wrench to hold the nut and a 6mm Allen socket to remove banjo bolt. The other end goes to the master cyl behind the right drivers peg plate (witch has to be removed also). the 2nd line runs from the brake caliper to a juction block just in front of the right side case. Hold the block with a wrench and remove banjo bolt with a 6 mm Allen socket If you need help PM me and I'll walk ya threw it :rolleyes:
 

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Good job Steve! Let us know how you like'em.
 

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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ibbones said:
Good job Steve! Let us know how you like'em.
Bones... Yesterday I hooked up the trailer , loaded about 200lbs in it and went for a lil test ride.The bike stopped with only the REAR brake. It's has never done that before,:wow: I always had to use both brakes when pulling the trailer. Plus I get NO brake fade:thumb: I would suggest every one get this kit and UPGRADE your brakes.
 

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katnapinn said:
Bones... Yesterday I hooked up the trailer , loaded about 200lbs in it and went for a lil test ride.The bike stopped with only the REAR brake. It's has never done that before,:wow: I always had to use both brakes when pulling the trailer. Plus I get NO brake fade:thumb: I would suggest every one get this kit and UPGRADE your brakes.
I told you that in 2006. But, didja listen?

Huh?

What?

Eh?



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katnapinn said:
Bones... Yesterday I hooked up the trailer , loaded about 200lbs in it and went for a lil test ride.The bike stopped with only the REAR brake. It's has never done that before,:wow: I always had to use both brakes when pulling the trailer. Plus I get NO brake fade:thumb: I would suggest every one get this kit and UPGRADE your brakes.
Yeah yeah, I know. I'm still wanting to replace my throttle cables first.
 

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Can you purchase just the rear replacement cables? Did you receive new washers for the banjo fitting? I tried to purchase a replacement washer for the banjo fitting for the rear shock adjuster, but the dealer said none were listed in the parts fish. I have no problem with my front brake at all, but my rear is mushy (for lack of a better term). I guess if I changed the front also, I would feel the difference there also.
 

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I've been doing some reading regarding stainless steel brake lines. The lines from Spiegler seem to be good quality at a good price. Some parts are offered, but I didn't see washers for banjo bolts and fittings. I'm not sure how difficult they would be to obtain. What are the washers made of? I know some are made of copper.

Looking at another supplier's website, this warning is posted. http://www.helusa.com/HEL_Performance_Brake_Line_Aluminium.htm Hel Performance states that aluminum fittings should not be used with stainless steel lines due to electrolytic corrosion.

Spiegler's website doesn't specify if the fittings are stainless or aluminum, but the banjo bolts they sell are aluminum. I was unable to find the written lifetime warranty on their website. If there were to be a problem with electrolytic corrosion, how long would it take to occur? Would the failure be covered by the warranty?

While the answers may not be available here, I'm sending an e-mail to Spiegler. If I get a reply, there should be some details. I'll post what I find out.
 
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