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Hey there everyone -- this is chapter 2 of the clutch repair process by a novice wrencher. fortunately, I threw caution to the wind -- actually the other local LT riders Rob, Bob and Mike did as I just followed along -- last weekend and took the bike's clutch out. Here is what I learned.

1. Taking apart the LT, for the most part, is best done with 2 people.

2. The LT's clutch is not one of the bike's strongest features.

3. The clutch offered by Siebenrock (I was told this by a BMW tech) is most likely made of ceramic. I cannot confirm this as I have not see my siebenrock clutch -- it was just ordered yesterday. If it is, I am curious if it will cause a higher degree of failure to the plates it comes in contact with as my gut seems to think the new material used is much "harder" than the OEM clutch (AKA friction plate).

4. The "o ring" seems to be the culprit of the leaking from the engine -- mentioned by both John Z and a BMW tech. Fortunately, mine didn't leak.

5. The cost of the repair, just the wearable clutch parts and NOT the siebenrock clutch, came to $425 from Cross Country BMW in NJ (the two plates, spring and circlip) BEFORE tax or shipping. That was net of a 10% discount -- the parts guy was nice enough to extend this to me. They also suggested that I replace the push rod but chose not to as it seems the spring was the weakest material vs. the push rod itself -- this would add about $50 to the parts list.

6. IMPORTANT -- The two plates have a "white line" painted on their sides and need to be mated 180 degrees apart (or as close to opposite of each other). I only found this out by talking with a BMW tech.

7. A BMW tech highly suggested to using Honda's spline lube on the spline as well as on the plate's outside ridges that come in contact with the clutch spring (the funny looking disk in the assembly. Don't use a lot of it as it is meant to "cover" metal.

8. On the reassembly, this is another story. I have not gone down this path as I am waiting on parts. Although, a BMW tech told me yesterday that I needed to have a clutch alignment tool -- John Z. thinks otherwise; he gave me some great suggestions on this process (get four M8 bolts that go in the tranny and cut off the heads. Screw these in and then guide the tranny back on to the bell housing -- of course don't use the OEM ones; but I knew that you knew that .

9. I will most likely "wash" the tranny with something "non-caustic" to avoid damage to the any seals -- you just need to cover and protect any lines and open areas.

I hope this helps you should you ever take on this project. All I can say is thank you to everyone who has chimed in on this process. I also want to give a HUGE shout out to John Z., Mike H., Bob. R and Rob S. -- all your support has been fantastic.

Wrencher Extraordinaire
13,780 Posts
Number 6 is in the manual and actually the goal is 120 degrees for the housing , pressure plate and clutch cover. But don't fuss too much with it as I could not do that with the new parts. There was no way to line them up 120 degrees apart and I suffered no vibration.

Spline lube should be very light and on the tranny shaft only. If you apply it to the clutch plate then slide the tranny shaft through it it will push out the lube and it could get on the clutch disc.

You should also use new bolts for the clutch cover installation.
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