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Discussion Starter #1
It was a pretty easy install. Took my time (as I always do :p )

Changed both rotor and pads in just over 1 hour , taking time to wash hands about 10 times (Clean hands with brake rotors is a must IMO) and pour myself a Single malt scotch that I sipped as I did the install. (Don't try that at work)

The EBC Disc is top quality ... I like it better than the OEM and looks easily as well or better made. Drilled disc for better cooling too. The EBC HH pads are top notch as well.

Changing over the ABS Sensor ring was a snap , though I recommend heating it to remove the screws. Being that the EBC comes with new screws though , if you strip them out , your a drill bit away from removal anyway.

Removing the ring required prying it off systematically and carfully working around and around the disc until it was sufficiently loose. Installation on the EBC disc was drop right on , no tapping required. Some Red loctite and a #3 allen and your ABS ring is installed. I torqued it til the #3 long allen wrench flexed about 1/4".

Once this is done , it installed same as the original. (of course)

Pics to follow tomorrow. Time to ride. :bmw:

Ohhh ... BTW ...Took it for a ride after install . Smooth and quiet , not being too hard on the brakes for a few miles to let them bed properly. The retaining rings on the disc are the type that you see more often with spring plates on each barrel. Look heavy duty and not prone to rattle or failure like the OEM junk. Time will tell.

Now my fronts make too much noise :p
 

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Thanks Petre: I am looking forward to doing mine. I have a couple of more weeks here at work then I'll be home to do the job. Everyone I spoke with said it was a piece of cake. Looking forward to photos.
 

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Petre,
This is a really bothersome problem for me and is at the top of my list to get fixed. I really apreciate you taking the time to let us all know how it works out. Thank you! :D
 

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I was looking into the EBC rotor and pad about 3-4years ago, and remember that at that time (the rotor was listed, but not available yet) I talked so someone at EBC USA and he did not recommend the HH sintered pads with the steel rotor. The HH pads work great with the stainless steel rotors, but he said they were not good to use with their steel. He was recommending the Kevlar EBC pads.

Remember, that was quite some time ago, things may have changed in their recommendations now. Just a heads up for a POSSIBLE issue. You may wish to call EBC and speak to someone techinically knowledgeable. If you do, let us know for sure!

edited: Forgot to add, I just downloaded their catalog, and can find nothing in it relative to HH Pad/rotor compatibility.

Also, see that they are going to have FRONT pads with the anti-rattle clips installed, when the stock of FA246HH runs out. The new number will be FA407HH. No telling when the 246s will run out though. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
More than happy to contribute. You all have already helped me a great deal here as well never having had a BMW before. :bmw:

Here's a few pics of the disc
OLD vs NEW EBC DISC


ABS RING REMOVED ... pry this off carefully working your way around the disc with a pry bar.


New Disc and ABS ring installed and on Drive


EBC Double H Pads


Installed with Caliper and new pads on


I road about 100 noise free miles. So far I am VERY pleased.

I'll post more pics and a better step by step break down with wrench sizes and torques tomorrow :bmw:

1 more thing ..... Cost ... Less than $170.00 :sun:
 

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Just a quick question, is the ABS ring just kept from spinning by the interference fit or do the 3 screws add tension somehow? It looks like just the heads/shoulders of the screws hold the ring from coming off and the tight fit keeps it from spinning?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
KMC1 said:
Just a quick question, is the ABS ring just kept from spinning by the interference fit or do the 3 screws add tension somehow? It looks like just the heads/shoulders of the screws hold the ring from coming off and the tight fit keeps it from spinning?
The 3 screws are a pressure fit from above . Without them tight , the ring spins.

I think it was nothing more than brake dust and expansion/contraction over time that made the ring tight.

Don't forget the loctite :p
 

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i used ebc pads as well ...nice and quiet for about a month....started squeeeeeeeeking all over again.....crc brake quiet got them to stop squeeking
 

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Petre said:
The 3 screws are a pressure fit from above . Without them tight , the ring spins.

I think it was nothing more than brake dust and expansion/contraction over time that made the ring tight.

Don't forget the loctite :p
Thanks for the pics...

Soon as I get some time I'll get mine on order.. first I need tires... they are on the way.
 

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dshealey said:
I was looking into the EBC rotor and pad about 3-4years ago, and remember that at that time (the rotor was listed, but not available yet) I talked so someone at EBC USA and he did not recommend the HH sintered pads with the steel rotor. The HH pads work great with the stainless steel rotors, but he said they were not good to use with their steel. He was recommending the Kevlar EBC pads.
Did he give you any idea what the problem might be?
 

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Does decreasing the surface area of the disc effect the ABS?

Does it increase braking distance?

Bob
 

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jackd said:
Did he give you any idea what the problem might be?
At that time, he said the HH pads would wear out the rotor, something about the carbon steel rotor and the sintered metal pads not being the best match.

As I said, that was 3-4 years ago, don't even know if the rotor is the same material now.
 

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Theoretically, no.

ABS basically works by comparing the speed of each wheel against the other. If the wheel speed on the front is say 12 MPH and the rear is 0 MPH, the rear is locked: relieve pressure to let wheel rotate again then reapply brake force to stop. Same process is in effect for each circuit and done automagically faster than you can think about it.

Braking distance may or may not change. Drilling the rotors allows the gas from the vaporization of the brake pad material to escape, making the pads more effective. Slots serve the same purpose, and allow the dust to escape a little easier as well. The ABS system doesn't care one way or the other, it just measures wheel speed...not how the force is being applied to the disc. Drilled and/or slotted rotors will stay cooler and allow the brakes to remain functional at a high level longer than plain rotors.
 

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Drilled rotors increasing braking performance are right up there with other urban myths like cell phones causing gasoline station fires. They are nothing more than "bling".

They are, however, a wonderful marketing ploy to sell very expensive shiney new rotors to unsuspecting consumers for that "racerboy" look. For the most part - and especially in street vehicle applications - they actually DECREASE braking performance and disc life.
For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".

Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs (their most important function besides being attached to the wheel) and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past.

Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.
 

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Dang Petre now I want to go home and change mine, but it will be another couple weeks fore I can get off and go home.
 

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EBC Rotor

Petre , where did you buy your EBC rotor and pads , I need the same , mine sounds like it is going to fall off 28000 miles 28 months old BMW will not help ? Thanks Charles Fridy
 

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I purchased mine from Cyclebreaks.com ask for Shirley.

Petre it has been a short while now how are the brakes doing now?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I ordered mine from www.Bikebandit.com

Part # 5144866 EBC Rear Rotor (BMW K 1200 LT 2000-2003) - $132.05

Part # 5144865 EBC Rear Sintered Double-H Pads (BMW K 1200 LT 2000-2003) - $30.59

For the cost I can do the replacement almost 3 times compared to OEM costs.

I am very pleased with the results. Stopping power on the new rear is HUGE! Before I was afraid it was going to fly apart.

5-600 miles now and it is still nice and quiet.

Now if my front brakes would just shut up. :bmw:
 

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Installed ECB Rotor and Pads

I replaced my worn OEM rotor and pads with the ECB stuff this weekend. Thanks to Petre for blazing the way. It was a very straightforward job although I had a slightly different experience.

Petre said:
...Changing over the ABS Sensor ring was a snap , though I recommend heating it to remove the screws. Being that the EBC comes with new screws though , if you strip them out , your a drill bit away from removal anyway.

Removing the ring required prying it off systematically and carfully working around and around the disc until it was sufficiently loose.
My sensor ring would not budge. I tried a bit of penetrating oil - no luck, heating - no luck. Went the other direction and stuck it in the freezer for 45 minutes, a little bit of movement, a bit more, it's off!!

Everything reassembled like a dream. I'm still in the breakin period (no hard braking) but it is quite as can be and much better stopping the the old worn out brakes.
 

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Well well. I arrived home last night. this am rode the beerburner around the block. Put her up in the carport and started taking it apart. about 3 hours total time. I had to drill the screws out holding the abs ring on. When I ordered the rotor Shirley suggested Galfer black semi metalic pads. WOW WOW WOW what a difference no more cow bell. She stops as good or better than before it is hard to tell cause my pads were worn down to nothing. So it was time for change anyway.

ebc rotor...$132.00
Pads.........$15.00
shipping.....$13.50
total.........$160.50

oem rotor..$350.00

What can I say.
 
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