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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. As I wrote in another thread, I experienced a "classic". Slave cylinder gave up @ 60000 miles. I noticed it through weird behavior of clutch. Replaced the slave and drilled the weep hole immediately but now under "heavy duty testing" the clutch is slipping as expected (guess?).

Question: There is an (maybe?) "urban" legend @ Finnish BMW-forum of somebody having succeeded in "burning" the brake fluid from the slipping clutch. Can anybody confirm experience of such? Has anybody succeeded in recovering from slipping clutch without rebuild?

I so would not like to spend the summer stripping LT down AGAIN - and even further....
 

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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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If the slave cyl was leaking & you DID NOT also replace the clutch when you replaced the Slave Cyl then you just waisted your time. Once the clutch gets wet it MUST be replaced.
 

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From what I have read on this site, the clutch isn't that robust and slipping it will shorten it's life. On the other hand it is slipping and it's already on life support.

Something to consider if you decide to try to burn it dry, you could damage the pressure plate and flywheel. They are tough so the risk is not high but still there.

I guess I would try slipping it a little to see if that helps, but be prepared to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
katnapinn said:
If the slave cyl was leaking & you DID NOT also replace the clutch when you replaced the Slave Cyl then you just waisted your time. Once the clutch gets wet it MUST be replaced.
This is not the answer I wanted to hear :) Even though prepared for it... :mad: It was not slipping before the renewal of slave cylinder - but I did not drive it that hard then. Me thinks - I will try to burn it away - let us see what happens. I do have the clutch rebuild to be done anyway.... In best case I am able to prolong that... Still waiting to hear somebody telling - "yes I did it"
 

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After I replaced my clutch and the main output shaft seal, my clutch got contaminated because the synthetic oil that the repair shop used was weeping past the seal. I told them specifically to use mineral oil, but they did not listen :mad:

I flushed out the "clutch cavity" several times with Brake Clean through the weep hole. I'd flush it thoroughly, work the clutch for a bit, flush again, repeat, repeat, repeat. Did this about 5 times or so. For about the first month, it would only slip on rare occasions, particularly when the machine was getting pretty damn hot. When it did, I went back and flushed it again.
It's now been about 10,000 km's, and the clutch is working fine. Hot, cold, extremely hard twists on the throttle in any gear at any RPM, and the clutch works just fine.
HOWEVER, that was a new clutch. On a used clutch it might just be better to replace it.
I could have had the the repair shop replace the clutch, and they would have with no argument at all, but that shop treats me extremely well, and it was the first time in many, many years they had made a mistake, and really, it's not hard to forget the mineral oil thing when everyone and their dog these days wants nothing but synthetic. But I thought I would try and make their lives a little easier and suggested that course of action, because changing out that clutch is NOT a easy job whatsoever.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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The LT clutch is very easy to slip. The real test on IF it is worn or contaminated is the 5th gear test. Get up to highway speed in 5th gear (4,000 or so RPM) and roll on the throttle. If you get an immediate increase in RPM with no acceleration you have a worn or contaminated clutch. If it doesn't do it then you are OK.
 

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jzeiler said:
The LT clutch is very easy to slip. The real test on IF it is worn or contaminated is the 5th gear test. Get up to highway speed in 5th gear (4,000 or so RPM) and roll on the throttle. If you get an immediate increase in RPM with no acceleration you have a worn or contaminated clutch. If it doesn't do it then you are OK.
Absolutely true about the 5th gear test. After the initial flushing I did, everything seemed fine except for the high rev 5th gear part on occasion, particularly when I had ridden for an extended period of time, carrying a decent load, in very warm temperatures. After a couple of more flushes, it was just fine. I continue to monitor the situation, and I continue to do the 5th gear test often.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
jzeiler said:
The LT clutch is very easy to slip. The real test on IF it is worn or contaminated is the 5th gear test. Get up to highway speed in 5th gear (4,000 or so RPM) and roll on the throttle. If you get an immediate increase in RPM with no acceleration you have a worn or contaminated clutch. If it doesn't do it then you are OK.
Exactly the procedure I did today and noticed clutch slipping. Now I am wondering can I live with it this summer... I don't have time and money to spend on that right now in the middle of vacation season.
 

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Enjoy The Ride
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When mine got contaminated with oil I just rode it easy enough not to slip the clutch for about a month and now it is fine again. I'm not sure about the brake fluid.
 

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Unless you are planning a long ride where you would get stranded far from home, why not just ride it and see what happens? If the clutch heals itself, then great. If not, nothing lost. Just don't ride it with the clutch actively slipping. Downshift and slow down if you get prolonged slippage.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Mine was worn and only slightly oil contaminated (not soaked) and I made several trips that fall before tearing it down. Bear in mind I would test it each ride and it would only do the slip once and it would not slip again if I tried it right away (The 5th gear test). I just kept riding it until it would slip every time I tried it.
 

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When my clutch slipped I replaced it immediately. The copper strands in the clutch were coming apart already. It might have shelled if I had continued to ride it. It might have ruined the pressure plate as well. As it was I reused the pressure plate and just had to buy the clutch disc itself.
 

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rattler50 said:
When my clutch slipped I replaced it immediately. The copper strands in the clutch were coming apart already. It might have shelled if I had continued to ride it. It might have ruined the pressure plate as well. As it was I reused the pressure plate and just had to buy the clutch disc itself.
Did you do yours yourself?
 

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C-A-D said:
Thanks for all replies. So I will continue to ride it. No longer trips planned and insurance & road service covers possible towing home. If it lasts this summer, I'll do the clutch during next winter.

Mine was like this too, but it completely went out when i was riding up hills. Just slipped until the RPMs didn't matter anymore. Downshifted to no avail, just had to pull of to the side of the road and go get my truck and trailer it home. :(
 

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has anyone rebuilt the slave cylinder? If so, what o-ring did you use. I replaced my clutch last weekend and now the bearing in the tranny is destroyed. I make the fatal mistake of not replacing all of the seals in the tranny. Gear oil contaminated the clutch and destroyed it as well as the push rod. I am worried that my slave cylinder o-ring is damaged. Should I just purchase a new one? Your thoughts.
 
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