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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ordered one of the Siebenrock oil-resistant clutch disks from Germany, 'cause I know I'm going to wear out this disk at some point.
Good time to do it now, because the Aussie is so strong against the Euro (Au$1 ~ 0.85 Euro).
Order specs online at Siebenrock were:
1 pc. * 2122456 * Clutch disc oil-resistant K1200LT 1998-2008, 180mm TOURING * Euro 166,39
1 * 1444 g * Postage and packing Australia * Euro 27,85
total net€ : 194,24
which came to : AU$229.83 plus a $6.89 bank foreign transaction fee.

I had to chase them up after a week because I'd gotten an email about the order, but no shipping notice or charge. 2 days later they shipped and emailed to advise.. just waiting for it to arrive.
 

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You are getting brave :D

I ordered my EBC rear rotor (finally). Hopefully it will arrive this week. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I never said I was going to put it in.... ;)
... but that depends on how long this one takes to go.

Did you order new rear pads too?
 

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cws said:
Did you order new rear pads too?
Aww ya neva said I had to do that! Now I have to save up for them :mad:
 

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So what's the advantage of the oil resistant clutch Chris ? If oil gets on it, the clutch will still slip, a given I presume. So the clutch plate will then need to be removed to fix the leaking oil seal and de-oiled to prevent slippage in the future. I guess my real question is, how will the clutch either not slip with oil present, and if it does slip, won't heat be the killer of it anyway ? Does anyone have experience with obvious benefits proven by this clutch under failure conditions ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Read the many threads on "Siebenrock" and you tell me Dennis.. :confused: seemed like a good idea while our $$ is so hot.
I'm pretty sure I have a clutch plate that is not completely happy after that big trip... I baby it at takeoff as it feels like it's starting to slip if I give it a little extra too quickly, but its not slipping in 5th as far as I can tell.
Burnt out my first one at 16k..... this one's at 90k+ on the bike.
Call it an insurance policy... if I've got it in the cupboard, my current clutch plate will last forever... :rotf:
 

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Chris, I don't doubt that these are an excellent product, or they wouldn't (continue) to sell. I'm just really curious about the theory behind why they are better than a standard clutch plate when the leaking oil is really the problem. I guess from my industrial background I'm struggling with the oil on the clutch plate thing. I might do some more research, but hopefully I'll not need any sort of clutch plate for a long time yet. I do tend to baby the clutch on take-off, never revving it above 1500, less most of the time. Pretty good engine in that respect, doesn't easily stall, which will cause the big girl to lie down if it occurs, not good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got my little "lucky" clutch plate today... arrived last week but I've been off work.
Surprised to see how little you get for your money with a clutch plate.
I'll tuck into bed in the cupboard of bits and pieces... and hopefully will never need it..... (wishfull thinking) :rolleyes:
 

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Chris, do you have a way of accurately measiring the new total thickness of the clutch plate ? (Vernier). From memory the K100 was 5.5 mm when new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got an old micrometer-caliper at home (my dad was a mechanic in his younger years) that is still useful enough. I've been using it to check my brake rotors.
I'll try to measure it tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If i'm reading the caliper correctly, its about 0.242" which is around 6.15mm .....?
 

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Thanks Chris, I'll add that little detail to my files. I must admit I struggle with this clutch wear issue, but I guess if you look at the overall gearing in 1st, and the mass of the bike, that is in fact the answer/reason. The clutch is basically the same as a VW Beetle (type 1), and they never fail, but at a maximum 5500 rpm, the old VeeDub was pulling a wicked 25 mph, not 62 mph plus. So the gearing is always going to be the telling factor in that the clutch can get slipped for quite some seconds at a relatively high differential speed gainst the pressure plate and flywheel, and bingo, toasted clutch plate. Just like the V8 Supercars getting off the line, same problem, tall gearing in first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
K100Dennis said:
So the gearing is always going to be the telling factor in that the clutch can get slipped for quite some seconds at a relatively high differential speed against the pressure plate and flywheel, and bingo, toasted clutch plate.
BTDT within the first 16,000km on the bike :(.
It stinks when its burning!
 
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