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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Near future first time BMW owner looking at a 90000 mile 2007 r1200rt needs a new rear main seal and rear brake pads and rotor. I suppose the clutch while i'm in there. I am not profoundly mechanically inclined but I am persistent and have access to a good shop.
Can probably get the bike for 3000.00 Weigh this knowing I have champagne taste on a kool-aide budget.
Any comments, suggestions or other advise is welcome.

Thanks
 

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At 90,000 miles it may also require a new clutch slave cylinder and pivot bearings in the para-lever final drive assembly. Would also look at the drive shaft u-joints to see what condition they are in.
 

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$3k is probably about part out value assuming the bike hasn't been wrecked. That would be a great deal from the way you are describing the bike.
 

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Hi All,

Near future first time BMW owner looking at a 90000 mile 2007 r1200rt needs a new rear main seal and rear brake pads and rotor. I suppose the clutch while i'm in there. I am not profoundly mechanically inclined but I am persistent and have access to a good shop.
Can probably get the bike for 3000.00 Weigh this knowing I have champagne taste on a kool-aide budget.
Any comments, suggestions or other advise is welcome.

Thanks
Don't get it.
Buy another bike with a much lower mileage and get on it and ride it.
By the time you have bought it, bought the parts (which are very expensive but necessary), found the other bits that will need work on them etc, it will be a huge drain on your purse.
This is money that could get you a real gem of a bike.
 

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If you are looking forward to working on the bike it is probably a good buy. It may not even need much but it kind of sounds like you are interested in opening her up. Or you could find another beemer like a R1100/1150 RT or even an airhead with less miles for around the same amount on either IBMWRA marketplace or even Ebay. I notice there are some LT's on our classified if you aren't stuck on getting a R bike. There are some nice K bikes out there from the K-75's on up which you would probably be able to get for a reasonable amount with less miles. So whichever way you go I think you'll be happy and of course we will have assimilated another one into the BMW community (almost said Borg there). Have fun and stay safe
 

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It's nine years old. If it were me I'd go a little older and get an 1150. Lots of guys still ride the 1150s and swear by them. I'd have to agree as I had one back in 2004. A project bike like you mention sounds like you won't be on the road this summer and if that's what you want go for it, but I'd rather ride. Pay a little more and get one that's in good condition since you'll be spending a good chuck on parts anyway. BMW parts are not cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks everyone for your input. I am definitely looking at the 1100 and 1150 as well. People are still very proud of these but there are some good deals out there. Also like the k1200rs (apples and oranges).
 

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How is this a project bike? it needs a rear main seal, which is a few bucks and a weekend of work, and maybe a clutch depending on how the condition of the friction disk. I spent $65 shipped on a complete clutch set up from a bike with 29k on it, the disk measured 6mm - just like new. This isn't a "project", it's an innexpensive job if you are mechanically inclined.
$3k is about what someone loses in depreciation in a couple years after buying a newer, low mile bike, or the depreciation hit taken immediately buying a new RT. $3k and a weekend of work is a ridiculously low price to pay for a r1200rt, especially an '07. $3k will buy you an r1100RT with 50k miles plus, and to be honest I'd take a 90k mile r1200rt over a low mile 1100 or 1150 rt all day long. Why would he want a $3k K12LT? those bikes have WAY more potentially expensive problems than the 12RT.
If you have the tools and skills (it's no skill really, I didn't even use a manual, just read an advrider thread no it), the bike runs and looks good with no salvage title, $3k is a steal.
 

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You know, after getting down to Eriks post it makes a lot of sense. If I was wanting to invest little into a project this might be a good way to go. The 1100 and 1150 are good bikes but I too would rather have the 1200rt.
 

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You know, after getting down to Eriks post it makes a lot of sense. If I was wanting to invest little into a project this might be a good way to go. The 1100 and 1150 are good bikes but I too would rather have the 1200rt.
I'm assuming the OP is mechanically inclined, and knows what to look for. I'm also assuming the bike is rideable, so he can see if the gears work smoothly and the abs pump is fine, that sort of thing. He also wants to see if there is play in the final drive and that it isn't leaking.
If the only things that are wrong with it are the ones listed in his first post, and he can do the work, $3k is a gift. The value would probably double after he takes care of these minor, inexpensive problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey, thanks for your comments. This bike is at a dealership and and I think they are just looking to unload it rather than spend the time and money. I will certainly investigate further. If it is in fact ride-able I may just ride it till the weather sets in and work on it over the winter. It has been suggested that I replace the clutch while it's cracked open anyway.
 

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If you do replace the clutch I'd use something like this 21k mile clutch assembly for $89 shipped http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-BMW-R1...595-/231499980281?hash=item35e6795df9&vxp=mtr
Those are the guys I bought mine from, they take really nice low mile bikes and part them out, and you can view videos of them before they get dismantled. You can also find a rear rotor on Ebay cheap. New seals, fluids, brake pads, spark plugs, alt belt, air filter and from the sounds of it you could get this in nice running condition for $200-$300. Even if you need new tires you are looking at very minimal money for an R1200RT. Typically what goes in the final drive is the crown bearing, which you could pay to have replaced for a grand or so. Guys have done it themselves, and there are threads on it around. Good condition, returnable final drives can also be found on Ebay for a few hundred.
 

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If you do replace the clutch I'd use something like this 21k mile clutch assembly for $89 shipped http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-BMW-R1...595-/231499980281?hash=item35e6795df9&vxp=mtr
Those are the guys I bought mine from, they take really nice low mile bikes and part them out, and you can view videos of them before they get dismantled. You can also find a rear rotor on Ebay cheap. New seals, fluids, brake pads, spark plugs, alt belt, air filter and from the sounds of it you could get this in nice running condition for $200-$300. Even if you need new tires you are looking at very minimal money for an R1200RT. Typically what goes in the final drive is the crown bearing, which you could pay to have replaced for a grand or so. Guys have done it themselves, and there are threads on it around. Good condition, returnable final drives can also be found on Ebay for a few hundred.
If you get it I'd be glad to help with tips splitting the bike, just pm me anytime.
 

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If you do replace the clutch I'd use something like this 21k mile clutch assembly for $89 shipped 2005 BMW R1200GS Clutch Assembly Pressure Plate Housing 21217702595 | eBay
Those are the guys I bought mine from, they take really nice low mile bikes and part them out, and you can view videos of them before they get dismantled. You can also find a rear rotor on Ebay cheap. New seals, fluids, brake pads, spark plugs, alt belt, air filter and from the sounds of it you could get this in nice running condition for $200-$300. Even if you need new tires you are looking at very minimal money for an R1200RT. Typically what goes in the final drive is the crown bearing, which you could pay to have replaced for a grand or so. Guys have done it themselves, and there are threads on it around. Good condition, returnable final drives can also be found on Ebay for a few hundred.
Erik - when my crown bearing went out at 70K it was a $500 job at the local dealer, parts and labor (I think it was 3.5 hours at $106/hr). I suppose if you get into it and need to replace ring and pinion it might get closer to $1000, but for the same amount of money if it's just the crown bearing I'd prefer to have a repaired FD that I know the history on.

If I didn't already have one renovation going I'd be tempted to take this one on as a money maker. Like you said, a few parts and you'd have a really nice driver.

And if you're planning to keep it, yeah, as long as you have it open, I'd replace the clutch pack. If you're not planning to keep it, button it back up. 90K isn't that unreasonable on a clutch.

JayJay
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think i am going to go local with a 98 k1200rs with extras instead of having to go KY to NH to get the r 1200 rt. The K bike needs a clutch and has 110000 miles on it. The guy is asking 1500.00. this will give me a cushion to work with which I won't have with the other bike. If I can flip this one pretty quickly maybe I can go after the rt if it is still around.
I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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