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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hmmm. I put a new, stronger, revised shift linkage on about one year ago, in hopes of eliminating the breakage issue. On the way home last night, it broke, right at the shift lever (first heim joint). No hard shifts,and no other issures. It left me in second gear, to ride 12 miles home.
Any words of wisdom, or other issues to look for ? All the other linkage loos fine. I had just returned from a 400 miles trip into Arkansas this last weekend ,and had checked the linkage before leaving, and all was tight. All opinions welcome. ;)
Jeff
 

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One mans easy shift is another mans kick. It's important for the ball joints not to be stressed with the side plate installed, so checking the alignment of the linkage is important as it can bind if the joints are not aligned properly when the nuts get tightened. Also, many folks are prone to "tapping" the shifter when the bike hesitates to go into first gear. If that sounds familiar, try putting light pressure on the shifter as you feather out the clutch. It'll slip right in gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will say, I am pretty careful, but..........I must admit I did not check alignment of the heim joints fully.
The upper joint needed retightening twice, but the bottom was seeminly good. I will pull it tonight and look. Thank goodness I still have another bike to ride, although it is a little less wind protection. (ZRX 1200)
Thanks for the input
 

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wolfflow said:
Hmmm. I put a new, stronger, revised shift linkage on about one year ago, in hopes of eliminating the breakage issue. On the way home last night, it broke, right at the shift lever (first heim joint). No hard shifts,and no other issures. It left me in second gear, to ride 12 miles home.
Any words of wisdom, or other issues to look for ? All the other linkage loos fine. I had just returned from a 400 miles trip into Arkansas this last weekend ,and had checked the linkage before leaving, and all was tight. All opinions welcome. ;)
Jeff
Did you come to BMW from Harley? :)

I always cringe when I watch some Harley riders that literally kick the shift lever to change gears. Never understood that.
 

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Enjoy The Ride
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The weak link on any of the different linkages is if they come loose. As long as all the linkage threads stay tight they are pretty reliable. That goes for the BMW linkage & the aftermarket linkages as well. The advantage on some of the aftermarket linkage's is that you don't need to lube them.

I prefer the stock BMW linkage because of the ease to remove the linkage & the rider foot plate to inspect the ball studs & lube them. I do this at least twice a year on my LT's.

I have purchased & carry both of the aftermarket HD linkage kits (1999 to 2004 & 2005 to 2009 ) with me on all of my trips. I also carry spare parts for the stock linkage.

With either kit if the threads come loose you can have a failure.
 

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I installed the aftermarket linkage after breaking my original in a panic stop. They are great and have no slack in them. It's a tight, smooth shift now.......I recommend them for sure....... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, after closer inspection, it snapped off at the necked down area between the ball and start of threads. The ball end of the stock linkage is MUCH larger than the replacement I had installed. I will look close a little more often. :thumb:
 

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One recommendation is not to use heat to loosen the loctite on the left over stud, go ahead and remove the linkage and get it out. I melted the inside of my clutch hose ($132 part) and am hopefully going to get it put back together this weekend. I found a way to change it without pulling the drive shaft but it has been a pain as basically the bike has to be pretty stripped down (gives me an excuse to do a 12k check though) and I used a long 1/4 " extension with a universal socket to hold the hex key stud after super-gluing the washers to the hose and bolt. I was able to reach it with the left foot peg plate removed and holding my tongue just right. Hopefully this wont happen to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No, it was all good. The lower ball/stud is what broke on mine. I removed the footpeg assy., and took the shifter off, to drill/EZ out the remains. I put the stocker back on. It all worked quite well on the way to work this morning.
Now, to wash and clean it. It's been 'buggified" by my trip to Arkansas last weekend. :eek:
 

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Just remember, time spent washing and polishing is time spent NOT riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
deputy5211 said:
Just remember, time spent washing and polishing is time spent NOT riding.
You sound just like my ridin' buddy. On a trip ,me on the Beemer, him on a new Goldwing , he told me. "I'll wash it when I'm finished riding for the trip". 2500 miles later, his got a bath. :dance:
 

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I gave mine a thorough cleaning back in July when it was apart for a clutch replacement.

I keep the screen, mirrors, and lights clean, and I make sure my butt gets in the saddle often enough to keep it clean, too. :dance:
 

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Diolach said:
One recommendation is not to use heat to loosen the loctite on the left over stud, go ahead and remove the linkage and get it out. I melted the inside of my clutch hose ($132 part) and am hopefully going to get it put back together this weekend. I found a way to change it without pulling the drive shaft but it has been a pain as basically the bike has to be pretty stripped down (gives me an excuse to do a 12k check though) and I used a long 1/4 " extension with a universal socket to hold the hex key stud after super-gluing the washers to the hose and bolt. I was able to reach it with the left foot peg plate removed and holding my tongue just right. Hopefully this wont happen to you.
I was wondering how that worked out - glad you got OK.
 
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