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Discussion Starter #1
i bought an 2003 BMW K1200LTE as the price was killer but I knew id have a bunch of work to do as there was no service record. I always do all of my own work as well so I am pretty well equiped. Since I have no records on what has and has not been done on this bike, where should I start and what should I be looking at replacing/refurbishing? the final drive is just starting to leak a very small amount (few drops after a 100 mile ride is all). I know I will be replacing all the fluids and filters and that more than likely I will have to rebuild the final drive but what else inside the motor needs to be done? Typically timing chains clutches etc need be done but some help here sorting out what should be done would be great. Basiclly I want to do everything all at once so I do not have to worry about it this summer. Thanks
 

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What you'll need to do will most certainly depend on how many miles are on the bike. Don't think you need to worry about timing chains until you get higher mileage. With respect to your final drive, you'll need to drain it and inspect the magnetic plug for metal. Any chunks and you're toast.
You didn't mention if the spare final drive unit you got was rebuilt - correctly. If not, consider sending it out to have it done, or do it yourself, swap them out and check the original.
 

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It is hard to give advice not knowing the mileage of your LT, but other than replacing filters and fluids, brake and clutch fluids, and coolant you should be OK.
If high mileage you should consider preemptive replacement of the clutch slave cylinder and drill the weep hole.
Your final drive may or may not need rebuilding, but a leak is not an indication of that either way.
 

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Depending on milage, I would change the plugs, test the plug wires, check the Valve clearance (Lash), and maybe change the timing chain tensoner lining.
Should be done before 100K.
 

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All of the above are very good bits of advice.

When you say no service records are you talking from the seller or a dealer from the original purchase. How about an owner's service manual for that year and comparing what needs to be done and at what milage interval? I don't know but did your 100 mile ride reveal anything else other than the rear leak. You sound as though you can handle any service you need, my main concern is you knowing it ahead of time. We all want you to enjoy your bike and always be safe :bmw:
 

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Take the VIN number to your local BMW dealer and have them check the data base, all work done on the bike by BMW is kept in their national database.
Good luck and enjoy your ride
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok here goes....Bike has just a hair under 88k on it right now. I have yet to pull the boot to see where the fluid is actually comming from but I need to replace the brake pads (both front and rear0 today so I will check when I do this. I am the 2nd owner and the original owner did all of his own service so there are no dealer records on upkeep nor did the owner keep records on what he had done himself. I have had this bike now for about a year and have put about 20k on it with no issues whatsoever but as I knew I didnt know what had and had not been done I thought id ask here so I could plan out my attack on it. The leak at the lowest portion of the boot is deff gear oil (I know the FD and trans use the same fluid) but as yet I do not know where exactly its comming from. the 2nd final drive I bought came off a wrecked bike and I will be rebuilding it to swap out the one on there now. Unfortunatly all of this must wait (unless the bike brakes) for about a month so I can get my vstars motor reinstalled (I wont be without wheels heh) but once this is done the beemer goes up on the lift to have all of its service done. I will be changing all the fluids and filters and whatever is the cuase of the leak at the FD boot. What else should I be looking to do? the clutch is still quite strong and isnt a concern yet.
 

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First, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, unless it's a Harley, then fix it 'till it's broke.
That means that I wouldn't worry about the clutch yet. Would check the valve adjustment, and I think most dealers would suggest that you check the timing chain adjuster. Get your weep holes drilled too.
Change out all your fluids (brake, radiator, oils etc. You'll have wheels off for tires and brakes, so you can check wheel bearings then.
I suppose you could consider the rear main seal swap, slave valve etc., but I'd only do that if you really wanted to tear into for no better reason than your own personal satisfaction. Can't say I'd recommend it though, as lots of these bikes make it well into the 100,000+ miles without needing anything. Your call there.
 

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88K isn't that much for an LT. If it were me I'd do a complete fluid change and major service so I'd know where I stood on the maint schedule. I would then address the items our members have come up with to fix known issues and prevent future problems such as the slave cylinder and weep hole. Other than that I would just ride it and deal with whatever comes up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I do not know why i didnt put this 1st as this is the bigest issue....gas millage. Last summer I was getting 40-45mpg and as of today (the last ride of about 100 miles or so) I am only getting around 30....a bit higher sometimes. I am going to assume valve lash needs adjustment badly? What else should I look at here?
 

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Drumbum said:
I do not know why i didnt put this 1st as this is the bigest issue....gas millage. Last summer I was getting 40-45mpg and as of today (the last ride of about 100 miles or so) I am only getting around 30....a bit higher sometimes. I am going to assume valve lash needs adjustment badly? What else should I look at here?
Ole Toad's gas mileage, at 120k+, wuz mid to upper 30s. Changed out the exhaust oxygen sensor, a valve adjustment (several were on the tight end) and mileage improved a bit - into the low 40s. Next, we're gonna change spark plugs and fuel filter and Techron the injectors. Might improve a tad more!!

BTW - if you don't have a maintenance schedule, there is one in the HoW pages. Click here for a pdf read copy and you can print out several for record keeping. Have way much fun in the wrenching department!! And welcome to the institution!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
blast went to change out my brake pads and I do not have the calipre piston reseting tool. The one I use on cars is too big and for single calipers not quads....oh well guess I will either have to make one, order one or see if anyone on tomrows BMW club season opener ride has one (probably the latter as there is enough pad left for tomorows ride but just with lights intermitantly flashing gets anoying). As to millage I was getting about 40-44 all last year and in the last 6 months (havent ridden much due to weather) it dropped to low 30's. Thanks for the heads up on the schedual I will have to get it caught up. The cam chain rail for the vstar just arrived so I can now finish it and get this baby up on the lift for as short a time as possible (a cruiser is a cruiser, a sport tourer is a sport tourer, and a beemer is just that :) So a big drop like that is typical on these when they are screamin for service? Thanks
 

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Drumbum said:
blast went to change out my brake pads and I do not have the calipre piston reseting tool. The one I use on cars is too big and for single calipers not quads....oh well guess I will either have to make one, order one or see if anyone on tomrows BMW club season opener ride has one (probably the latter as there is enough pad left for tomorows ride but just with lights intermitantly flashing gets anoying). As to millage I was getting about 40-44 all last year and in the last 6 months (havent ridden much due to weather) it dropped to low 30's. Thanks for the heads up on the schedual I will have to get it caught up. The cam chain rail for the vstar just arrived so I can now finish it and get this baby up on the lift for as short a time as possible (a cruiser is a cruiser, a sport tourer is a sport tourer, and a beemer is just that :) So a big drop like that is typical on these when they are screamin for service? Thanks
I never use a caliper piston resetting tool on the LT, just a big screwdriver with a rag around the blade that I insert between the old pads and the rotor to push the pistons back in before removing the old pads. If you removed the calipers and pistons you can use a regular pair of pliers and use them backward, meaning you place the pliers between the calipers and open them instead of squeezing them. Bigger pliers work better. Just work slowly. Caution: if you ever added brake fluid since your last pad change you will likely overflow the reservoir so you need to remove some fluid with a baster first. if you did not add fluid then don't worry.
Note: your brake fluid is likely in dire need to be replaced, so you may want to add that to your list. Same with clutch hydraulic system.
Also +1 on what Dick said re. the O2 sensor; that should take care of the poor gas mileage.
 

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Drumbum said:
I do not know why i didnt put this 1st as this is the bigest issue....gas millage. Last summer I was getting 40-45mpg and as of today (the last ride of about 100 miles or so) I am only getting around 30....a bit higher sometimes. I am going to assume valve lash needs adjustment badly? What else should I look at here?
Mine dropped from 42 to 27 on a long trip to CCR in South Dakota. As low as 22 when 2-up and pulling a trailer.
When sitting at a light,do you smell unburned gas? I would almost choke at the lights.
System goes full rich when o2 sensor goes out.

Don't need a tool for piston pushback. Unbolt,rock side to side to push to back enough to remove caliper from wheel. Big screwdriver to pry pads apart. No rag as I am throwing them away.

dan
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I removed the cover from the res on the right handelbar and then proceeded to use plyers and screwdrives to try to push them appart. The issue I am having is that all of the pistons move just fine but when one goes in one of the ones on the other side goes out. I cant hold one side while pushing the other to increase the room between the pads. If I had another set of hands I might be able to swing it but atm I am not having any luck. I tried using a bid flat head to jam between the pads while I squeezed one of the pistons but I could not get them to move in rather than just change positions with eachother. Is there a "over the counter" replacement for the o2 sensor or must I buy from BMW? I thought I read somewhere here that there was a bosch i could get at the autoparts store. How hard is it to replace? IE do I have to remove plastic to get to it or is it easy access? Thanks
 
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