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I phoned around here in Edmonton and found that PartSource can get me K&N air filter # BM-1299 for my '01 K1200lt for $57 +tax. The oil filter is # KN-163 and is $12.99. I was told by my parts guy at BMW that the gas filter may be able to be bought at any standard parts store, but I don't know a fram or purolator # yet. If anyone knows it, that would be great if you could tell me. The metal replacement fuel quick disconnects at BMW are $18 each, but I have been told by riders on here that any parts store with 5/16 brass connectors will work, and are $3 each plus clamps. Is this true? We can save money by buying parts from other sources if we share info. Thanks guys!
Kevin
 

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kronson said:
I phoned around here in Edmonton and found that PartSource can get me K&N air filter # BM-1299 for my '01 K1200lt for $57 +tax. The oil filter is # KN-163 and is $12.99. I was told by my parts guy at BMW that the gas filter may be able to be bought at any standard parts store, but I don't know a fram or purolator # yet. If anyone knows it, that would be great if you could tell me. The metal replacement fuel quick disconnects at BMW are $18 each, but I have been told by riders on here that any parts store with 5/16 brass connectors will work, and are $3 each plus clamps. Is this true? We can save money by buying parts from other sources if we share info. Thanks guys!
Kevin
I would be leery of a K&N filter if they are esigned anything like their car filters (oiled foam). Two reasons:
1. The K&N filters almost always flow more dirt than stock paper element filters along with their greater air flow.
2. The oil can foul sensors in the FI system.

I haven't seen a K&N filter for the LT, so maybe it isn't oiled foam, but if it is...
 

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kronson said:
I phoned around here in Edmonton and found that PartSource can get me K&N air filter # BM-1299 for my '01 K1200lt for $57 +tax. The oil filter is # KN-163 and is $12.99. I was told by my parts guy at BMW that the gas filter may be able to be bought at any standard parts store, but I don't know a fram or purolator # yet. If anyone knows it, that would be great if you could tell me. The metal replacement fuel quick disconnects at BMW are $18 each, but I have been told by riders on here that any parts store with 5/16 brass connectors will work, and are $3 each plus clamps. Is this true? We can save money by buying parts from other sources if we share info. Thanks guys!
Kevin
I bought a six-pack of oil filters/o-rings as well as crush gaskets for the trans and FD from Beemerboneyard; I don't recall the price but the oil filters were less than $12.99 each.

I use the K&N air filter; 16k miles on it now and have not found any dirt/dust deposits on the downside of the filter. It's the cotton fabric type, typical K&N. Clean, dry, oil (but not too much).

The QDs I bought from a link posted on this forum. Get the extra o-rings; I bought 100 spares and needed one 2-weeks ago when I installed the RhineWest chip.
 

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Voyager said:
I would be leery of a K&N filter if they are esigned anything like their car filters (oiled foam). Two reasons:
1. The K&N filters almost always flow more dirt than stock paper element filters along with their greater air flow.
2. The oil can foul sensors in the FI system.

I haven't seen a K&N filter for the LT, so maybe it isn't oiled foam, but if it is...
One major correction: K&N does NOT use "oiled foam". They use a fiber media (most likely a cotton/poly blend) permanently trapped between wire mesh.

Since I live in the dust capital of North America:

I've run K&N filters since new in my 1988 Chevy Dually with 210,00 miles, my 1992 Ford 1 ton van with 120,000 miles, my 2002 Mercedes 320 with 40,000 miles and my wife's 2002 Honda CRV with 45,000 miles. Also my 1993 Mazda RX7 twin turbo with 85,000 miles. You know how sensitive turbos are to dirty air. None of them burn any oil, (except the rotary which is designed to) and I've never had any issues with sensors. The Chevy has the original throttle bodies still going strong. I always toss in a bottle of Techron every few years right before an oil change that I buy at Costco for about half what I can buy it for at a Chevron station.

The only two that are really easy to see deep into the throttle body or fi system are the Chevy and the Mercedes - they are as clean as a whistle.

I also run one on my blimp! (yeah, I have a real airship and commercial rating to go along with it)

I figure going with the K&N's has literally saved me hundreds of dollars over the life of these vehicles, with absolutely no adverse effects. I'm also not throwing dozens of filters into the landfill.

I would run them on all my bikes but generally speaking they have not offered what I needed, with a few exceptions the past several years, as they have ventured more into two wheel territory.

I would imagine any issues reported have to do with under oiling - which of course will let fine particulates through - or over oiling which may allow some excess to get sucked in. A lot of back yard hacks use transmission fluid on the media since it looks and tastes like the K&N fluid, and of course costs about 80% less. The K&N fluid is definitely tackier and more viscous.

My .02 cents worth. ;)
 

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Hi all,
I just put in a oem fuel filter after doing a lot of searching to find a cheaper replacement. Wix crosses the BMW number over to a 33032 and it will fit perfect, and a lot of guys are using it or similar versions, the only problem I had with it is that it is a 20 micron filter whereas the BMW is a 5 micron, or so I'm told by other members of this forum. That means it will filter out smaller particles which should protect the injectors better.
 

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104strad said:
Hi all,
I just put in a oem fuel filter after doing a lot of searching to find a cheaper replacement. Wix crosses the BMW number over to a 33032 and it will fit perfect, and a lot of guys are using it or similar versions, the only problem I had with it is that it is a 20 micron filter whereas the BMW is a 5 micron, or so I'm told by other members of this forum. That means it will filter out smaller particles which should protect the injectors better.
I'm a bit confused by that statement.

The BMW filter is 5 micron, and the Wix is 20 micron. So the BMW will filter out smaller particles compared to the Wix, and thus is a "better" filter. It performs its function...better. That's the reason I don't use a Wix. They are cheaper, but you take a performance hit.

Or was I so confused by the original statement...

Cheers,
 

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$20,000 top of the line Touring Machine and you'all are looking to save a buck here and there on filters.

Now that I do not get.
 

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104strad said:
Hi all,
I just put in a oem fuel filter after doing a lot of searching to find a cheaper replacement. Wix crosses the BMW number over to a 33032 and it will fit perfect, and a lot of guys are using it or similar versions, the only problem I had with it is that it is a 20 micron filter whereas the BMW is a 5 micron, or so I'm told by other members of this forum. That means it will filter out smaller particles which should protect the injectors better.
You done right by staying with the 5 micron OEM filter. :thumb:

Here's the relative size of microns magnified about 500 times - the unaided human eye can detect about 40 microns:



Five microns: o :deal:

Twenty microns: o :wow:

Anyone that puts on a fuel filter on an LT with a 20 micron spec is nutz - the few bucks you save up front will lead to a VERY expensive injector rebuild/repair down the road.... Believe it or not those silly German engineers just might have a little insight into this. :think:
 

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RonKMiller said:
One major correction: K&N does NOT use "oiled foam". They use a fiber media (most likely a cotton/poly blend) permanently trapped between wire mesh.

Since I live in the dust capital of North America:

I've run K&N filters since new in my 1988 Chevy Dually with 210,00 miles, my 1992 Ford 1 ton van with 120,000 miles, my 2002 Mercedes 320 with 40,000 miles and my wife's 2002 Honda CRV with 45,000 miles. Also my 1993 Mazda RX7 twin turbo with 85,000 miles. You know how sensitive turbos are to dirty air. None of them burn any oil, (except the rotary which is designed to) and I've never had any issues with sensors. The Chevy has the original throttle bodies still going strong. I always toss in a bottle of Techron every few years right before an oil change that I buy at Costco for about half what I can buy it for at a Chevron station.

The only two that are really easy to see deep into the throttle body or fi system are the Chevy and the Mercedes - they are as clean as a whistle.

I also run one on my blimp! (yeah, I have a real airship and commercial rating to go along with it)

I figure going with the K&N's has literally saved me hundreds of dollars over the life of these vehicles, with absolutely no adverse effects. I'm also not throwing dozens of filters into the landfill.

I would run them on all my bikes but generally speaking they have not offered what I needed, with a few exceptions the past several years, as they have ventured more into two wheel territory.

I would imagine any issues reported have to do with under oiling - which of course will let fine particulates through - or over oiling which may allow some excess to get sucked in. A lot of back yard hacks use transmission fluid on the media since it looks and tastes like the K&N fluid, and of course costs about 80% less. The K&N fluid is definitely tackier and more viscous.

My .02 cents worth. ;)
I stand corrected on the K&N media type. However, I've read way too many things like this to be inclined to use a K&N filter. And since I routinely get 100,000 miles on my OEM filters, I don't think I'd save much money either.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=937061

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=180100

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=893920

http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Upgrade/Air_filter.htm

However, we each get to make the call for our own vehicles. Just as you said maybe the German engineers know a thing or two about fuel filters, I think they may also know a thing or two about air filters. I know the folks at AC/Delco do...
 

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HDusenbery said:
$20,000 top of the line Touring Machine and you'all are looking to save a buck here and there on filters.

Now that I do not get.
Me too! Can't find the "little critter icon that shakes his head back and forth" .....
 

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I too have used K&N Air Filters on all vehicles the last 15 years or so. Never an issue. My Turbo GT PT Cruiser uses a cone K&N and all pipes and catch points are spotless. My old Honda just turned 100,000 no issues. It has been in my LT since 12,000 miles. Was on my Road Glide and Sporty for 100,000 combined.

As to being cheap it is not a matter of that, I just feel they do their job, and clean and replace is better then buying new. They work better as they collect dirt and are designed to get "dirty". It is a moot point as at 12000 my OEM filter looked new. So did the fuel filter.

While I will pay for the OEM fuel filter that is it. There is no way in hell BMW air or oil filter has to cost what it does. The support the dealer feeling faded fast after 150.00 + oil changes and 6 dollar screws that I can get at ACE Hardware for 79 cents.

Just because a bike costs 22,000 does not mean you need to pay that for parts too. And the cost new means nothing, your driving a 18,000 bike the second you drive off the lot! No one will take care of your bike like you will, no one!

Hey if you have the money go for it, Support your Dealer, pay 19.00 for an oil filter that can be had for 6 from Rock Auto. Let them change your fluids for a couple hundred dollars, your money spend it how you see fit.

Me I will keep using the K&N Air filter, my Rock Auto oil filters, and good old fashion Castrol 20-50W. I will clean and oil the Air Filter at 24,000 increments, replace fuel filter at 24,000 from Beemer Bone Yard and call it a day.

I am not a sheep, nor will I graze on the Kool Aid.
 

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Go to Wally World, get a Super Tech ST3614 for two or three bucks and let me know next time you can document an oil or oil filter related failure of an LT engine.
 
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