I know this has been asked before and i have searched the forum without much luck to answer my question so here we go please be kind to me
Im new to the forum and new to the RT seen so im hoping its normal what im about to ask.
First a but of history on the bike.
R1200RT build 12/07 Silver 66000kms
I brought it from a motorcycle store about two weeks ago over the phone trusting the salesman, he told me the bike was serviced by them and was upto date with all services.
It was owned by a older guy and traded in with 66000kms on it for a new 800cc bmw as the bike was getting to large for him to handle.
its like new to look at and not one oil leak in site everything works great apart from the high beam switch as its a bit sticky.
But anyway i have this problem that i would like some help with please.
At 3000rpm i have a engine vibration i know its engine as i don't a number of tests.
Ive brought the bike up to 100kmh around 3000rpm pulled the clutch in and the bikes so smooth i had to check it was still going.
If it was a car i would say the flywheel was about to come loose but its not that.
I've also free reved the engine on the center stand and still has the same vibration.
I have checked coils they are in working order plugs are next on the test bench.
But im wondering if anyone else has had this same problem or if its just me as i understand the 1200rt's do have a bit of vibration but is this to much.
I know you said the vibration was coming from the engine but .....
Can you feel the vibration through the handlebars, footpegs and seat or just the handlebars. The reason I ask is that i had a vibration problem through the handlebars at 3000 rpm - so much so that my fingers went numb - and it turned out to be the front tyre. The tyre was in the last 20% of it's life but not close to the wear bars. Replaced the tyre, problem solved.
Just a thought.
I've had new tyres fitted as I didn't like the old ones and have only put about 300 kms on them.
It was also their before.
When the bikes rolling with the clutch pulled in so neutral its smooth as, that smooth that I have to look at the revs to see if it's till going
So not sure what it is
Welcome to the site Bushy and congrats on the new RT!
3K is a bit low in the RPM range for an RT, so that might be part of it. These bikes are happy at 3800-4800 while cruising.
That said I had a similar vibration at 4500-5000 and 85MPH for awhile and synching the throttle bodies smoothed that out completely. Now it is smooth through the whole RPM range and I was quite surprised to look down and find myself rolling at 110 yesterday smooth as silk!
Hi and thanks for the reply.
I was thinking about getting the valve clearence and plugs checked I wasn't aware the throttle bodies could be a problem. How often do they need to be done ?
I think that the TB could very well be part of the problems. Do the valve clearance first, and then the TB synch. The latter needs to be done at 12k miles interval, and the valve clearance at 6k miles interval. See if that doesn't fix your problem.
BTW, as mentioned in the other post, 3k is the low limit of the rpm range that the RT prefers. When riding my '07 RT, I tend to keep the rpm at 3k - 4k, while cruising gently on backroads, and if I feel a little frisky, then the rpm will be in the upper 3k and higher.
Good tune-up - TB syncs, valve adj., new plugs would probably help some but with that mileage on it, I'd look at replacing the Alt belt. Belt is about $20, easy to change yourself.
I tend to agree with the above, good tune up should make a difference. However, I would disagree with some saying that 3000 RPM is too low for the RT. It certainly is not an optimum performance range, but on a flat ground, I can go as low as 2800 RPM in 6th without lugging the engine and any vibrations. If the tune up and alt belt replacement doesn't help I'd go to BMW dealer for help.
Maybe I read your post wrong. You said when you run the rpm's up to 3k and pull the clutch in the motor is smooth as silk?
If I read that correctly it means the vibration is either coming from the gear box or clutch. So my next question would be is the vibration present with the bike in neutral and the clutch NOT pulled in? If the vibration is present than the vibration is from the clutch. If this is the case I'd say forget about it and go ride.
strange you talk about alternator belt i thought i herd the belt make a noise after i washed it yesterday, but couldn't work out how i would of gotten water on it maybe its time for a new one
For peace of mind it worth getting it all checked as how much do you trust a sales man.
I actually have a story about that too but that might be another post after i collect the parts they are replacing free of charge,they told me the bike was in 100% good mechanical condition and lets just say it wasn't.
Nothing bad mind you but after being told it was a good bike and having to replace parts soon as i received it didn't go down to well in my book
strange you talk about alternator belt i thought i herd the belt make a noise after i washed it yesterday, but couldn't work out how i would of gotten water on it maybe its time for a new one
Don't worry about that belt noise! Putting on a new belt won't get rid of it. It seem that all the '05 - '13 RT will have belt squeal after washing! The alternator cover do have vents, but I couldn't figure out how water gets inside either, but the belt will always squeal soon after washing the bike.
Unfortunately this seems to be the case too often. My 05 R1200RT was supposedly "perfect" when I went to look at it (6 hour drive). It was far from that. Dirty, no recent maintenance...but it only had 7800 miles so I bit the bullet and am glad I did. I replaced all the fluids, alternator belt, spark plugs, air filter, adjusted the valves, etc. Bike is like brand new and rinds perfect. Was worth the initial investment to make everything new and right as I now have a great running bike that I love to ride.
After reading your post i thought i would check to see if the bike had any sort of service date in the command screen guess what on start up its got a AUG 2013 service date im guessing its well over due.
im sure i asked this if the service was up todate hopefully the service book will turn up this week and if its not im going to talk to consumer affairs.
yes im still waiting on the paper work its been a month since i brought it :rotf:
I'd say that your TB's are out of sync, but as others have mentioned you probably need to do a complete service. FOR THE RECORD being up to date on all servicing, and having been service by the dealer are misleading. When were the services performed? That is the magic question.
Personally I'd do a complete service myself, but I also have to say the RT's buzz, depending upon what rpm, load and weather conditions. Mine runs smoothest in 50-70 degree temps, has some buzz at higher temps. It's a bike.
I asked all the correct questions i just don't think they were answered in the way i needed them to be as you have said.
I will wait for all the book work before giving a full and open account of all details to do with this purchase of this motorcycle.
I think a real possibility lies in the fact that in most gears above 2nd, 3000 rpm is lugging your motor. In higher gears I consider 4k rpm the minimum ... since it's my habit to always be ready to accelerate. These are not torque monster motors.
I agree with Luma. When just puttin around I keep the rpms in the 3k-3500 range. I've never noticed any vibration at any rpm other than idle, before or after replacing my worn out clutch.
Can you give any more details on the sort of vibration you feel?
I don't really know how to explain it but the vibration is in the engine from 3000rpm and above.
I've pulled the clutch in at 100kmh let the engine revs drop to idle and the bike is as smooth as not one vibration.
Then engage the clutch and back up in the revs and its vibrates again the only thing I can come close to is an out of balance fly wheel or clutch pack.
What ever it is its engine related not trans, wheels or anything behind the engine. I might take the go pro out today and video it on the stand and road.
Being very new to the RT boxer engine I also noticed some vibration starting around 4,000 RPM. With less than 300 miles ridden on boxers I wasn't sure if this was considered normal or not. Both my "K" bikes had a "buzz" zone so suspected similar with the boxer engine. It will be 5 months of PMS before I can check to see what the "buzz" zone is on my RT.
Hi all well I had a call today the tec informs he thinks it might have something to do with the balance shaft but will need it for a day or two to investigate. As many of you had said it could be as easy as a alternator belt.
Bushytas,
Ian here. I live on the north island as you Taswegians like to call it, but I do get down to Tasmania every now and then.
I would be interested to hear how good you find the BMW tech. I hope I would not need one when I was down there but shite does happen.
the RT's a twin so it will have some engine vibrations... but if its enough to make your hands feel numb at 3K, then i would really have to say its the THrottleBodies like other folks mentioned.
The service schedule indicates that u need to do a TB sync after every service (every 10K KM).
The TB sync is a easy DIY if u have the right tools like a TwinMax. If the TB's are slightly out of synch, you'll feel it in RPM's outside of idle. at idle its smooth.
Dealer costs made me do my own service - after doing it the first time, realized how easy it was. Doing valve checks and TB syncs on this bike is a synch and zero drama.
Yes I hear you on the cost side of things.
At this point I haven't had the bike long enough to start buying tool so this first check up will have to be done by a tec. But I will be buying tool over the next 6 months to do my own services, but I have another thing I would like him to check out at the same time.
The bike seems to have a small amount of drive line play and you can feel it when backing off and rolling on the throttle again plus the bikes an unknown to me and I'm not really sure where to start hopefully he will show me around the bike.
In the old days "ring finger" numbness was a common phenomena and I had it on my '04 so I'm not sure that you'll eliminate it completely. As others say, keep it in a happy zone: 3800+ RPMs, sit upright w/o leaning on the bars and never have a tight grip, just mho.
The RT does have driveline lash when you back off and on abruptly, so no problem there. Mine mostly does this at very slow speeds, or at least that's where I notice it most.
Again, if you're running 3000 rpm in any gear higher than 2nd, you're lugging the motor if you're attempting to accelerate or even maintain that speed.
Does it vibrate going through 3000 as rpms are dropping from higher?
I agree with Kent. 3K is the minimum I run with no load, anything below that I downshift. I try to keep it in the range of 3500-4500 to balance performance and mileage.
And I also agree with many of the above - a good TB sync will improve your day like nothing else (well, maybe a nice bottle of wine ...).
I just aquired a new 2018 R 1200 gs rallye. Its a great bike but has the above mentioned high frequency vibration in the handlebars when decelerating thru 3000 rpm. It varies a little but mostly 3000-2500. If I'm very careful with the throttle I can get it to vibrate like this on slow acceleration as well. It seems to be more prevalent in 3rd and 4th gear and disappears when I pull the clutch in. Once above 3200 there is very little vibration at all. I also have a LC RT and never felt a vibration like this and currently have 23,000 miles on it. I'm headed back to the dealer on Tues. but curious if anyone has suggestions.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
BMW Luxury Touring Community
894.3K posts
44.8K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to BMW Luxury Touring motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, reviews, and more!