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Is there a list of tools I need and some valve adjusment for dummies instructions listed somewhere. Any tips and suggestions for a successful adjustment would be helpful. I have a 2009 R1200RT
Thanks
Tom
Thanks
Tom
I bought the Jim Baden DVDs. Gave me all the info i needed for my 2004 R1150RT. Piece of cake, now. As is the throttle body sync.Plasterman said:Is there a list of tools I need and some valve adjusment for dummies instructions listed somewhere. Any tips and suggestions for a successful adjustment would be helpful. I have a 2009 R1200RT
Thanks
Tom
I have a set of the RT feeler gauges for your bike. You can have them if you want.Plasterman said:Is there a list of tools I need and some valve adjusment for dummies instructions listed somewhere. Any tips and suggestions for a successful adjustment would be helpful. I have a 2009 R1200RT
Thanks
Tom
Tom - the valve stems are a small hex wrench (somehow 3 mm sticks in my mind, but don't quote me - any decent assortment should have one) and the jam nuts are 10 mm hex. Feeler gauges are 0.15 mm (intake) and 0.30 mm (exhaust). And there is a Torx fitting for the cylinder cover bolts, T45 sounds about right, again a good assortment should have it (if you're doing valves you'll want Torx for other fittings, in particular T25 and T30 to remove the plastic). You'll also want a 16mm deep socket or plug wrench to remove the plug.GRB60 said:Aside from normal workbench stuff, Torx drivers (the 2010 and up need a T45 for the valve cover bolts) and feeler gauges. I'm not sure how the valves are adjusted, but would guess Torx, and maybe Hex drivers and the aforementioned normal workbench stuff should do it.
JayJay - what brand torque wrench do you use? I am shopping for a pair of reliable ones.JayJay said:And - consider investing in a torque wrench. It doesn't take much to overtighten things. I have a 1/4" for the smaller/low torque (<~10 Nm) and 3/8" for the larger/moderate torque (>~10 Nm).
JayJay
Thanks, I will give these some considerations. The prices are definitely a lot cheaper than Snap On prices!05Train said:http://www.protorquetools.com/cat-35-1-109/cdi_dual_scale_micro_adjustable_torque_wrenches.htm
Those are the folks that make Snap-On's wrenches. They're awesome, and at the sale prices, they're a steal.
Pad - sorry I didn't get back to you, had to do my Day Job today.PadG said:JayJay - what brand torque wrench do you use? I am shopping for a pair of reliable ones.
Thanks hopz. I have used torque wrench quite often in the past, but usually in my engineering labs. Never bought one for home before, since back then, when I need a torque wrench at home, I simply bring the one from work home for the weekend! I hadn't paid any attentions to what brands they were, because my lab manager take care of buying them, and keeping inventory. Now that I am retired..........I need to have the tools at home!!hopz said:Get both sizes. The 1/4 for the spark plugs etc, and the big one for the Rear wheel and such.
No matter which brand you get, read and follow the instructions.
If you go for the HF one, practice on something else- not your bike- maybe your lawn mower... get used to the very subtle "click" of the proper torque. It is less of an audible and more of a touch thing... practice and then have no fear.
I have a big ole torsion-bar Craftsman which I know to be accurate. The H-F and the Sears Torsion bar are right on.
YMMV....
Thanks JayJay. I use McMasters a lot also. I just don't know enough about their tools though.JayJay said:Pad - sorry I didn't get back to you, had to do my Day Job today.
I think I ordered mine from McMaster-Carr, which is where I go for a lot of stuff. But if I had it to do over again I'd probably go ProTorque like Beech and Train. I'm assuming that your comment about a coupon from Harbor Freight for a $10 wrench is a typo, I'm afraid I'd be really skeptical about the ability of a $10 torque wrench to maintain any semblance of calibration over time.
I have a Craftsman 1/2" drive torque wrench that must be 30 years old that I used to rebuild old cast iron American V-8's back in the day.. Way overkill for anything aluminum now, 1/4" and 3/8" should do you fine.
BTW, for anything that uses multiple fasterners, it's a good idea to sneak up on the final value. Say the five bolts that hold the rear wheel. Run them all in finger tight, then go around again with finger tight while simultaneously wiggling the wheel to be sure things are seated. Then do a round with the torque wrench set at maybe 50% of the final value, then go to full value with another round. And after you've gone that round, go round once again to confirm that nothing has shifted. I do the same thing with the four bolts that hold the cylinder cover to be sure I get even pressure on the gasket, I've never had a leak.
JayJay
Thanks again for the link! I had just placed an order for a 3/8" drive torque wrench.05Train said:http://www.protorquetools.com/cat-35-1-109/cdi_dual_scale_micro_adjustable_torque_wrenches.htm
Those are the folks that make Snap-On's wrenches. They're awesome, and at the sale prices, they're a steal.
Spark Plug Solution Hope this works.. for the spark plugs, a universal spark plug wrench from Lowes.. 5/8 on one end and I think 3/4 on the other.. problem was it was too short, the entire shaft was in the head even with the cover off. Solution? The front axle adaptor was a perfect fit and a 3 inch extension.. I had all the other tools already so total cost was $4.30.GRB60 said:Aside from normal workbench stuff, Torx drivers (the 2010 and up need a T45 for the valve cover bolts) and feeler gauges. I'm not sure how the valves are adjusted, but would guess Torx, and maybe Hex drivers and the aforementioned normal workbench stuff should do it.