BMW Luxury Touring Community banner
21 - 40 of 53 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
598 Posts
Hopefully this will help.
Yesterday a friend of mine backed his bike into mine and put a gouge into the painted piece next to the headlight (part 5 on in the pic) on the right side of the bike. I can either get it repaired, or replace it with a factory pre-painted part ($289.99). Either way, I'll have to remove it.

I don't see anything about that part in the R1200RTLC panels screw locations.pdf file that you had. Do you have a file that includes those panels as well??

I know I'm going to need to take up the speakers to get up in there, but I fear that I'll have to take out much more as well.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
598 Posts
Did you see the PDF I attached in an earlier post? That PDF explains the entire procedure.

How bad is the gouge? Could you fill it and paint it with some touch-up paint?
Ah, I see the other document now, thanks.

I ride my bike often (my default form of transport), but I also keep it clean and shiny. I want the scratch to be undetectable, so the only solutions are to have a professional paint it, or replace it with a new factory painted panel. I installed an 11 piece striping kit back in January and 2 of those stripes will have to be replaced as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
632 Posts
Ah, I see the other document now, thanks.

I ride my bike often (my default form of transport), but I also keep it clean and shiny. I want the scratch to be undetectable, so the only solutions are to have a professional paint it, or replace it with a new factory painted panel. I installed an 11 piece striping kit back in January and 2 of those stripes will have to be replaced as well.
I would suspect if the gouge is that deep, then the repair of the current part would probably match/exceed just buying a new part, unless you can do it yourself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Somewhere around here is a good picture of the back of the low beam headlight. Mine blew last weekend (3 low beams in 12k miles) and just by feel and looking at the picture; and a little Theater of the Mind" it only took me 40 minutes. The picutre really helped because i could see what I needed to do.
 

·
Registered
2014 R1200RT, 1984 R80RT
Joined
·
65 Posts
I am removing the headlight assembly from my 2014 R1200RT using the PDF instruction provided by bandytales (THANK YOU!!!). I got to the step where you disconnect the windscreen adjuster (page 18). I removed the lock washers but the bolts do not want to move. I am assuming that they are pins rather than bolts since the adjuster arms pivot on them. Are the springs putting some load on the bolts? Are there any tricks for getting the bolts out? I thought I would ask before I use more force on the bolts.
 

·
Registered
2014 R1200RT, 1984 R80RT
Joined
·
65 Posts
The pins still do not want to move but I found an alternate method of getting the headlight assembly out without pulling the pins. I removed the wiring connector from the headlight assembly and cut the cable tie. I turned the key on and raised the windshield arms all the way. I then removed the fasteners for the top center section of the fairing (page 19). I then removed the six clips and two screws for the headlight assembly (page 1-2). There was enough clearance to pull the headlight assembly out. I then turned the key off and the windshield arms lowered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
After researching various threads about installing LED lamps, I'm ready to take the plunge. I have an '18 RT LC. Having replaced more than my share of hexhead RT lamps on my and riding buddy's bikes, I'd like to remove the headlight assemble and preserve the skin on my fingertips and forearms. I can't seem to find any instructions in the various threads or on YouTube. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
I did it on mine this winter but only did the low beam bulb. I also managed to do it without taking the bike apart. However, it took me 3 attempts at about an hour each try, and when I did finally get it in there, I could no longer feel anything in the tips of my fingers. It took more than a week to get the feeling back.

The end result was good, and the light is fantastic, but I would not wish it on anyone. I realize it would have been easier to take the whole front end off, and the bulbs would go in easily. But then, taking the front off is no easy task either. This thing was just not designed to have the lights worked on. Like many german products, it was designed in a way to make it as difficult as possible, so you will just go to the dealership and sign over your current paycheck for them to change your bulb.

It's not just BMW, and it's not just bikes. I changed a headlight bulb in my Mercedes last year, and it was just as bad. I had to lift the front corner of the car, remove the wheel, remove the wheel liner, and go up from underneath, just to get at the cap on the back of the headlight housing. Even then, getting the old bulb out and putting in the new one was difficult.

Thankfully, most new cars have LED lights from the factory, and the days of pinching those metal spring steel clips in and unhooking them from those skin tearing claws are drawing to an end. Good riddance!!!

But for the RT... It's absolutely worth it to upgrade to LED bulbs. It was worth the money, it was worth the pain, it was worth the blood and bandaids, it was worth not feeling anything in my fingertips for a week. But if that bulb goes bad, I am going to take the easy way out and just sell the bike! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Thank you for posting this detailed information.

I tried to change the H7 bulb out without any of this, from the front of the bike, reaching in and under(a.k.a. the reverse/blind method) got the bulb out, then proceeded to drop the adapter ring into the headlight module.

I am not considering my options: 1) Cut a hole in the bottom of the headlight module and fish out the LED adapter ring (and try again). I can tap the bottom of the module and can hear it rattling around., or 2) Dismantle the front half of the bike to remove the headlight module, finishing the LED job with the module out. ... At least it's winter here and I have some time! ... Any other options?

Thanks for your help. This seems insanely hard, btw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
721 Posts
Thank you for posting this detailed information.

I tried to change the H7 bulb out without any of this, from the front of the bike, reaching in and under(a.k.a. the reverse/blind method) got the bulb out, then proceeded to drop the adapter ring into the headlight module.

I am not considering my options: 1) Cut a hole in the bottom of the headlight module and fish out the LED adapter ring (and try again). I can tap the bottom of the module and can hear it rattling around., or 2) Dismantle the front half of the bike to remove the headlight module, finishing the LED job with the module out. ... At least it's winter here and I have some time! ... Any other options?

Thanks for your help. This seems insanely hard, btw.
I did the same thing 2 times. But pulling the front plastic panels off isn't that hard. Just take note of what panel comes off in what order & replace in reverse.
It is a lote easier installing the LED with the Headlight module off. you can place it back in position & test the LED before reinstalling all the plastic panels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
I did the same thing 2 times. But pulling the front plastic panels off isn't that hard. Just take note of what panel comes off in what order & replace in reverse.
It is a lote easier installing the LED with the Headlight module off. you can place it back in position & test the LED before reinstalling all the plastic panels.
Thanks Bighopper. I'm just about to decide that it's better to do a lot of do-able steps, than just keep trying to do an impossible step!

One question I have in going this route: I'm looking at C-clip removal and possibly other things that are foreign. Anything that stands out particular about disassembly that I should either get special tools or bone-up on?

Your help is greatly appreciated!

Thank,
Scotty
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
721 Posts
Thanks Bighopper. I'm just about to decide that it's better to do a lot of do-able steps, than just keep trying to do an impossible step!

One question I have in going this route: I'm looking at C-clip removal and possibly other things that are foreign. Anything that stands out particular about disassembly that I should either get special tools or bone-up on?

Your help is greatly appreciated!

Thank,
Scotty
Scotty,

The 'C' clips are easy to get off, just use a small blade screw driver into the gap of the clip & turn the driver to move the clip back, BUT ensure you hold your finger over the clip so as not to loose it.
Once you install the LED, hook the light module back to power to ensure it is working & you don't have a CANBUS fault.
 
  • Like
Reactions: engr_scotty

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
Scotty,

The 'C' clips are easy to get off, just use a small blade screw driver into the gap of the clip & turn the driver to move the clip back, BUT ensure you hold your finger over the clip so as not to loose it.
Once you install the LED, hook the light module back to power to ensure it is working & you don't have a CANBUS fault.
One of the screws that needs to be removed on the nose of the fairing is up underneath the plastic part that needs removed and requires a long T25 to access it. Also if you have OEM auxiliary lights on your bike when you remove the headlight assembly it can unplug those lights. Make sure you reconnect them or it will give you a bulb out notification when you start up the bike. Don’t ask me how I know.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
One of the screws that needs to be removed on the nose of the fairing is up underneath the plastic part that needs removed and requires a long T25 to access it. Also if you have OEM auxiliary lights on your bike when you remove the headlight assembly it can unplug those lights. Make sure you reconnect them or it will give you a bulb out notification when you start up the bike. Don’t ask me how I know.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Scotty,

The 'C' clips are easy to get off, just use a small blade screw driver into the gap of the clip & turn the driver to move the clip back, BUT ensure you hold your finger over the clip so as not to loose it.
Once you install the LED, hook the light module back to power to ensure it is working & you don't have a CANBUS fault.
Hi Bighopper,

Things are going well, albeit a lot of steps. But all is going well.

There is a step "Remove body-bound rivet (2)." (see image) I see the rivet, but how do you suggest getting it out?

I could cut off the tabs that seem to hold the rivet in... But how to reassemble? ... What do you suggest?

Thanks again for your help! - Scotty
172270
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Nevermind...

I think I was looking at a metal clip for a screw. The Body-bound rivet is plastic and looks a little different than the instructions, but it came out fairly easily.
And so did the rest of the panel. Hopefully it'll go back together, ha!
Gesture Wood Tints and shades Art Font
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Scotty,

The 'C' clips are easy to get off, just use a small blade screw driver into the gap of the clip & turn the driver to move the clip back, BUT ensure you hold your finger over the clip so as not to loose it.
Once you install the LED, hook the light module back to power to ensure it is working & you don't have a CANBUS fault.
Bighopper,

You were right! the C-clips came right out. Problem I'm having now is getting the pins out (2...they call them "bolts") of the actuator arm. I tried a screwdriver and a hammer to tap them out. No dice. They seem pretty tight, like they're under tension ... Any ideas?

Thank you!
Scotty

172273
 

·
Registered
2014 R1200RT, 1984 R80RT
Joined
·
65 Posts
Bighopper,

You were right! the C-clips came right out. Problem I'm having now is getting the pins out (2...they call them "bolts") of the actuator arm. I tried a screwdriver and a hammer to tap them out. No dice. They seem pretty tight, like they're under tension ... Any ideas?

Thank you!
Scotty

View attachment 172273
I had the same problem with my 2014 R1200RT and I never was able to remove the pins. What I ended up doing was to turn power on and raise the windscreen arms. I had a helper hold the plastic under the arms out of the way while I removed the headlight assembly. I then turned power off and the arms lowered. To reassemble was the reverse, I raised the arms and has a helper hold things out of the way so I could install the headlight assembly.

It is on my to do list to ask at my dealers shop if they have ever had an RT where those pins refused to move.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Thanks MichiganR80RT,

I did something like that to finally get them out: I raised the arms to their highest and tapped the pin with a hammer till I was able to get a screwdriver on the other side, and eventually a plier on it to simultaneously jiggle the arms and work them with the pliers. They seemed very tight, but eventually came out with the gentle tapping/pulling motion. Like I said earlier: I hope they go back in!

All the steps (left and right side) took most of the day. Mine had an antenna on the right side, so I had to remove that as well. All I have remaining is the headlight module. I have been very careful to put each set of screws in their own baggie, and mark them as needed, taping the baggies to the respective panel. I'm not normally this "organized" but thought it couldn't hurt since for me anyway, this is a multi-day project.

Hopefully I can complete it before the really cold weather comes. and I can focus on installing the ADVmoster LED in the comfort of my house! I am even pondering whether it's worth changing high-beams to LEDs at this point... But so far just pondering...

Thanks for your help!
Scotty
 
21 - 40 of 53 Posts
Top