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I've changed headlight bulbs before on 1150RTs & 1200RT camheads so I know it helps if you have child-sized hands and can do it all by touch. I now have a 2015 1200 RT LC. The owner's manual says -

No mention of having to remove the horn. I've had a quick look and feel at the back of the headlight and the horn is in the way. My question is - Can you change the low bream bulb without taking off the horn?
I would rather learn this lesson from the comfort of my loungeroom than miles from nowhere.
Thanks in advance,
Ian
 

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Yes you can change it...PIA...the clips are the hard part.....I have large hands and have done it twice in my 2014 with 24 thousand miles.....I am today converting everything to HID....I am hoping for way longer bulb life and better night riding.....all afternoon getting the nose opened up enough to drop the headlight assembly....hopefully I have new lights installed and working today....
 

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This is how to latch the clips

From the back of the fairing you can see the headlight assembly and clips. I took a .22 caliber cleaning rod and screwed 2 of the rods together. I then took the end and pushed the clip onto the hook. Repeated for the other side. Hope this helps. I am at 2 headlights in 19,000 miles.
 

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Good idea with the cleaning rod. I've got several here and may have to "experiment" a bit and perhaps make a small cut in one to capture the spring in a secure enough manner to make these low beam "torture tests" a thing of the past!

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Sounds like a couple of feet of wood dowel in about 1/4" and notch the end.

How long are two, 22 cal rods sections screwed together?
 

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I'm at 23k miles and have had to change mine twice. The first time it took me about an hour trying to get the clip to attach correctly and I probably bent it up a little bit. The second time was on an extended trip and I was able to do it in about 15 minutes. A bright (and small) flashlight so that I had a good view of the clips really helped.
 

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Just did mine for the first time on 14 and took about 20 minutes. 6000 miles and not burnt out just replaced with the ostram 2100 lumens... Clutch side clip came right off no problem. Other side took a lot of force to get it off but went together really easy
 

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Here's what worked for me on my 14 RT LC. You shouldn't have to take off any body panels. If you have really big hands it may be tough. I wear size 9.5 gloves (Large) and I was able to do it fine.

1. Put bike on centerstand.
2. Remove access cover by reaching up from underneath (lefty loosey).
3. Look in from behind handlebars with a flashlight to see the connector.
4. Adjust handlebars and reach in past the fork tubes and pull connector straight off...it should come off easily.
5. Look again to see the orientation of the spring clips. To release the bulb, you have to push them forward then toward the outside. You can do it with your finger. I wore a nitrile glove which gave me some grip on the spring. I found it easier to remove the starboard side clip first, and the port side clip second. (For some reason it's much harder to get the starboard clip off if you take the port side off first.)
6. Pull bulb straight out. Note orientation of tang (pointing up).
7. Insert new bulb with tang pointing up. I had to feel my way around to do this part, but it only took a minute or so. Remember not to touch the glass part with your hands. Confirm that the bulb is properly seated by looking in from the front of the headlight.
8. Put the spring clips back on. I did the starboard side first, port side second.
9. Push the connector back on.
10. Replace the access cover.
11. Start 'er up and confirm the new bulb works.

It took me the better part of an hour to get the procedure down to these steps. Now that I've done it once I could probably do it in 10 minutes.
 

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Here's what worked for me on my 14 RT LC. You shouldn't have to take off any body panels. If you have really big hands it may be tough. I wear size 9.5 gloves (Large) and I was able to do it fine.

1. Put bike on centerstand.
2. Remove access cover by reaching up from underneath (lefty loosey).
3. Look in from behind handlebars with a flashlight to see the connector.
4. Adjust handlebars and reach in past the fork tubes and pull connector straight off...it should come off easily.
5. Look again to see the orientation of the spring clips. To release the bulb, you have to push them forward then toward the outside. You can do it with your finger. I wore a nitrile glove which gave me some grip on the spring. I found it easier to remove the starboard side clip first, and the port side clip second. (For some reason it's much harder to get the starboard clip off if you take the port side off first.)
6. Pull bulb straight out. Note orientation of tang (pointing up).
7. Insert new bulb with tang pointing up. I had to feel my way around to do this part, but it only took a minute or so. Remember not to touch the glass part with your hands. Confirm that the bulb is properly seated by looking in from the front of the headlight.
8. Put the spring clips back on. I did the starboard side first, port side second.
9. Push the connector back on.
10. Replace the access cover.
11. Start 'er up and confirm the new bulb works.

It took me the better part of an hour to get the procedure down to these steps. Now that I've done it once I could probably do it in 10 minutes.
I just replaced my first low beam bulb yesterday, it lasted for over 17k miles. This is pretty much the procedure I used except I sat on a small cooler in front of the bike looking at the headlight and did it all by feel but knew how the spring clips worked beforehand. Took me 15 minutes taking care not to damage spring clips.
 

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I got a warning light today , picture shows what displays on a 2016 RT dashboard.
RT viewed from front shows low beam out, but right side high beams has been lit.
USA version RT I am sure.

This must be a cripple mod for an 2016 RT on the road, automatic right side high beam illuminated temporary for burned out low beam.
Not sure I have read this feature anywhere in the manuals.
 

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This must be a cripple mod for an 2016 RT on the road, automatic right side high beam illuminated temporary for burned out low beam.
Not sure I have read this feature anywhere in the manuals.
Wonderful, thanks for that ;o)
 

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4. Adjust handlebars and reach in past the fork tubes and pull connector straight off...it should come off easily.
Same process here but the connector was a real bugger to get off. With some origami yoga I was able to free it w/ the left and right hands fiddling with it.

I think I will take a heavy duty yellow rubber glove and make a finger cot to give the tip of my finger some more heft to get the front brake side clip back in place--it was really hard w/ an uncovered finger.
 

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I sat on a small cooler in front of the bike looking at the headlight and did it all by feel but knew how the spring clips worked beforehand.
I thought that I was the only one sitting on the cooler, looking directly into the headlight....

like someone else said, the clutch side spring came off in one try, the rear brake side didn't so I thought I wasn't doing it right, but give it a firm "push, and slide" and it will come off.

FYI, I didn't want to drain too much juice by going with HID so I just went with ultra bright bulb, I think it was PIAA.... I'm happy with it, and the color matches up with the LED rings so I think its a winner.
 

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This must be a cripple mod for an 2016 RT on the road, automatic right side high beam illuminated temporary for burned out low beam.
Not sure I have read this feature anywhere in the manuals.
Pretty sure mine didn't do that, switch on your high beams to see if the left side might be burnt-out.
 

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I got a warning light today , picture shows what displays on a 2016 RT dashboard.
RT viewed from front shows low beam out, but right side high beams has been lit.
USA version RT I am sure.

This must be a cripple mod for an 2016 RT on the road, automatic right side high beam illuminated temporary for burned out low beam.
Not sure I have read this feature anywhere in the manuals.
This is exactly what my '16 did as well on my 15K trip this summer. I tried to change mine on the side of the road for about 30 minutes and then gave up and had a dealer replace it for $25 (with my spare Ostram) at my 10K service at Sandia BMW in Albuqueque, NM a week or so later.
@gerhard,
Yes, the lights on both the left and right are the high beams on the LC, and the center is the low beam. In my thinking, they chose the right side high beam as the backup because it doesn't blind other drivers on right-side roads in countries like North America. FYI, both left and right come on when you toggle the high beam switch. It would be interesting to know if the left side highbeam is programmed as the backup in left-side countries.
 

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That's pretty cool we effectively have 2 low beams since the bloody main low beam is such a bugger to swap out. If I had known that I probably would not have preempted a failure by replacing the original low beam at 14,5000 miles which I did just because I thought it best be initially done in my garage. I'm sure for the next major overhaul of RTW it will have LED headlights as you see now w/ 2016 FJR1300 and even the lil' '16 Honda CB500X my wife is about to buy.
 

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I replaced my low beam bulb yesterday in the driveway, as I had gotten the RT out and was ready for a ride, but the warning light reminded me ....bulb out!

My actions were-
Up on center stand, forks front, approached RT from front, reached in under headlight area, found the plastic finned cover, twist and remove.
I thought it would be important to lay this black plastic finned cover in a position on the ground that I could duplicate installing it.....but I found it was unimportant. To me, it seemed I needed to roll it around, on reinstall, until the appropriate ears engaged and it installed just fine.
So cover Off!

Felt the plug, with its two wires off to the handbrake side, grabbed it firmly pulled it off. The wires are stiff enough to allow the plug to hang around the area in the same position, ready for reinstall.
So plug off!

At this point it was clear that trying to view any of this service from above was a waste of time and pointless. even tho I tried several times.

The spring wires, I was aware, needed to be pushed forward and out to the outsides.....and this is the difficult task! This has got to be done one wire at a time, and I found for me, I had to press the wire just above the end loop, which is not the best leverage and becomes painful if you are a newbie at this job. This job is done, again, blind by feel from the front. Both wires unhooked and you need to swing the wire up. Not 180 but out of the way, this tangles with the plug, figure it out.
So wires off!

Old bulb did not release! It took some finger prying to break it loose. But it did finally. Again blind from the front, but since you are looking at the headlight during this process you will see it release as you pull it out.
So bulb out!

Install new bulb by holding the new bulb by the two rear tabs, no touchy glass.

Install is reverse, wires first, then plug , then black plastic cap. Again all done by feel. The wire clip pressings on this portion of the task was the most painful for me, but once done you get the drill it works.

Warning light is out, goofy forward light symbol is out, right side high beam is out.....all working fine......go ride.

I have got Clearwater Ericas, so up grading the low beam would be pointless for me. I now need to order another spare low beam bub.
 

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I have got Clearwater Ericas, so up grading the low beam would be pointless for me. I now need to order another spare low beam bub.
You might want to consider buying BMW's new long life H7 bulb which is around $28. I don't have the part number but it has an 'L' in it. The regular OEM H7 doesn't have the 'L' in the part number.
 
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