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I was quoted about $400 to replace the two heated rubber grips on my 2002LT ($200 for parts + $200) for labor. Is there a cheaper way to replace the cracked grips?

One former Harley owner (now a 1200LT owner) suggested the tape wrapping for tennis rackets. I'd prefer to change the grips but understand that it is a time-consuming task and probably beyond my technical skills--Help!
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Changing the heated grips involves removing almost as much body work as a 24K service just to get to the connectors. If they are still heating I would go for the wrap with the tennis racket tape. That only takes 15 minutes to do.
 

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There's a lot of very careful work (careful to not scratch or pinch wiring) to do this work.

If the heaters are working, wrapping with the tennis handle tape will work.. and will increase diameter of the grip as well... If you want things "stock" and If you can buy new grips only.... try to carefully cut old ones with a new sharp razor... not all the way through so you don't cut the "heater" part, and peel off the grip. Then replace with new grip.

I haven't had mine off yet, but that may just work.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Electric Grip Replacement-1200LT's

Thanks to all:

I'll use the wrap until the next major (48K) service. PS--I have a small relic of Padre Pio on my Rosary Beads (made by my son).
 

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CaptainTom said:
I was quoted about $400 to replace the two heated rubber grips on my 2002LT ($200 for parts + $200) for labor. Is there a cheaper way to replace the cracked grips?

One former Harley owner (now a 1200LT owner) suggested the tape wrapping for tennis rackets. I'd prefer to change the grips but understand that it is a time-consuming task and probably beyond my technical skills--Help!

I replaced mine years ago with an $8.00 set of gel grips (I don't remember the brand name). Simply carefully cut the stock grips off with a razor and slid the gel grips on. They are a little shorter than the stock grips, but work fine. Takes a little longer to heat up, but once warm, they work just as good as stock. The only problem I have with them is the one on the throttle has a tendency to gradually slip off. When it starts this, I simply work it all the way back in place. I sprayed hair spray inside before putting them on, and that works to keep them in place for quite a while.
 

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Replace just the Grips

I changed mine by just replacing the "grip" part . By using PN# 32722332619, remove them from the plastic handlebar insert by rolling backwards over the sleeve they come with and then they slid over the heater element PERFECTLY.

>>like

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3551&highlight=Grip+Replacement

these guys did . Hope this helps ...patric ...
 

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This method works great if you want OEM replacements. Get two left side non-heated grips (about $13 each a couple years ago).

Patric said:
I changed mine by just replacing the "grip" part . By using PN# 32722332619, remove them from the plastic handlebar insert by rolling backwards over the sleeve they come with and then they slid over the heater element PERFECTLY.

>>like

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3551&highlight=Grip+Replacement

these guys did . Hope this helps ...patric ...
 

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sorry for pulling up an old thread-
These will slide over the heated grip assy?
My left side grip is split so it's time to replace the grips.
Just trying to figure out the cheapest way, I'm fine with the stock type grips.

Thanks,
Bob


JGroves said:
This method works great if you want OEM replacements. Get two left side non-heated grips (about $13 each a couple years ago).
 

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Yep, the rubber grip is only glued to the heater around the inboard opening (where your thumb and index finger grip). Mine came off pretty easily after pulling this loose. Just shove the new grip right on in its place. Both sides are the same size. I didn't have to use any special method to get them off (WD-40, compressed air, etc.) or to get the new ones back on (no grip glue).

The only differences I noticed were that the new grips didn't have vent holes in the ends (so?) and they are a few mm shorter than the originals. I don't notice this at all when installed. I think I posted pics in my original thread (there's a link in the thread where you got the quote in the message I'm replying to).

edit: This should take you to the one picture I posted.

http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=K1200LT&Number=304813&page=&view=&sb=&o=

TBob said:
sorry for pulling up an old thread-
These will slide over the heated grip assy?
My left side grip is split so it's time to replace the grips.
Just trying to figure out the cheapest way, I'm fine with the stock type grips.

Thanks,
Bob
 

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I replaced my grips this weekend on an 06 LT with almost 40K on them. Unfortunately the grip heaters must have been used or they sat out in our nice TX Sun and baked onto the heating part. So they were really stuck on there the whole length of the grip.

I used a pair of pliers to pull back the lip from the inside lip of the grip and pulled outward away from the bike to break it free from the glue. This seemed to work ok, it took a little effort, but they came off.

Then I tried to roll them off the bar, but they were really melted on so it was a long and arduous effort. I found that using a pair of pliers perpendicular to the grips and grabbing decent sized portions I could break the grip free and by coming in at right angles to the grip, and using standard pliers, it wouldn’t mess up the thin wires of the heating element.

You’ve got to be real careful when trying to take them off if they are stuck on. The heating element is a thin bare wire that is wrapped around the grip starting from the outside and working towards the inside of the grip. Be very careful once you get to the end of the grip, the wire for the element comes out of the inside of the tube and wraps around the end of the tube/grip in a small channel and lines up into two channels that spiral up the plastic part of the grip. This helps to protect the elements and keeps them lined up nicely.

You should really stay away from the razor blade, as it makes it very easy to slice through one of the wires.

To put the grips back on, I used the hairspray trick, worked awesome. They slid right on with a little effort and after they dried, which in TX heat, it didn’t take very long,  I rolled the inside lip back a little and put the hand grip glue on the inside and rolled it back into place. Let them dry overnight and took the bike on a nice ride in the morning, and no problems. No slipping or anything.

The one issue I had was that the replacement grips don’t have end caps on them for some reason. I guess it’s because the real use for these are for the other bikes that have weighted ends to cover up the end. So I got creative. There are slotted plastic caps that are part of the hand grips at the end and these are perfect for adhering some BMW small stickers. I got some from my local dealer for free. They were just the right size to fit at the end of the bar. They stuck to the plastic and I rolled the end of the grip over them to provide added holding power. They looked ok, not the best solution, but worked pretty good. I tried to use a generic weighted end from Cyclegear, but since the wiring comes from the middle of the tube, it wouldn’t mount in there and I was afraid of damaging the wiring if I tried to force it.
 

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vytec said:
The one issue I had was that the replacement grips don’t have end caps on them for some reason. I guess it’s because the real use for these are for the other bikes that have weighted ends to cover up the end.
Which grips did you get? The ones I used were off the K1200LT microfiche, and had the opposite issue; there were no end holes or vents at all (the originals are vented).
 

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If you're brave enough to remove the tank section, the grip assemblies can be replaced with OEM grips for about $80 a piece. Not exactly cheap, but nothing is cheap on a Beemer. Once you get the tupperware, handlebar covers, tank, etc. off, the rest of the job isn't too bad. The harness for each grip assembly goes through the respective handlebar and attaches by a plug in the middle. The trick is to fashion a release tool to remove the pins from the connector and pull the harness back through the bar. I flattened the end of a piece of .022 safety wire with a hammer, used that to release the pins from each plug, then tied a piece of string around each harness before I slipped them through the bar. Tie the string around the harness on each new grip, and you can fish it back through the handlebar to mate the plugs. The installation is simple, so long as you make note of how to fasten a loop in each harness to allow complete travel of the handlebar from one stop to the other. Hint: take pictures of where everyting goes as you take it apart, and the reassembly is much easier.
 

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Guys the replacement BMW grips that I bought to cover my heated grips were part number 32 72 2 332 620. Someone in an earlier post quoted a part number that was one digit different. Not saying that one won't work but I know for sure that this one is the right size and I've double checked the number from the sales bill. These replacement grips look just like the originals except the end is closed where my originals had the three vent holes. I do not think the vent holes are an issue as there was no back pressure from the grip while sliding it on the heating element.

My install was to carefully cut off the old grip rubber with a razor then clean the heating element with simple green as it was a bit slippery from the original grip. Removed the new grip rubber from the plastic inserts. This was a bit tricky as the new grip rubber interlocked with little numbs on the plastic inserts. I used a bit of contact cement on the outside edge of the element to bond with the bottom inside of the grip and at the inside edge of the element to bond with the inside of the open end of the grips. Make sure that you clean both the element and the inside of the grip to get a good bond.

Steve
 
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