One of my handgrips is falling apart. I saw on line where Clark BMX Bike Grips fit perfectly but everything is overseas. Anyone know of a stateside distributor or another grip that will fit. I do not want to pay BMW to replace everything which seems to be there fix.
Replacement Handgrips
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1,410 Posts
If you want to stay with stock BMW grips and save a few $$$ read on . . .
Last time I needed to replace my grips that were worn out I bought two left hand non
heated grips from BMW they were $17 at the time - so that was a few years ago!
Part now is $24.25 and some dealers knock off 12% . . .
Once I received them I pulled the grips off the handles - carefully cut the grips off my
existing heated handles and then slipped the new grips back on the original handles.
The left one is a little shorter that the right one but if you tug and pull it is not noticable.
See pict below!!
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This idea came from a previous poster and I am passing it on . . .
Last time I needed to replace my grips that were worn out I bought two left hand non
heated grips from BMW they were $17 at the time - so that was a few years ago!
Part now is $24.25 and some dealers knock off 12% . . .
Once I received them I pulled the grips off the handles - carefully cut the grips off my
existing heated handles and then slipped the new grips back on the original handles.
The left one is a little shorter that the right one but if you tug and pull it is not noticable.
See pict below!!
This idea came from a previous poster and I am passing it on . . .
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1,137 Posts
I "third" the nomination of using the BMW not-heated replacements.
Easy fix.
Easy fix.
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1,428 Posts
Cut and paste from Here.... ....
Re: Installing the Kuryakyn ISO grips on the LT:
First, you have to special order a set of #6240 1" universal grips, BUT with 2 right hand grips! I ordered them straight from Kuryakyn, but first time they sent mt two LEFT hand grips instead. The left hand grips are 1" inside diameter, the right ones 1 1/8". You have to have two 1 1/8" grips.
Next, CAREFULLY cut off the stock rubber grips, being careful not to nick the heater wires. This can be done on the bike, you do not have to remove the grips.
Then, use 1 1/2" heat shrink tubing, and shrink it onto the heater sleeves starting at the inside and working out, being careful to heat it evenly around the bar to get a good even and tight shrink. I learned from my installation though, put a little smear of some type of adhesive down the length of the heater sleeve for the heat shrink to adhere to. I did not do this, and because my throttle was hard to turn, it would slip back and forth a few degrees after installation. I ended up drilling and pinning mine with a piece of 1/8" diameter stainless steel.
The left grip will need two half circles filed or "Dremeled" in the metal sleeve to clear the attachment screws that hold the assembly to the handlebar, or else they will be PERMANENT!
You will also have to Dremel away the "outside" portion of the plastic flanges on the inside ends of the heater sleeves. Let's try this again: The flanges are too thick, and will stop the grips from being pushed far enough to close the gap between the ends of the grips and the control housings. You will be removing the half of the flange toward the bar end. Leave about half the original flange thickness. On the left one, leave the squares around the mounting screws. This allows the rubber inserts of the grips to be pushed all the way up to near the switch housings on the bars.
On the left grip, remove the grip's rubber inserts and cut out small square sections to clear the square sections of the heater sleeves where the mounting screws are.
Check fits and be sure grips can be pushed up the way you want them.
Wrap one thickness of Scotch 33 electrical tape on top of the heat shrink tubing if needed to get a snug push fit of the grips over the sleeves.
Cover the bike with plastic in case any glue drips (it will).
Put a liberal amount of the supplied glue around the end of the handlebar sleeve, and on the inside of the grip. Be sure you have the grip positioned the way you want it, and push it on with a smooth motion, not stopping untill it is where you want it. Once the glue sets (it is like Krazy Glue, and sets pretty quickly), you will not be able to re-position it.
the grips come with pieces of "spacer" material which is used in most installations to stop the grip at the right position when pushing them on with the glue in place. I did not think it necessary, as the rubber inserts stop against the flanges on the heater sleeves. After I installed them, I was afraid that not using the spacer material would allow the rubber inserts to be pushed down at the ends of the bars, because the bars are shorter than the inside of the grips. Thankfully, this was not the case.
If I was to do this again, I would cut the spacers to size as the instructions say and use them.
Sounds a little troublesome, but if you take your time getting everything just the way you want it before the glueing process, all will be well. Once you start the glueing though, there is no going back!
After I installed them and rode with them for a couple of days, I thought that I would miss the throttle rocker that I use on long trips when the cruise control cannot be used. Kuryakyn makes a metal "throttle boss" that is clamped on the end under the end cap. I purchased this and installed it, seen in the pictures I posted earlier. works great.
A little trouble to go too, but I am glad I installed them. I have wanted larger diameter grips since I got the bike, and I like these even better than the "cruiser" grips on some LTs.
David Shealey
'01 black LTC "BAT BYKE"
San Diego
Re: Installing the Kuryakyn ISO grips on the LT:
First, you have to special order a set of #6240 1" universal grips, BUT with 2 right hand grips! I ordered them straight from Kuryakyn, but first time they sent mt two LEFT hand grips instead. The left hand grips are 1" inside diameter, the right ones 1 1/8". You have to have two 1 1/8" grips.
Next, CAREFULLY cut off the stock rubber grips, being careful not to nick the heater wires. This can be done on the bike, you do not have to remove the grips.
Then, use 1 1/2" heat shrink tubing, and shrink it onto the heater sleeves starting at the inside and working out, being careful to heat it evenly around the bar to get a good even and tight shrink. I learned from my installation though, put a little smear of some type of adhesive down the length of the heater sleeve for the heat shrink to adhere to. I did not do this, and because my throttle was hard to turn, it would slip back and forth a few degrees after installation. I ended up drilling and pinning mine with a piece of 1/8" diameter stainless steel.
The left grip will need two half circles filed or "Dremeled" in the metal sleeve to clear the attachment screws that hold the assembly to the handlebar, or else they will be PERMANENT!
You will also have to Dremel away the "outside" portion of the plastic flanges on the inside ends of the heater sleeves. Let's try this again: The flanges are too thick, and will stop the grips from being pushed far enough to close the gap between the ends of the grips and the control housings. You will be removing the half of the flange toward the bar end. Leave about half the original flange thickness. On the left one, leave the squares around the mounting screws. This allows the rubber inserts of the grips to be pushed all the way up to near the switch housings on the bars.
On the left grip, remove the grip's rubber inserts and cut out small square sections to clear the square sections of the heater sleeves where the mounting screws are.
Check fits and be sure grips can be pushed up the way you want them.
Wrap one thickness of Scotch 33 electrical tape on top of the heat shrink tubing if needed to get a snug push fit of the grips over the sleeves.
Cover the bike with plastic in case any glue drips (it will).
Put a liberal amount of the supplied glue around the end of the handlebar sleeve, and on the inside of the grip. Be sure you have the grip positioned the way you want it, and push it on with a smooth motion, not stopping untill it is where you want it. Once the glue sets (it is like Krazy Glue, and sets pretty quickly), you will not be able to re-position it.
the grips come with pieces of "spacer" material which is used in most installations to stop the grip at the right position when pushing them on with the glue in place. I did not think it necessary, as the rubber inserts stop against the flanges on the heater sleeves. After I installed them, I was afraid that not using the spacer material would allow the rubber inserts to be pushed down at the ends of the bars, because the bars are shorter than the inside of the grips. Thankfully, this was not the case.
If I was to do this again, I would cut the spacers to size as the instructions say and use them.
Sounds a little troublesome, but if you take your time getting everything just the way you want it before the glueing process, all will be well. Once you start the glueing though, there is no going back!
After I installed them and rode with them for a couple of days, I thought that I would miss the throttle rocker that I use on long trips when the cruise control cannot be used. Kuryakyn makes a metal "throttle boss" that is clamped on the end under the end cap. I purchased this and installed it, seen in the pictures I posted earlier. works great.
A little trouble to go too, but I am glad I installed them. I have wanted larger diameter grips since I got the bike, and I like these even better than the "cruiser" grips on some LTs.
David Shealey
'01 black LTC "BAT BYKE"
San Diego
I checked on the non-heated BMW grips but somehow they didn't excite me 50 bucks worth. Went to a local dealer and got some grey Renthal mx grips. The left was a tight fit but some soapy spray cleaner stuff helped them right on. Fairly nice as they are but grip puppies in the mail to go over them anyway. The only thing I have to live with is the gap between the grip and the Master Cylinder but I think I'll get over it.
Here is the site I found where a guy used BMX bicycle grips.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsiRex5gasQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsiRex5gasQ
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795 Posts
Silly question time, why 2 lefts instead of a left and right? I think I will try this before going with the big-bucks heated grip replacement. I just wish the diameter of the grips were larger like my R1200C.dfinazzo said:
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16,584 Posts
The "left" non-heated grip has the correct diameter to fit over the existing heater elements. The "right" non-heated grip also contains a plastic throttle tube, which makes it cost more. Since you don't need this throttle tube, you can get away with two plain "left" grips and save a few $$.
When it's hot do your Kuryakyn grips get any warmer than the stock bmw grips get. Whit all that metal it appears they would.shoswell said:search the archives. I replaced mine with Küryakyn grips. There are also "grip puppies" If you order the replacement (non heated) left grip its cheaper. Remove the plastic inner and use it however you wish..
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634 Posts
dfinazzo said:
Right on Dan :thumb:
I did this a few weeks ago, worked great.
The only thing different is in step 7, I used a Liberal amount of contact cement on them to avoid them moving when warm... instead of spit...
http://rhhall.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Low-Budget-Heated-Grip/2933492_zLJVps/1
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194 Posts
I just replaced mine with Progrip 719's. Worked fine on my '99, no damage to the heaters.
Note that the 719 grips are open end, not closed end. I installed bar-end fillers just for the look.
Note that the 719 grips are open end, not closed end. I installed bar-end fillers just for the look.
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