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2015 r1200 RT. Battery is taking longer to recharge overnight. Time to replace. Any recommendations on a brand. Along with standard equipment (heated seats and grips), added a Denali horn and connections for heated gear. No extra lights.

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For me I like to keep things simple and just got a BMW Battery. Mine died when I was on the road and had it replaced at Max BMW. The BMW batteries now have a 2 year full replacement warranty. It was easy and I've always had good luck with BMW batteries.
 
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The factory battery on my 16 will be 3 years old in Nov, with 12k+ current mileage. I keep it on a tender over winter months. Good to go so far !
 

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I replaced mine with a Yuasa GYZ16H, the original BMW expired after 3 years even though I keep it on a tender.
 

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I recently replaced my 2015 RT 4 y.o. OEM battery with another OEM battery.
I did some research hoping to find a better cheaper replacement but soon tired of looking at LxWxH measurements, AH rating, positioning of terminals etc.
Took the safe (& expensive) option - another OEM.

Ian
 

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Just replaced the one on my '15 RT a little more than a month ago. It was a preemptive replacement, since the original battery was still in excellent condition. I went with a Yuasa GYZ16H, and paid around $85: https://www.walmart.com/ip/YUASA-GYZ16H-FACTORY-ACTIVATED-MAINTENANCE-FREE/129243723


This battery will fit in the battery compartment perfectly, even if it is not as tall as the original battery by almost 1". It has a higher power rating than the stock Exide battery, at 240 CCA vs. 220 CCA for the Exide, but I am going on memory for the Exide number.


IF you (or anyone else) decide to go with this battery, I have a hint regarding installation, that will make life very easy for you! The hint has to do with the connections to the Yuasa battery terminals. On the stock Exide battery, you will find that the connections are bolted directly into a tap hole in each terminal. The Yuasa battery has a "hollow" terminal, and you are provided with a pair of nuts, bolts, and washers. The nut is supposed to go inside of the hollow terminal, and you have to hold it up against the top inside surface of the terminal while screwing the bolt into the nut through the clearance hole. Much easier said than done, with the extremely limited space and thick finger! Here is the hint. Take a strip of paper and fold it up to make a flexible spacer that you place under the nut, to hold it in place against the inside top surface of the terminal. Now, you will have both hands free to hold the short bolt and the power lead, while screwing the end of the bolt into the nut! Worked perfectly!

PS: if you go on Yuasa web site and do a search based on bike make/model/year, you will find that Yuasa will recommend 3 batteries option for our bike. The lowest rated option has the same electrical specification as our stock Exide battery, while the option that I went for has the higher CCA rating, and is delivered fully charged from the factory. The 3rd option is with a model that is physically and electrically the same as the one that I picked, but it comes with an acid pack that you need to put into the battery, and then charge the battery yourself. The last option will give you the "freshest" battery possible!
 
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Just replaced the one on my '15 RT a little more than a month ago. It was a preemptive replacement, since the original battery was still in excellent condition. I went with a Yuasa GYZ16H, and paid around $85: https://www.walmart.com/ip/YUASA-GYZ16H-FACTORY-ACTIVATED-MAINTENANCE-FREE/129243723


This battery will fit in the battery compartment perfectly, even if it is not as tall as the original battery by almost 1". It has a higher power rating than the stock Exide battery, at 240 CCA vs. 220 CCA for the Exide, but I am going on memory for the Exide number.


IF you (or anyone else) decide to go with this battery, I have a hint regarding installation, that will make life very easy for you! The hint has to do with the connections to the Yuasa battery terminals. On the stock Exide battery, you will find that the connections are bolted directly into a tap hole in each terminal. The Yuasa battery has a "hollow" terminal, and you are provided with a pair of nuts, bolts, and washers. The nut is supposed to go inside of the hollow terminal, and you have to hold it up against the top inside surface of the terminal while screwing the bolt into the nut through the clearance hole. Much easier said than done, with the extremely limited space and thick finger! Here is the hint. Take a strip of paper and fold it up to make a flexible spacer that you place under the nut, to hold it in place against the inside top surface of the terminal. Now, you will have both hands free to hold the short bolt and the power lead, while screwing the end of the bolt into the nut! Worked perfectly!

PS: if you go on Yuasa web site and do a search based on bike make/model/year, you will find that Yuasa will recommend 3 batteries option for our bike. The lowest rated option has the same electrical specification as our stock Exide battery, while the option that I went for has the higher CCA rating, and is delivered fully charged from the factory. The 3rd option is with a model that is physically and electrically the same as the one that I picked, but it comes with an acid pack that you need to put into the battery, and then charge the battery yourself. The last option will give you the "freshest" battery possible!
I had to chuckle as I do much the same on all of my Yuasa batteries and have done so since the 70s. I use a small roll of electrical tape instead of paper as it lasts longer when riding in the rain. I wrap it inside out around a large nail or pencil and usually 3-4 wraps will do. Then work it under the nut and the adhesive on the inside out tape will hold the roll in place and the nut in place also. A pencil makes a somewhat too large roll so sometimes you need to squish the roll into a U shape to get it stuck into the terminal under the nut. I am not sure why Yuasa persists in using this design as it is a PITA.
 

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Just replaced the one on my '15 RT a little more than a month ago. It was a preemptive replacement, since the original battery was still in excellent condition. I went with a Yuasa GYZ16H, and paid around $85: https://www.walmart.com/ip/YUASA-GYZ16H-FACTORY-ACTIVATED-MAINTENANCE-FREE/129243723


This battery will fit in the battery compartment perfectly, even if it is not as tall as the original battery by almost 1". It has a higher power rating than the stock Exide battery, at 240 CCA vs. 220 CCA for the Exide, but I am going on memory for the Exide number.


IF you (or anyone else) decide to go with this battery, I have a hint regarding installation, that will make life very easy for you! The hint has to do with the connections to the Yuasa battery terminals. On the stock Exide battery, you will find that the connections are bolted directly into a tap hole in each terminal. The Yuasa battery has a "hollow" terminal, and you are provided with a pair of nuts, bolts, and washers. The nut is supposed to go inside of the hollow terminal, and you have to hold it up against the top inside surface of the terminal while screwing the bolt into the nut through the clearance hole. Much easier said than done, with the extremely limited space and thick finger! Here is the hint. Take a strip of paper and fold it up to make a flexible spacer that you place under the nut, to hold it in place against the inside top surface of the terminal. Now, you will have both hands free to hold the short bolt and the power lead, while screwing the end of the bolt into the nut! Worked perfectly!

PS: if you go on Yuasa web site and do a search based on bike make/model/year, you will find that Yuasa will recommend 3 batteries option for our bike. The lowest rated option has the same electrical specification as our stock Exide battery, while the option that I went for has the higher CCA rating, and is delivered fully charged from the factory. The 3rd option is with a model that is physically and electrically the same as the one that I picked, but it comes with an acid pack that you need to put into the battery, and then charge the battery yourself. The last option will give you the "freshest" battery possible!
I find it curious that on the oem exide batteries in your bike was bolted directly into the bolt hole. Mine had the same nut and bolt as the Yuasa although the nut was thicker in the oem.
 

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I find it curious that on the oem exide batteries in your bike was bolted directly into the bolt hole. Mine had the same nut and bolt as the Yuasa although the nut was thicker in the oem.
I still have the battery, and I'll get a photo for you later!


Matt - the folded paper "shim" is just there to hold the nut in place while threading in the bolt. So, when that's done, I just fish out the paper and throw it away!
 

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I find it curious that on the oem exide batteries in your bike was bolted directly into the bolt hole. Mine had the same nut and bolt as the Yuasa although the nut was thicker in the oem.
Here is a picture of one of the terminal:





The threaded hole is actually in a block of steel insert that is inside of the terminal.


BTW, the CCA rating of the battery is only 200, based on the battery label.
 

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For me I like to keep things simple and just got a BMW Battery. Mine died when I was on the road and had it replaced at Max BMW. The BMW batteries now have a 2 year full replacement warranty. It was easy and I've always had good luck with BMW batteries.
Thank you for affirming why I chose to replace the battery at 3y regardless of its condition, which was still good when I installed a new BMW battery at the 3y/o mark. No battery tenders here as I am able to ride nearly daily half the year and the colder half I am riding at least once a week.
 

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I still have the battery, and I'll get a photo for you later!


Matt - the folded paper "shim" is just there to hold the nut in place while threading in the bolt. So, when that's done, I just fish out the paper and throw it away!
I leave my tape roll in place. That way I can remove and install the bolt many times in the future and the nut is held captive just as Yuasa should have designed it to be in the first place! I just installed the tape on my daughters Ninja 300 last year when we attached the battery maintainer pigtail. Only takes a few extra invites to roll and insert the tape and it will easily outlast the battery. I actually transferred the tape rolls from battery to battery on my 1987 Voyager and the same tape rolls lasted the 17 years I owned the bike. :grin:
 
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2015 r1200 RT. Battery is taking longer to recharge overnight. Time to replace. Any recommendations on a brand. Along with standard equipment (heated seats and grips), added a Denali horn and connections for heated gear. No extra lights.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Replace my Exide battery in my 16 RT 4 months ago, it was a 16 AH and 200 cranking amps.

The battery I bought was a YTX20CH-BS Yuasa MotoCross, it is a 18 AH 270 cranking amps. See first link

https://www.impactbattery.com/m6220c-ytx20ch-bs-motocross-battery-by-yuasa.html

Here is a 20AH that will work.

https://www.impactbattery.com/ytx20ch-battery-by-moto-classic.html?ccartCamp=53863317.0
 

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I replaced my OEM battery in 2013 with this one:


$75 CDN including shipping...


After 6 years, I was thinking of replacing it.


I did the following test on it:
* charge the battery
* remove the charger and let the battery sit over night
* bleed off surface charge by running the high beams for a few minutes
* turn off high beams and test the voltage with a good voltmeter.


It still tests over 13V. :smile:



It spent last winter in my non heated garage where the temp gets below freezing.



I always keep in on a tender.


It is not sold as a motorcycle battery, but it fits almost perfectly in the bike. I only had to put a 1/4 in. rubber pad underneath to raise it a little.


When the time comes for a replacement, I'll get the same one again.



YMMV
 

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Hi Daniel - the OP has a wethead RT, and I am assuming that you are talking about your '07 RT, so your battery wouldn't fit. BTW, with the wethead RTs, the battery compartment and the clamp system is such that one doesn't have to do any modification at all to fit a battery that is about 1" shorter than stock. Just need to make sure that the length and width is correct.
 

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Here is a picture of one of the terminal:





The threaded hole is actually in a block of steel insert that is inside of the terminal.


BTW, the CCA rating of the battery is only 200, based on the battery label.
On my 2015, I just replaced the battery with one I bought from Batteries+ for half the price of OEM. The trick I figured out was to take the steel inserts out of the OEM battery to use in the new battery. They are nice and thick, and slid right into the space on the new battery. No fumbling with a screwdriver or a tape shim. Now that I know this, I'll move them to the next battery as well!
 

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Replace my Exide battery in my 16 RT 4 months ago, it was a 16 AH and 200 cranking amps.

The battery I bought was a YTX20CH-BS Yuasa MotoCross, it is a 18 AH 270 cranking amps. See first link

https://www.impactbattery.com/m6220c-ytx20ch-bs-motocross-battery-by-yuasa.html

Here is a 20AH that will work.

https://www.impactbattery.com/ytx20ch-battery-by-moto-classic.html?ccartCamp=53863317.0
The 20AH is almost 5/8" higher than stock. Any problems with the added height?
 
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