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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I'v read the threads - one here for example

About replacing with a EBC disk, and saw reference in one of the other threads about the ABS ring being held on with 3 screws. Does anyone have any pictures of the process before I shell out either £310 BMW part - £177 for an EBC (MD 615) disk or rotor as you guys call it.

Would rather strip and replace on same day, as I use the bike quite a bit and don't like it being off the road.

Mike
 

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Go for it. Take the rear caliper and wheel off, take the TWO hex screws off to remove the rotor/ABS ring combo. There are three little pan head hex screws right in front of you.remove those. I sprayed penetrant on the seam to make it easy to separate the rear rotor and ABS ring. Pry slowly, all the way around, until the ring comes off. REMOVE all oils, put on the new rotor, LOCTITE three screws. LOCTITE two screws that hold rotor/ABS ring to final drive. Reinstall wheel and caliper. Use MFG torque on everything.
IT REALLY IS THAT EASY.
 

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I did it two days ago, it LITTERALLY took 15 minutes. I used EBC 615, AND new EBC HH pads...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok You sold it too me.

My only worry were the comments about the EBC rotor/disc not centering, I'm guessing you didn't have or have not seen an issue with it.

Mike
 

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Enjoy The Ride
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Several of us have had to add one more wheel spacer when replacing the rotor with the EBC rotor.
 

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saddleman said:
Several of us have had to add one more wheel spacer when replacing the rotor with the EBC rotor.
Interesting, I've replaced the rear rotor on all three of my LTs with the EBC rotor. I've never had a problem with the rotor not centering in the disk caliper after mounting it on the rear wheel. And 3 new mounting screws come with the rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Took the plunge today, have ordered an EBC disc and found a 2nd hand spacer for £2.00, so have one if needed. Just need to order pads and I'll be ready to go. Will try and remember to take some pictures of the ABS ring removal/replacement process. Figure I've saved myself a few quid.

About this spacer... next to the other one?

Mike
 

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Enjoy The Ride
K1300GT K1200LT
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Once you have the ABS ring on the new rotor place the assembly with one spacer on the rim and rotate it 360 degrees and make sure the ABS ring doesn't touch the wheel anywhere. If it does then add the second wheel spacer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Changed out the Rotor today for the EBC one. I didn't need the extra spacer, nothing fouling anywhere. Fitted new EBC pads too, and gave the whole thing a clean back there while it was apart.

I did find the other rattle I had too, one of the screws holding the protector over the exhaust had a screw missing, fitted a new one and that rattle has gone too.

No more cow bell on ride home, just need to bed the brakes in. I was shocked at how the ABS ring is held in place, just the very edges of those 3 screws stopping it from spining round!!:confused:

Job took 2 hours, but we didn't rush, and talked and drank coffee while doing the job. Next time around I think we could do the job in around 30 mins. Thanks for the wisdom on this great forum (note to self) make a contribution to running costs.

Thanks guys.
 

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myk_edwards said:
Changed out the Rotor today for the EBC one. I didn't need the extra spacer, nothing fouling anywhere. Fitted new EBC pads too, and gave the whole thing a clean back there while it was apart.

I did find the other rattle I had too, one of the screws holding the protector over the exhaust had a screw missing, fitted a new one and that rattle has gone too.

No more cow bell on ride home, just need to bed the brakes in. I was shocked at how the ABS ring is held in place, just the very edges of those 3 screws stopping it from spining round!!:confused:

Job took 2 hours, but we didn't rush, and talked and drank coffee while doing the job. Next time around I think we could do the job in around 30 mins. Thanks for the wisdom on this great forum (note to self) make a contribution to running costs.

Thanks guys.
Good thread Mike.
I received a new EBC rotor yesterday and the two screws [34 21 2 330 021 COUNTERSUNK HEAD SCREW - M8X20 TUFLOK0] from a local dealer who had them in stock and plan to replace mine this week end. Just brewed a pot of coffee as well! :)

When removed in a rotor application, these screws should ALWAYS be replaced. From the BMW microfiche
 

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myk_edwards said:
Changed out the Rotor today for the EBC one. I didn't need the extra spacer, nothing fouling anywhere. Fitted new EBC pads too, and gave the whole thing a clean back there while it was apart.

I did find the other rattle I had too, one of the screws holding the protector over the exhaust had a screw missing, fitted a new one and that rattle has gone too.

No more cow bell on ride home, just need to bed the brakes in. I was shocked at how the ABS ring is held in place, just the very edges of those 3 screws stopping it from spining round!!:confused:

Job took 2 hours, but we didn't rush, and talked and drank coffee while doing the job. Next time around I think we could do the job in around 30 mins. Thanks for the wisdom on this great forum (note to self) make a contribution to running costs.

Thanks guys.
Way to go!

Not to worry about the ABS ring, it has zero load on it, so slipping is not an issue.

Hopefully this is just a start in your confidence level on your maintenance. This site and the support here is fantastic! :D
 

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What does a EBC rotor get you..in other words what does it mean?

I did order and received EBC HH rear pads from Bike Bandit and they came like 4 days!
My stock rotor as some fine groves in it..should I have it machined or just replace ?
 

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Bones1955 said:
What does a EBC rotor get you..in other words what does it mean?

I did order and received EBC HH rear pads from Bike Bandit and they came like 4 days!
My stock rotor as some fine groves in it..should I have it machined or just replace ?
Very fine grooves should be ok.
From everything I have read, and experienced first hand on two of my three LTs, the stock rotor ended up "clanging" and/or squealing on me. The EBC resolves this issue, as it is designed differently. It was one of the first mods I did to my latest LT after I bought it. (2001)
Many of the guys have had great luck with the stock rotor, so use your judgement. It's great to have options....
 

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Other than what has already been said the biggest difference is $$$$. Stock is about $465 while the EBC is $157
 

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jzeiler said:
Other than what has already been said the biggest difference is $$$$. Stock is about $465 while the EBC is $157
+1
 

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jzeiler said:
Other than what has already been said the biggest difference is $$$$. Stock is about $465 while the EBC is $157
AND if you order from BeemerBoneyard (no personal $$ interest) and use the special; code of BMWMOA you get an additional 10% off!
 

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Replaced mine last week with ebc, the old was worn very thin. Way below spec and it had a high ridge on both sides on the outer edge where the pads weren't hitting. Definitely needed heat to remove the 3 holding screws, they weren't moving without it. New rotor came with new screws. Tried a little prying on the ring and just decided to use a gear puller. It was on there snug but backed off nicely with the puller.

Put the new rotor in the freezer for a while and put a little heat to the ring. They literally dropped on together with a little clearance and you could free spin the ring like a top. When the heat equalized there was a negative clearance, very tight. Put a little blue loctite on the new screws. Works better than the original had been.
 

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Great info from you guys!

Mine is worn some also..I can see where the pads don't ride that it is thicker.
I put the pads on today anyways. About a 15 min job since I read on here how to do it.
Works great..I don't and didn't have any noise back there.
To get the cap off the back reservoir I just took the two bolts that hold the back seat in place out..removed seat and was able to get the cap off.
I think over the off season I'll buy the EBC rotor...there is a off season to these bikes right..lol.
Just rode home in 40 degree f weather and it was fine..even without the heated grips working..but I would like to fix those.

So EBC is just the name of the company right?
 

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Re: Replace rear Rotor - Which Loctite Where?

Got the new EBC rotor yesterday...

Scary part is that neither the two bolts that went to the final drive nor the three for the ABS (or did I get it backwards?) needed much force or any heat to come off. The set of two actually came off quite readily... Yikes!

Ready to put new stuff back on and have my handy torque wrench out and ready. Also have my bottles of Loctite ready to go.

And thus my question... Red or Blue?
 
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