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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everybody

When making the oil change, I discovered that the underride protection has been bent and was blocking access to the oil filter.
When trying to remove the protection, I found that the two big M10 screws holding the rear of the protection were very hard to unscrew.
The are not blocked; I manage to undo 1 or 2 turns but they get harder to turn.:confused:
No, I am not turning the screw the wrong way. :wink:
I do not want to break anything so I prefer to ask.
Any idea why these big screws are so hard to undo.

Thanks in advance

Bruno
 

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Skid plate?

I remember those long screws and being kind of hard to get out but not bad. I hope you're not undoing the center stand.
 

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Something to consider.....I am currently working a center stand for a friend. When I started to remove the skid plate, I could see that some good penetrating oil would have helped a bit. Kroil works good for me. It looked like the system had been removed some time earlier and when re-installed, they put blue loctite on those bolts. May BMW has some of the thread locker that needs to be heated.
 

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all I can say is it must be pretty badly bent, and use heaps of what ever fluid you choose to saturate the bolts for a few days, the oil filter is no where near the skid plate, you do know it is up inside the motor under the round cover with the 3 bolts in it?
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Linton,

The 05 + have a bigger skid unit and the front cross bar can block the oil cover access if it has gotten a good hard smack.

Just keep going on the bolts as they should have had blue loctite on them so a little heat may loosen them.
 

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Ah, thanks John for the image, when I looked at mine I could believe it could move that far, cleared that one up fairly easy.
 

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ATF [Automatic Transmission Fluid] and Acetone in a 50/50 mix is a great penetrant...
Ditto.

Since I read about using AFT and Acetone I have kept an oil oil can with a 50% mix in my shop. I have a long history of wrenching on rusted old stuff and I have to say this mix really works. Better than Liquid Wrench and any other commercial penetrating oil I have tried. These products can take hours or days to penetrate into rusted threads. The acetone/ATF mix flows right in. No more waiting in many cases.

I keep a cap on the oil can so the acetone won't evaporate and it is always handy.

Bruno,
If you can back the bolts out to some degree, I'd back them out, apply ATF/acetone, thread the bolts back in and out, each time trying to back them out a little further.
A little heat is always a help. I apply heat with a heat gun but a gas torch will work; watch the paint. If I have applied penetrating fluid, I'll try to wipe off any excess before applying heat. Anticipate a little smoke or flame when heating where penetrating fluid has been applied. Patience rather than power prevents broken fasteners.
HTH

P.S. We are thinking of folks in Paris during these times.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you all for your suggestions.
I will try to use some penetrating oil and then I will heat the bolts.
I think there must be some amount of hard loctite on the tip of the bolts so they are hard to undo.

Thanks again:wave

Bruno
 

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I found my 2005 is a PITA compared to my 2002.
Leaning the bike over in turns has destroyed the screws holding on the skid plate.
 

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ATF [Automatic Transmission Fluid] and Acetone in a 50/50 mix is a great penetrant

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CESDxCloCoQ

and . . .

Penetrating Oil Showdown!!! | The H.A.M.B.

:)
Very informative! As an ideal follow up to the ATF-Acetone vs LW test, I would have liked to see you wet the LW screw with the ATF-Acetone, let it soak, then try again to break it free to see if that screw can actually be broken free or is it just plain frozen. For years I have used Kroil as my preferred penetrating oil, but it is very expensive whereas acetone and ATF are not. An added plus is they are available at almost any home improvement or hardware store. I have always had to order Kroil direct from the manufacturer.
 

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Very informative! As an ideal follow up to the ATF-Acetone vs LW test, I would have liked to see you wet the LW screw with the ATF-Acetone, let it soak, then try again to break it free to see if that screw can actually be broken free or is it just plain frozen. For years I have used Kroil as my preferred penetrating oil, but it is very expensive whereas acetone and ATF are not. An added plus is they are available at almost any home improvement or hardware store. I have always had to order Kroil direct from the manufacturer.
As an HVAC tech, I use Kroil all the time, it works well. There is a United Refrigeration (HVAC/R parts house) in Cleveland, they should have Kroil on the shelf, and as far as I know, they sell for cash. You'll pay more than the techs, but I'm pretty sure they'll sell it to you.

That said, I'm SO going to try the ATF/acetone mixture, if it's better, I want it.:grin:


Mark:bmw:
 
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