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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

Have got the brake system completely emptied (2001 with servo brakes)...waiting for my Spieglers to arrive.

After installing the new lines do I fill all reservoirs and start sucking it thru with my vac pump or is there a set routine to follow?

Appreciate your help
 

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Hi all

Have got the brake system completely emptied (2001 with servo brakes)...waiting for my Spieglers to arrive.

After installing the new lines do I fill all reservoirs and start sucking it thru with my vac pump or is there a set routine to follow?

Appreciate your help
John, I don't have a servo system but I don't believe your vac pump will work. The servo system actually has 4 separate circuits that need to be bled in a sequence. If you don't have a Clymer manual, you can look at this video that goes through the process. There are also threads on this site with the procedure. There is a funnel that really helps as you need to use the servos to move fluid through the system and the reservoirs are very small. The funnel allows you to greatly increase the fluid capacity for the bleed so you don't run the reservoir dry and pull air back into the system. the I-ABS is very sensitive to any air in the system. Have a look at this video keeping in mind that the I-ABS system has 2 locations for the reservoirs, under the seat as I believe yours will be and in later models, they were moved onto the ABS unit itself.

If you had really bad old fluid in your system, you should push a large amount through the system to hopefully clear any old goo out as you mentioned in a previous post. Hopefully the system wasn't damaged by lack of maintenance.

Good luck.

https://www.illinoisbmwriders.com/s...ideos/15-k-bikes/34-k1200lt-integrated-brakes
 

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2005 K1200LT
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While Beech's posted videos are great they are for a FLUSH and not for an empty system refill and bleed. The techniques are the same but often you have to fill some lines before you can get anything to work correctly.

I always drain before I do the brake lines. I usually leave the top of the front hose loose (where it meets the hard line at the frame) and push fluid up from the farthest front caliper (be sure and press your pistons in fully) until I see fluid it at the end of the hose. I did not do this on the last bike I did and it took a great deal of bleeding over three days to finally get the air out. I also push fluid up to the handle bar reservoir from the ABS bleed port. It is worth your while to push fluid again from the front caliper to the ABS reservoir since it is remoted by a hose from the ABS unit. I have never had any luck using a vacuum bleed device since it will suck air from around the bleed nipple threads and it is hard to determine when the air is out.

Like wise I push from the rear caliper up to the reservoir. I usually have to do a conventional bleed of the rear control circuit as that does not do well with a push from the ABS bleed port.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Gordon.....thanks for that.

Been thru the bleeding process when I got the bike home after purchase...got a huge amount of air and mustard coloured crap out of the servo. The bike ran fine after i was finished...no faults...braked fine....for 2 days and then it blew the front line at the typical spot. I wanted the know if there was a specific order to refill what and suck/pump from where really.

Was good to strip it down...found various bits of wiring that needed new tape and found the original air filter...yep '01 stamped on it...17yrs in the hole...the bike has got 135,000 kms...just a faint flutter on the throttle at about 1700rpm..other than that you wouldn't know the filter was as bad as I found it to be.

Also am in the process of mounting a new GPS on the stingray...just getting the bits and pieces together atm...interesting to see how it works out.






John, I don't have a servo system but I don't believe your vac pump will work. The servo system actually has 4 separate circuits that need to be bled in a sequence. If you don't have a Clymer manual, you can look at this video that goes through the process. There are also threads on this site with the procedure. There is a funnel that really helps as you need to use the servos to move fluid through the system and the reservoirs are very small. The funnel allows you to greatly increase the fluid capacity for the bleed so you don't run the reservoir dry and pull air back into the system. the I-ABS is very sensitive to any air in the system. Have a look at this video keeping in mind that the I-ABS system has 2 locations for the reservoirs, under the seat as I believe yours will be and in later models, they were moved onto the ABS unit itself.

If you had really bad old fluid in your system, you should push a large amount through the system to hopefully clear any old goo out as you mentioned in a previous post. Hopefully the system wasn't damaged by lack of maintenance.

Good luck.

https://www.illinoisbmwriders.com/s...ideos/15-k-bikes/34-k1200lt-integrated-brakes
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks John...sounds good...will go down this path....tell me....F1 ,2 or 3 for the ABS push back to the handlebar?




While Beech's posted videos are great they are for a FLUSH and not for an empty system refill and bleed. The techniques are the same but often you have to fill some lines before you can get anything to work correctly.

I always drain before I do the brake lines. I usually leave the top of the front hose loose (where it meets the hard line at the frame) and push fluid up from the farthest front caliper (be sure and press your pistons in fully) until I see fluid it at the end of the hose. I did not do this on the last bike I did and it took a great deal of bleeding over three days to finally get the air out. I also push fluid up to the handle bar reservoir from the ABS bleed port. It is worth your while to push fluid again from the front caliper to the ABS reservoir since it is remoted by a hose from the ABS unit. I have never had any luck using a vacuum bleed device since it will suck air from around the bleed nipple threads and it is hard to determine when the air is out.

Like wise I push from the rear caliper up to the reservoir. I usually have to do a conventional bleed of the rear control circuit as that does not do well with a push from the ABS bleed port.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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I always use the tall one F3 (control circuit) for the push to the reservoir. The other two are F2 (integral circuit - cross feed from front to rear) and F1 (metering circuit). Once you have filled the front reservoir now bleed (take fluid/air out) at each of the ports F1, then F2, then F3 and F1 again in that order until they are all bubble free. You should have little air if any at all following the push fill.
 

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I use one of these for reverse filling. (have two, one for clutch mineral oil and one for DOT4)
 

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I don't know what Beech uses but I use this.

They have a cheaper hobby level unit. The V5.
 

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