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Discussion Starter #1
I've read many posts on the final drive bearing issues the LT has had and what folks have sensed or heard just before the bearing did the final dump for them. What I can't find is adequate diagnostic info that could warn of an impending issue, be it the bearing or other malfunction in the rear wheel.
The reason I ask is that when I spin my rear wheel I hear a soft rubbing sound, almost like the brake pad is slightly contacting the rotor and I do not feel any lateral movement or see any leakage.
I've read that a predictor to a final drive failure was a sound more like gravel in the wheel. I don't hear that, but is it normal to hear some rubbing noise coming from the rear wheel? She's a 1999 K1200LT with ~46K on her.

Thanks for any feedback,
Jer
 

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jers99lt said:
I've read many posts on the final drive bearing issues the LT has had and what folks have sensed or heard just before the bearing did the final dump for them. What I can't find is adequate diagnostic info that could warn of an impending issue, be it the bearing or other malfunction in the rear wheel.
The reason I ask is that when I spin my rear wheel I hear a soft rubbing sound, almost like the brake pad is slightly contacting the rotor and I do not feel any lateral movement or see any leakage.
I've read that a predictor to a final drive failure was a sound more like gravel in the wheel. I don't hear that, but is it normal to hear some rubbing noise coming from the rear wheel? She's a 1999 K1200LT with ~46K on her.

Thanks for any feedback,
Jer
Jer,
To be sure of the noise you are hearing, just pull off the rear brake pad assembly, as if you were taking off the rear tire. Two allen head bolts I believe. Tie the assembly back out of the way and spin the rear wheel. It should be smooth and quiet. You can also drain your final drive oil and inspect very carefully. If you see anything shiny you might have a problem.

Good Luck,
DCH
 

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It's a lot easier to just drop the pads off than to remove the entire assembly. It should accomplish the same thing.

Anyway, that's what I do.
 

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c00k1e said:
I am on my 4th bearing. No warning at all.
I would put money on the brake theory.
FOURTH bearing? That makes you a "16 percenter" at least!
 

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Betting on Brake pads

lnowell said:
It's a lot easier to just drop the pads off than to remove the entire assembly. It should accomplish the same thing.

Anyway, that's what I do.
Yes, no need to remove the cailber. No need to remove the pads either really.
I just push the pads back with a screwdriver so they aren't rubbing on the rotor. This checks to insure the pistons are not binding or seized as well as creating clearance for the rotor to turn without rubbing the pads. Then you can really listen and free for abnormality in the final drive.

Just remember to pump the brake a couple of times to get the pads back up against the rotor before your next ride or your first application of the brake may surprise you.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pads don't move much.

CharlieVT said:
Yes, no need to remove the cailber. No need to remove the pads either really.
I just push the pads back with a screwdriver so they aren't rubbing on the rotor. This checks to insure the pistons are not binding or seized as well as creating clearance for the rotor to turn without rubbing the pads. Then you can really listen and free for abnormality in the final drive.

Just remember to pump the brake a couple of times to get the pads back up against the rotor before your next ride or your first application of the brake may surprise you.
The pads didn't move very easily, but I did notice a reduction in the rubbing sound being made for the little I was able to move them, so apparently that's the issue. The piston(s) may be binding a bit too much. I don't see much wear on the rotor, so maybe the pads and rotor are fairly new. I bought her 2000 miles ago, so I don't know the history. The dealer isn't real forthcoming with it either. Maybe I'll press the dealer harder for some maintenance records.
 
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