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Discussion Starter #1
I ask Myself "Is the glass half empty or half full"? I have a 2001 K1200LTC with 35k mi. I went for a quick ride to my favorite pizza joint last night. while coasting down the hill I heard this scraping sound coming from the rear brake. I had just put on the shorty helmet; normally I wear a full face type (It was a hot one that day). So I did a quick repeat of what had just happened. While coasting with the clutch disengaged and at about 25 mph. I then applied the rear brakes and the noise ceased. I know from my experience in the Used Car Business that you can get this noise from older cars brake rotors on slow speed turns the wheel torques just enough to allow the rotor to cock (because of worn or poorly adjusted wheel bearings) and rub the pads differently. I got her up on the center stand and grabbed the rear wheel at the 9:00 and 3:00 position from the right side to check for play in the hub. Now I did get some free-play but haven't done an exact measurement yet. I'm assuming since it's a single sided swing arm there should not be any play at all. Since I haven't read of this symptom in any of the rear drive threads, I need some advice on how to diagnose and repair.
Does anyone have a template of David Shealey's customized 30mm socket?
Hey Dave, you out there good buddy?
So, Is my glass half empty (need to do a rear drive bearing? or is it half full and only need a preload adjustment (I'm just guess'n here).
It's gonna be a really nice today, Sunday the 22nd and would like to go riding!
I Thank you in advance...always great advice.
 

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Just Ride It!

Hi,

I wouldn't worry about the scraping sound if you are sure it is coming from the brakes. The symptoms you describe lead me to believe that it is normal brake noise. Happens on these bikes a LOT. Just be sure to check your pads to mare certain they are not worn out.

As for the free play, there shouldn't be any freeplay. You really need to check this. I have experienced and repaired both a clutch failure and a final drive. For me, I found it much easier and even more cost effective to replace the entire final drive. Found a used one at a boneyard near me.

For the final drive, I would drain the oil and see if there is any metal in the oil or on the magnetic drain plug. If there is much at all, your rear drive is probably getting ready to go. If not, and the free play is not excessive...JUST RIDE IT and be on the lookout for a replacement drive.
 

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Also, if you'll do search of the K120LT forum on "30mm socket" and a diagrahm and photos will be found.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Jack! I forgot to mention that I had just completed changing the oil in the rear drive, transmission and engine. I use Castrol Syntec Synthetic 75/W-90 and change it every 2nd oil change as a precautionary measure. So far no large pieces on the drain plug magnet, only a small amount of very fine black sludge around the magnet post. The oil color was ever so slightly tinted gray; It almost looked new.
Also no roughness that I can feel or hear when rotating the rear wheel while on the center stand. BTW the pads are BMW replaced only 1k mi. ago.
Many thanks for the heads up on the 30mm socket info and how to find it!
Just a few more questions:
1)Jack could you (or anyone else with this knowledge) recommend some salvage sources for used rear drives?
2)How can I bench check the used diff. either on site or at home before I install it?
I'm thinking some sort of homemade tool to hold the hub and body and put some pressure on it (don't want to get one thats just like mine is now; It's kind of a sleeper).
3)On a fun note: How can I get the " I'm A 4 Percenter" Picture. My computer skills are basic and would need good instructions on the process.
It's great to be a member of this community!
 

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RickyK12 said:
Thanks Jack! I forgot to mention that I had just completed changing the oil in the rear drive, transmission and engine. I use Castrol Syntec Synthetic 75/W-90 and change it every 2nd oil change as a precautionary measure. So far no large pieces on the drain plug magnet, only a small amount of very fine black sludge around the magnet post. The oil color was ever so slightly tinted gray; It almost looked new.
Also no roughness that I can feel or hear when rotating the rear wheel while on the center stand. BTW the pads are BMW replaced only 1k mi. ago.
Many thanks for the heads up on the 30mm socket info and how to find it!
Just a few more questions:
1)Jack could you (or anyone else with this knowledge) recommend some salvage sources for used rear drives?

I got mine from a guy in Morgantan, NC. Cyclesrecycled
He ships all over the world. $375 for a good used one. Another member, DANBROWN (screename) can give you contact info if you PM him.



2)How can I bench check the used diff. either on site or at home before I install it?
I'm thinking some sort of homemade tool to hold the hub and body and put some pressure on it (don't want to get one thats just like mine is now; It's kind of a sleeper).


I don't know of a method, but I am sure there is a way to check it. Some of the "big-guns" on here may chime in and give you the procedure. It would probably have to be partially disassembled, I am sure.



3)On a fun note: How can I get the " I'm A 4 Percenter" Picture. My computer skills are basic and would need good instructions on the process.

You'll have to do like I did and PM one of the guys who have it. I can't remember how and had to have one of them PM me too!




It's great to be a member of this community!

Hope this helps!
 

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RickyK12 said:
[
3)On a fun note: How can I get the " I'm A 4 Percenter" Picture. My computer skills are basic and would need good instructions on the process.[/B]
If you're using a Win-doze computer . . .
Display a message that has the icon.
Put your mouse over it and right-click.
Select save image as from the menu that pops up.
Tell the computer where you want it saved.
Sha-Zam! You've saved a copy of the image on your own computer. Wowza!
Do the happy dance :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance:
 

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Huum.

I need Icons for the speedo, starter relay, Modi-ticked-off, and headlights.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Than-x Tony! Sheesh, I feel like an idiot sometimes, but gotta learn somehow! I appreciate the help! I've got thick skin and don't mind clever sarcasm so don't hold back cause I know you got it in ya! Dat goes for da rest of use guys too!
BTW did you sell off the rear drive from your LT yet?
Do you have a list posted of available parts?
Do you know what year or production dates are compatible to my 2001 LT built 06/00?
 

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RickyK12 said:
Than-x Tony! Sheesh, I feel like an idiot sometimes, but gotta learn somehow! I appreciate the help! I've got thick skin and don't mind clever sarcasm so don't hold back cause I know you got it in ya! Dat goes for da rest of use guys too!
BTW did you sell off the rear drive from your LT yet?
Do you have a list posted of available parts?
Do you know what year or production dates are compatible to my 2001 LT built 06/00?
An '01 or earlier is compatible. The guy I bought mine from had several. Notice that yours has a speedo sensor mounted on the top of it. The new ones do not.
 
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