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Discussion Starter #1
Saw a few years ago someone was manufacturing BUSHINGS to replace the tapered roller bearings on the diff to swing arm connection pivot.

Any thing to be had now days ... and from whom ?

Thanks,
Scott
 

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motorhead said:
Saw a few years ago someone was manufacturing BUSHINGS to replace the tapered roller bearings on the diff to swing arm connection pivot.

Any thing to be had now days ... and from whom ?

Thanks,
Scott
They are out there for the buyin'. I hear they work quite well. A simple Google produced quite a few hits. Here is a sample.
 

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Now this I find interesting.
Would this be to replace the dreaded bearing failure or is this for the driveshaft?
 

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Nope! These bushings replace the needle bearings at the pivot point for the swing arm. Too bad though..............

Loren

MountianMama said:
Now this I find interesting.
Would this be to replace the dreaded bearing failure or is this for the driveshaft?
 

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I've heard of these solid bushings disintegrating.... and leaving the rider stranded...

Grease your needle bearings and go on... Has anyone been stranded due to a failure of this bearing???

John
 

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Discussion Starter #8
JPSpen said:
I've heard of these solid bushings disintegrating.... and leaving the rider stranded...

Grease your needle bearings and go on... Has anyone been stranded due to a failure of this bearing???

John
I find that VERY VERY unlikely that a solid bronze bearing would Fracture.
Now as for the stock needles/cage that wear in race grooves hanging up like they do, having them catastrophically fail is ... VERY LIKELY !!
 

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motorhead said:
I find that VERY VERY unlikely that a solid bronze bearing would Fracture.
Now as for the stock needles/cage that wear in race grooves hanging up like they do, having them catastrophically fail is ... VERY LIKELY !!
To my knowledge, primarily based on reading posts on this site for 10+ years, there has never been a report of a "catastrophic failure" of BMW OEM pivot bearings. (I take "catastrophic failure" to mean the the bike is unrideable and the rider is stranded.) That said, an number of people have had play at the rear wheel that was a result of improperly torqued or damaged pivot bearings. Add to that information my observation of approximately 30 final drive rebuilds where I found a significant number of them to have "notching" of the pivot bearing races. In all of these reports and observations, to my knowledge in no case was someone stranded as a result of pivot bearing problems.

As to whether the bushings provided by Rubber Chicken Racing (RCR) are superior, I cannot say. But when rebuilding final drives if replacing pivot bearing is warranted I've used the BMW OEM bearings; I consider the statements that the RCR bushings are superior lack substantiating data. They may actually be better in terms of longevity and reliability, but until I see more evidence, unequivocal statements that they are better are nothing more that opinion unsubstantiated by fact or evidence.

There are no reports on this board of RCR's bushings failing that I know of. If someone knows of a report on another site, I'd like them to post a link to that report.
 

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There have been one or two reports on the advrider site (sorry, too lazy to look them up!) of the solid units failing on *hugely* beaten-upon GS's in Baja-type running -- but no reports of failures in street applications. Failure in this case was not fracture, it was developing slop from the *heavy* abuse. I don't believe this to be any reason to not use the solid bushing pivots.
 

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They are a rather tight fit on the pivot pins so it is real easy to install the Bronze units "loose" and then have them beat themselves to death. You can eliminate this by exceeding the 7Nm torque initially to fully seat them. Then back off and retorque to 7Nm.

I have had them in the LT for four years now and no issues. By the way EVERY rear drive I have ever removed had notchy needle pivot bearings. But they do not fail and leave you stuck just like Curtis said. The notchyness makes it hard to set the 7Nm torque when re-installing a drive.
 

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Has anyone else tried setting those bearings so that there is just barely a detectable clearance rather than a preload? I'm concerned that the 7 NM preload may well shift or be excessive, after the jam nut is tightened down. Instead, a tiny tiny amount of thrust click barely felt with a finger across the joint should be tolerable I'd think.

I still wish there was a way to lube these without dis assembly.

Opinions please...........!
 

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A buddy of mine got once stranded in Spain because of the needle bearings gave up. His rear weel was scraping the swingarm pretty badly. Local dealer changed new ones and the guy got some 2500 km North to Denmark and the bearings were loose again..
I have been using the bushings and i have noticed that these absolutely demand the checking and tightening after some 500 kms. Sometimes even two times.
I see the benefit of the bushings to be the possibility to tighten them. The needle bearings you cannot tighten as soon as they start wearing square or flat.

Ari
 

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pozo_izquierdo said:
A buddy of mine got once stranded in Spain because of the needle bearings gave up. His rear weel was scraping the swingarm pretty badly. Local dealer changed new ones and the guy got some 2500 km North to Denmark and the bearings were loose again..
I have been using the bushings and i have noticed that these absolutely demand the checking and tightening after some 500 kms. Sometimes even two times.
I see the benefit of the bushings to be the possibility to tighten them. The needle bearings you cannot tighten as soon as they start wearing square or flat.

Ari
First case I've heard of needle bearing causing a stranding; so it can happen!
That they were loose 2500km after being replaced makes me think they weren't properly installed.
Thanks for the report Ari.
 

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CharlieVT said:
First case I've heard of needle bearing causing a stranding; so it can happen!
That they were loose 2500km after being replaced makes me think they weren't properly installed.
Thanks for the report Ari.
As far as I understand these needle bearings would also need checking (and possible retightening) after the first installation. Perhaps this was not told to my buddy or perhaps there was a too steep language barrier between the mechanic and the customer. Improper installation is of course one possibility as well...

But with the Rubber Chicken bushings, retightening is a MUST. They take some time for "settling in" and nowadays I have developed a habit to check the play in my pivot bearing every time I wash the bike. The first time that I installed the bushings and kind of forgot the retightening and when I realized the play in my FD it scared the poop out me. Until I realized the whole FD was loose, and not the main bearing. After retightening it it has worked fine.
But...as someone mentioned, the original fitting of the bushings to the pivot studs is way too tight. You have to sand off a bit from the studs in order to to make the installation also reversible.

Regards
 
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