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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey LT Gurus! This may be a simple question to you. I have had my 2000 KLT with 41k miles for 2 weeks now. It seems like the rear brake is very poor. For me to lock the rear wheel (not that I want to but just a for instance) I almost have to stand on the brake. The previous owner had the yearly service at 35k and it showed the brake fluids was changed. Could a new set of pads be the answer? Is there a newer better type of pad? Could it possibly be glazzed over, or is there such a thing? the front brake works great with very lil effort. Thank you for your replies!
Hip
 

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My '99 seems to be the same. But I don't think that locking the brake up is a good test.
In the UK we have a yearly machanical check called the MOT. Part of that statistically records the brake efficiancy and I was worried about the rear.
It passed with flying colours and the machanic said the brakes on the LT are amazing.
 

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hip001 said:
For me to lock the rear wheel (not that I want to but just a for instance) I almost have to stand on the brake.
Doesn't the '99 have ABS - you shouldn't be able to lock any wheel.
 

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Yep - Early bikes really benefit from a switch from BMW pads to EBC - HH pads. Feels like you really do have rear brakes.

Steve
Olympia
99 K1200LT

hip001 said:
It seems like the rear brake is very poor. For me to lock the rear wheel (not that I want to but just a for instance) I almost have to stand on the brake. T
Hip
 

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Rear Brakes

Woolly said:
Doesn't the '99 have ABS - you shouldn't be able to lock any wheel.
exactly what i was thinking too. maybe something going on with the ABS System?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Woolly & Beemer,
Tha ABS kicks in after it initially locks up. But I did say that just as an extreem example showing what kind of force it takes. Might be a poor example, My thought is a luxury bike should not take this kind of force to do anything.
 

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hip001 said:
Tha ABS kicks in after it initially locks up.
On mine, the ABS kicks in before it locks up - the speed sensor is linked to the ABS control unit to ensure the brakes never allow the wheels to stop rotating. I nearly got squished in Spain once because of this - there was a diesel spill coming into a roundabout, and it was like riding on ice with no brakes - I wanted the back wheel, to lock, if for nothing else but to clean the tyres a bit, but I just sailed in front of a couple of cars as if I was a passenger - I was even picking a spot on the bonnet (hood) to jump on to, and was wondering if the windshield wipers would hold when I grabbed them :(:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Woolly,
that makes no sense to me but maybe the newer ABS work different. The ABS units I've owned only kick in if the wheel locks for an instant. Am I wrong here? Maybe they have all been defective? I wish that the ABS would work before the tire looses grip but honestly how could it sense this and all the driving / road conditions?

The Diesel spill sounds wild! Glad you're ok!
 

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Food for thought...

In my honest opinion, having a weak rear brake on a motorcycle is about one of the best 'features' one can ever dream of ... bar none. The ONLY time one needs to use the rear brake is during slow speed manuevers anyway. And Lord knows you don't need strong braking at that point. In fact, often less is more.

Personally, I'd count your blessings and leave 'well-enough' alone. ;) But that's just me. :)
 

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Brake Lines

The rubber brake lines will expand some and give the system a "softer" feel.

If you want better brakes on the rear. Replace the rubber hoses with Steel Braided Brakelines. You can usually get them custom made for about 25.00 each at the local hose place.

Just look up Hoses in the yellow pages. There will be a place that can make up any hose you can bring them.

At least in any big city. You may have to go to town if you're like me and out in the sticks.

I replaced mine after a failure. It made a major difference in the rear brakes.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oh Yea!

JPSpen,
I agree 100% with your quote! I may try the braided line thing after I bleed it if no improvement happens.
Thanks for the replies!
Hip
 

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messenger13 said:
In my honest opinion, having a weak rear brake on a motorcycle is about one of the best 'features' one can ever dream of ... bar none. The ONLY time one needs to use the rear brake is during slow speed manuevers anyway. And Lord knows you don't need strong braking at that point.
It was my understanding that it was designed that way. Split 75% and 25% comes to mind, but I may be having a senior moment.
 

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Ajlelectronics said:
It was my understanding that it was designed that way. Split 75% and 25% comes to mind, but I may be having a senior moment.
BMW's Integral brakes are not like "linked" braking systems. The ratio changes depending upon several conditions.

Personally, I wish my GT just had ABS brakes and kept the front and rear separated. BUT, ... BMW's braking systems work best for the general riding public, and I'm OK with that. Lord knows I've spent lots of money on previous bikes just trying to get them to stop the way a BMW does. :bmw:
 

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Funny you should bring up this post. Just last week I was wondering if my rear brake was working without providing extra force on the pedal. When I come to a stop I apply the front brake and then the rear brake, it seems that the rear brake is doing nothing, so while going slow, I just pressed the rear pedal and the bike does slow down, just not as much as with the front level pressed.

On the pre-electric brakes, I think that this is common. The pads will get some glazing on them. The only time that I notice a real solid rear brake pedal is when I change out the pads. While you bleed the brakes, you may want to rough up the pads some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
stevek1200lt said:
Yep - Early bikes really benefit from a switch from BMW pads to EBC - HH pads. Feels like you really do have rear brakes.

Steve
Olympia
99 K1200LT

Where do I find EBC-HH pads?
 
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