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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 03 LT with 51,xxx miles. My problem is the rear brake rotor. I was willing to put up with the cow bell noise until my return from FL this weekend. On the return trip to GA my friend noticed that the rotor appeared to be moving up and down on the hub and that the noise had increased to a level that he could hear it several bike lengths behind me. When we stopped for gas and inspected the rotor there is over 1/3 of inch movement in the rotor up and down on the brads holding it to the hub. I can lift the rotor and almost position it so it would come off the top brads, but the lower brads would still hold it to the hub.

Here is my dilemma and my questions. Has anyone been successful with BMW picking up any of the cost? OK before you say it, yes it could be consider a wear item, but this seems ridiculous to replace a rotor for this type of wear and this is a known problem. Second, if not successful with BMW what about a second party warranty? I have a Pinnacle second party warranty, but have a feeling they will call it a wear item. Third, if BMW or Pinnacle will not pick it up, I plan on going with the EBC rotor, since it is about ½ the cost of the BMW. It would be ridiculous to pay for a BMW replacement which would wear out in another 30 or 40,000 miles. Fourth, has anyone improvised an inexpensive fix?

Bottom line; what has been your experience with this issue and how have you approached it to gain a successful outcome?
 

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No experience in getting a fix from anyone other than me, Jim. Butt.... I'm fixing to replace ole Toad's OEM rotor (at 112,00 miles) with an EBC rotor. My OEM isn't doing the hub-dance yet, butt it is getting rather thin at the edge. I have to count on that as being a wear item. I'll be doing the swap at the same time I replace the pads with EBCs - using FA304HH (sintered).

Sure doesn't hurt to try for a leetle help from the principals, butt unless your dealer can make a determination that it is a defect, I wouldn't hold out much hope. Any principal is gonna look to your dealer for direction in handling a request. Good luck.
 

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Jim,

Your question really comes down to your relationship with your dealer. What mine might do for me, yours won't do for you. Know what I mean? It sucks and it's unfair...but such is life. Hey, it never hurts to ask though. And the squeaky wheel is still getting the grease...last I checked. ;)


Dick,

I recommend non-sintered pads. I could not tell a lick of braking difference when I switched to non-sintered pads on the rear. Non-sintered are obviously easier on a rotor. Then again, if you're only changing your rotors every 112K or so, you might not give a rip. I know I wouldn't. :D
 

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messenger13 said:
Jim,

Dick,

I recommend non-sintered pads. I could not tell a lick of braking difference when I switched to non-sintered pads on the rear. Non-sintered are obviously easier on a rotor. Then again, if you're only changing your rotors every 112K or so, you might not give a rip. I know I wouldn't. :D
I hear ya, Joe. I figgered it's time for another oil thread, and I'm just trying to ward it off, using brakes or vanity mirrors or sumpthin'! ;) :D

Grif laid down in the parking lot of *$$ in 2000 and slipped a pair of EBC sintered pads on ole Toad - did it gratis, as is his habit - and we haven't had a squeal since, and we've been usin' 'em in replacements all along. May have contributed to thinning down the rotor, dunno - butt I wanna try EBC's rotor anyway - Hank at Rhinewest sez they're good.

And you're right - either one of 'em is gonna do the job. Ole Toad's been dancing' with the sintered ones and likes to lead, so we'll stay with 'em. ;)
 

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Dick said:
No experience in getting a fix from anyone other than me, Jim. Butt.... I'm fixing to replace ole Toad's OEM rotor (at 112,00 miles) with an EBC rotor. My OEM isn't doing the hub-dance yet, butt it is getting rather thin at the edge. I have to count on that as being a wear item. I'll be doing the swap at the same time I replace the pads with EBCs - using FA304HH (sintered).

Sure doesn't hurt to try for a leetle help from the principals, butt unless your dealer can make a determination that it is a defect, I wouldn't hold out much hope. Any principal is gonna look to your dealer for direction in handling a request. Good luck.
Tried the HH pads on my newly installed EBC rotor and did not like the combo. Changed to the standard EBC pads and like them much better.

As to Jim's post, I have seen his rotor and frankly I don't know what is holding it on. I thought mine was bad with the 'cow bell', but his is a gong. It does not just rattle side to side like mine did - it is loose in every direction - including up and down - including rotating on the base like a very badly worn chain on a worn sprocket. It is scary.
 

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Jim

Keep the rotor you have now. It makes it easier to find you in traffic.....
I just turn down the tunes and listen.

Terry
 

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Rear Rotor

Hi Jim!

Good luck. I have an 02 w/just over 112K on her. I replaced the rear rotor about 10K ago & could not get any warranty to cover the replacement. The noise got so loud that anyone around me could hear it. I saved the bad rotor, just for grins, but I foot the bill for its replacement.

Maybe someone else on this forum had a better experience.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, no warranty from BMW and no help from the dealer. Did a search and read all the past input. If you want to change yours the EBC rotor plus pads will be around 150.00 depending on which pads you want to use. I located two suppliers Cyclebrakes.com and Bikebandit.com. Cyclebrakes had the best price, but the rotors are tied up in customs and may be 4 weeks before being released.

I will give everyone an update after I replace the old one. The procedure looks straight forward plus I am sure my mechanical friends will assist me. (Lou, Lee, and Larry) As for Terry you will just have to stay closer to me when I make those illegal turns.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rotor update.

Thanks to Lou, Larry and Lee the new rotor is replaced along with a new set of pads. The job was almost to easy and went by the book. The most difficult part is getting the ABS ring off the old hub. Not sure who e-mailed me, but they suggested I spray "blaster" on it then pry it off. Worked as advertised sprayed it, used a short lever and pried it off.

Over 1000 miles later and no cow bell, no squeal, and stops like it always did.

Paid 1/2 the BMW price and believe I have a good product.

Jim in GA
 

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Someone previously posted that this issue really boils down to the relationship you have at the dealer. I have an '02 K12LT. In 2006, my rotor was wearing out & getting really wobbly back there. It also make a lot of knocking noise. Now I am not a mecahnic in any sence of the word, but they (Victory BMW) repalced the rotor at no charge when I had a brake job done at about 110,000 miles. They must have used the BMW warranty (or simply ate the cost) because they did not go through my SuperSport Extended Warranty Company.

When my current rotor wears out, I will be switching to the EBC rotor & pads since my maintenance agreement w/Victory has since expired. I hope, even at this late date, this info helps some.
 

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I switched to the EBC rotor and pads ((HH). No issues so far. I also had the annoying cow bell. How I do not miss those days :)
 

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EBC rotor for half the price and I found only half the milage. Mine wore out at 21K. You get what ya pay for.....
 

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We have never heard of the rotor problem as posted here, but the rear rotor went on or 09 LT at only 13,000 miles, Bruce says he hardly ever uses the back brake and the dealer couldn't give any reason why it would go at such a low milage. Lost a month of riding from the middle of July to the middle of August because there isn't a back brake rotor for on 09 in the world. We finally ended up putting a EBC rotor on it, but put on BMW pads. Is this a bad thing?

Bruce and Sally
 

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Rotors and pads from different manufactures is acceptable. If it was a requirement pads and rotors would be in the same box. You can go into a lengthy discussion on cleaning the rotor surface every time the pads are exchanged. That is why you get service outlets requiring rotors to be turned on cars and trucks. Probably the result of litigation somewhere in the US of A...

I don't clean the rotor on pad replacement it but I'm sure there are people here that will tell you that the LT's rotors need to be cleaned or renewed.

There is probably sound engineering principals why this should be done. Probably this would result in initial higher efficiency in stopping distance (with all things being equal) but I don't personally think that I would see that at my level of riding.
 

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celtic2viking said:
We have never heard of the rotor problem as posted here, but the rear rotor went on or 09 LT at only 13,000 miles, Bruce says he hardly ever uses the back brake and the dealer couldn't give any reason why it would go at such a low milage. Lost a month of riding from the middle of July to the middle of August because there isn't a back brake rotor for on 09 in the world. We finally ended up putting a EBC rotor on it, but put on BMW pads. Is this a bad thing?

Bruce and Sally
Over two years ago my dealer upgraded rear rotor to the new style, because it was getting loose and started sounding like a cow bell.
After that my pads got worn down to 0 within 6k miles, damaging the rotor - the dealer replaced the rotor and pads again, on warranty. 6k miles down the road those pads were gone again - I rarely use rear brake pedal.
I noticed that the rear rotor gets hot even on a short trip. I took it to the dealer and they checked everything OK. They said that the rotor gets hot to the specs and these pads just wear out fast and need to be replaced frequently.
I did replace the pads again last year, this time I used EBC, It's been over 10k miles now, so I ordered a new set getting ready to replace it and a nice surprise...
After taking the wheel off I noticed the pads are still like new!!!
I'm not sure what made the difference and if the OEMs are a real piece if crap, but these EBC's hold great and the rotor looks good.
BJ
 

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bjedruszczak said:
Over two years ago my dealer upgraded rear rotor to the new style, because it was getting loose and started sounding like a cow bell.
After that my pads got worn down to 0 within 6k miles, damaging the rotor - the dealer replaced the rotor and pads again, on warranty. 6k miles down the road those pads were gone again - I rarely use rear brake pedal.
I noticed that the rear rotor gets hot even on a short trip. I took it to the dealer and they checked everything OK. They said that the rotor gets hot to the specs and these pads just wear out fast and need to be replaced frequently.
I did replace the pads again last year, this time I used EBC, It's been over 10k miles now, so I ordered a new set getting ready to replace it and a nice surprise...
After taking the wheel off I noticed the pads are still like new!!!
I'm not sure what made the difference and if the OEMs are a real piece if crap, but these EBC's hold great and the rotor looks good.
BJ
I think your dealer is full of it! If your rotor gets hot it is because at least one piston the caliper does not retract when you release the brake pedal/lever. It is usually due to excessive dirt buildup. For that reason the proper procedure when replacing pads includes thoroughly cleaning the moving parts.
 
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zippy_gg said:
I think your dealer is full of it! If your rotor gets hot it is because at least one piston the caliper does not retract when you release the brake pedal/lever. It is usually due to excessive dirt buildup. For that reason the proper procedure when replacing pads includes thoroughly cleaning the moving parts.
So, maybe that's what happened when I replaced pads myself. I cleaned the dust from pistons before installing the new pads. They don't wear as much as before, in fact they look like new after 10k miles.
I need to recheck if the rotor still gets hot - will update when done.
 

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Don't know how much effect the spring clip could have on heat and pad wear if it wasn't put back together correctly. It is possible to put the spring clip either on the inside of the pad plates applying a small amount of outward push pressure or clipped over the top of the plates in which case they will apply a small amount of pull pressure inward on the rotor. Or even on the inside of one pad and the outside of the other causing a push and pull unbalance between the pads.

 

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bjedruszczak said:
- I rarely use rear brake pedal.
You still use the rear brake every time you apply the front on LTs made after 1 Mar 01. The system does it for you.

I too had one pad that wore faster than the other (inside) since the bike was new. But this last one went a lot quicker and I noticed some discoloration on the back side of the rotor. Pulled the pads and caliper and really gave her a good cleaning and the rotor looks fine now. Pistons move freely.
 
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