[David_Nicholson]

I had a critical failure on two brake lines on my 1999 K1200LT, so I figured it was time to spend the cash and replace them with Speigler's. A little daunting, as this was my first time tearing the bike down that far (Just got it in October). So parked it on the back porch, stripped it down, swapped lines. No problem. Also flushed all the old brake fluid out of the system while I was at it. Bled the ABS unit first, then my front lines, then my rear (both bleeder screws). Got everything back together and it was time for a test drive. Drove around the block first (about 3/4 mile) and noticed that as soon as I hit my rear brake it was super stiff. it also felt like the bike was using more power than normal to stay at speed. when I got back to the house the rear break was really hot, and you could tell it was sticking. When I crack the bleeder screw on the rear caliper it frees up, but sticks compressed again when I push the rear break pedal. It was working great before I swapped the lines.

Hopefully someone has an idea to help.

Thanks,
David

 

[sheldan2]

Clean the area around the caliper pistons really well. Brake cleaner and compressed air. Might be a bit of dirt trapped.

 

[Scouter-50]

I had a critical failure on two brake lines on my 1999 K1200LT, so I figured it was time to spend the cash and replace them with Speigler's. A little daunting, as this was my first time tearing the bike down that far (Just got it in October). So parked it on the back porch, stripped it down, swapped lines. No problem. Also flushed all the old brake fluid out of the system while I was at it. Bled the ABS unit first, then my front lines, then my rear (both bleeder screws). Got everything back together and it was time for a test drive. Drove around the block first (about 3/4 mile) and noticed that as soon as I hit my rear brake it was super stiff. it also felt like the bike was using more power than normal to stay at speed. when I got back to the house the rear break was really hot, and you could tell it was sticking. When I crack the bleeder screw on the rear caliper it frees up, but sticks compressed again when I push the rear break pedal. It was working great before I swapped the lines.

Hopefully someone has an idea to help.

Thanks,
David

Sounds like the relief hole in the master cylinder is plugged. Had this happen once on my K1100LT.
Robert

 

[David_Nicholson]

Robert,
How did you fix that?

 

[jzeiler]

Exactly which lines did you change? The one for the rear MC has some critical routing and could be pinched. OK I looked at your post again and it looks like you did the whole set. The ABS should always be bled last on the 99 also. Also if the rod going into the rear MC and the pedal stop are not adjusted correctly (need some play there) it will trap the fluid as well.

 

[David_Nicholson]

John I did all six lines. I'll pull the cover and check the lines, play in the rod and rebleed the ABS when I get off shift in the morning and let you know. Thanks for the help.

 

[David_Nicholson]

John, Your a friggin genius! Or I'm a moron, either way I"m happy. Checked the lines, rebled the rear caliper, THEN the ABS, and adusted the pedal play. Works perfectly. I think it was the pedal adjustment, which seems odd, since I didn't adjust it. But it works, so I'm happy. Thanks again for the help!! :dance:

David :bmw:

 

[deputy5211]

John, Your a friggin genius!

Indeed he is.

Or I'm a moron, either way I"m happy.

Cannot be too bad, you got the task done...

Welcome to the world of LT wrenching... No that your cherry is popped, you will no doubt find all kinds of cool things you can do on your own.

 

[jzeiler]

Hey, I just get lucky a lot and I have been around the block with the LT for quite a while.

Glad you got her fixed up no go enjoy a ride - on me.

 

[Razmataz]

Indeed he is.

C

See John, I believe the consensus is that even down the road if you switch brands, you are NOT allowed to leave this board! And thank you for your service...before & after.

 

[David_Nicholson]

Cannot be too bad, you got the task done...

Welcome to the world of LT wrenching... No that your cherry is popped, you will no doubt find all kinds of cool things you can do on your own.[/QUOTE]

Been wrenching most of my life on one thing or another. This bike is a whole new ball game I'm finding.

 

[David_Nicholson]

Hey, I just get lucky a lot and I have been around the block with the LT for quite a while.

Glad you got her fixed up no go enjoy a ride - on me.

I've been enjoying it all week. On you of course. By the way, that's going to be 42.63 for gas. Need my paypal? :rotf:

You did say on you..........I believe there are witnesses.......

 

[Borko]

Hi everyone.
Before few days, after find oil spot under rear tyre I changed rotten small metal pipe on rear caliper, there I loose oil (conection of both sides of caliper pistons). Deinstal rear caliper and made new metall pipe. During repair and check all parts of caliper, I was forced to block one, inner bleeding ventile, near to ABS sensor, when I broke him (lot of rust, unable to unscrue him, and pull him out and try replace with another, and this one not holding presure and leaking, that is reason to block him. Now have only one (know is faster to remove air if bleeding both, but I bleed only one of them, outside one). Try to remove air from sistem, first on ABS, bleeder for rear brakes, then rear caliper, but my brake lever is still soft. After few pumping, brake work, but few second latter, soft again.. How to remove all air from system ?

 

[jzeiler]

We need to know if you have a 99-2001 or later as it will change our recommendation. But YES you can do most of the bleeding from the far bleed port IF you compress all the pistons first and hold them compressed with wood blocks.

If you have a 99-2001 (Brembo on front calipers) then just bleed at the caliper. Then do a final bleed at the nipple on the ABS unit on the "HR" nipple. If you have 2001 or later (BMW on front calipers) then you need only bleed from the rear reservoir to the caliper with the key on.

 

[bruincounselor]

Mega Snip ... How to remove all air from system ?

I've found it helpful on most bikes to leave the lever or pedal compressed overnight to help bleed the circuit. With the servo ABS there are lots of opportunity for air to enter the system when changing hoses.

My issue is that the rear rotor is so damn loose it rattles over any little bump. Is there a magic fix that doesn't involve the cost of a new rotor?

 

[jzeiler]

I've found it helpful on most bikes to leave the lever or pedal compressed overnight to help bleed the circuit. With the servo ABS there are lots of opportunity for air to enter the system when changing hoses.

My issue is that the rear rotor is so damn loose it rattles over any little bump. Is there a magic fix that doesn't involve the cost of a new rotor?

Most replace it with the EBC rotor (MD 615, $150 or so) but you can apply a small amount of silicon seal to the spools to stop the rattle and still allow the rotor to float.