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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This week after years (?) of cowbells all over Europe I finally bit the bullet and got an EBC disc from Motorworks UK; after taking off the wheel, brake caliper and disc I checked the new one against the wheel and the bevel box, and also against the old one and no problems found. I had to move the ABS rotor over so first get the three small screws out. They take a 1.5mm Allen key which is pretty small and can't take too much pressure without rounding off the hex hole in the screws, so gave it a good lot of direct heat from a small propane torch, then quite hard hammeing on the Allen key to free them alal the while trying to get them loose, finally using a glove to save my fingers from heat and pressure they all came loose one by one. I gave the rotor a good lot of heat and then it levered up ok using a big screwdriver eventually coming off easily. After a clean up the ABS disc including filing off burrs from the levering off, it went on the new disc using a hammer on a solid piece of 2x3 timber, new screws that EBC enclose with the disc went in with thread fixer and then put the disc back on the bevel box. I used the same brake pads which were had plenty of life left, over 4mm, after smoothing their brake surface on an emery cloth on the bench.
I looked for all ways to use the "old" disc by fitting some sort of spring to stop it rattling, but not enough meat in the disc to drill and tap for bolt fixings; the disc was down to near the minimum wear in the Clymer manual, 6.5mm, and flats on the pins. So paid up the £180+ and did the full job. Just need a better than average UK day in November (ie a dry sunny one) to try it out but don't see any problems arising. Best to keep this class of bike in cOrrect condition; when you're 1000,miles from home you need the confidence it's as good as it should be.
Just for info for anyone thinking about this job,
Tony.
 

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Drilling off the original allen heads is much easier than fighting with it. Then you simply grab the shafts with a pair of locking pliers to remove the studs from the hub. Anyway that worked well for me. Putting the hub in the freezer and the rotor in the oven at about 300 degrees for 20 minutes will allow them to be dropped in place with zero effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tks for comments; as the disc retaining Allen screws only screw into the hub (not thro something you later remove) and hold the ABS with one side of the head i would be cautious about drilling the head as then there wouldn't be much/anything!! to get hold of with grips. But pleased it worked for you so it's an option; but not too difficult to heat and loosen . The ABS rotor came off easily hot and went on easily cold with light tapping using timber to protect it.
Tho the brake disc is not loose it is not bolted on; It has semi circle holes which bear on large bobbins and the bobbins are rivetted over a thin washer on the left side of the brake disc so tho not bolted i can't see the how there could be the sort of movement possible with the odd BMW set up.
Take care and enjoy
Tony.`
 

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With the LT sitting on the center stand and the wheel slowly turning in first gear, I sanded both sides of the rear rotor with 200 grit GARNET paper stapled onto a small wooden block. A quick wipe of both sides with an acetone soaked rag finished the job to remove any residue.

Clean metal = no more cowbell. :abduct:

I've never heard of anyone wearing out a rear rotor - my first LT went 144K on the original brake pads, (and rotor) and there was plenty left. I never worry about minimum thickness on a rear rotor - it is so insignificant in the scope of things since it's just about impossible to get it hot enough where hear dissipation is an issue.

I get 30K on OEM front pads, still my favorite despite the insane $$.
 

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RonKMiller said:
I've never heard of anyone wearing out a rear rotor .
I have worn out two rear rotors & one pair of front rotors in under 80,000 miles on my 2004 LT. When I ride in the mountains I'm on the brakes hard enough to make the cd skip in the glove box corner after corner. My rear pads last about 15,000 miles and the fronts about 30,000 miles.
 

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I noticed a pretty significant lip on my rear rotor when I put pads on. I measured it with a digital mic and it was 5.959mm, way under servicable limits. I'll have to replace it this winter. Bike has almost 45k.
 
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