[Frenchy]

Well, my first LT was a keeper. I sold it. Dumb me. This LT I have now seems not so cool.

I'm having Öhlins issues and now this. I was coming back from work today as I noticed a strange feeling of the bike. It appears the rear brake is blocked . Fortunate me it happens just in front of the garage.

The disc and the caliper were really hot, not red. I feel the screws of the caliper are kinda blocked too. I was not successfull in loosing those. I need to buy an allen bit to loosen it.

Can anyone tell me what's happening ?

 

[Caveno]

It's a 99LT? I don't think that's servo-assisted, could your brake lever be stuck? Can u spin the back tire when it's on the center stand?

Hmm...maybe a build up of pressure in the brake-fluid reservoir?

 

[Frenchy]

99' it is. Lever does not seems blocked. Tire can hardly move on center stand.
I'll dismount the caliper tomorrow to see if I can push back the pads and see what happens...

 

[zippy_gg]

99' it is. Lever does not seems blocked. Tire can hardly move on center stand.
I'll dismount the caliper tomorrow to see if I can push back the pads and see what happens...

Is the tire rubbing on the swing arm by any chance?

 

[myk_edwards]

Bonjour Frenchy,


I've just had to do a similar job on my late 2000 LT. Rear wheel would not turn very easy.

Put lots of WD40 on the two Hex bolts and into the caliper, and then removed it.

Pulled the pads, and cleaned the exposed pistons and kept spraying with WD40. after some time I was able to push the pistons back in, and once I had all 4 back, I put a block of wood into the caliper so i could operate the brake without the pistons coming out to far. kept working very slow and it is now running free.

I'm going to get the fluids replaced very soon, and will keep a close eye on the rear brake. It has been suggested here that it may lock up again, so I'll be checking the brake for high temps and making sure the wheel spins easy.

 

[Frenchy]

Well, I had all the caliper and pads out tonight. The pistons are fine and they are free to move. I was able to push all the four with hands only.
I bleed the whole thing with my Mytivac. Put the whole thing back together and... still blocked.

The pedal placed the pads in contact. they push, they push but they don't retract at all when pedal is released.

Is it master cylinder related now ???

 

[motorhead]

Had a similar issue myself after installing a peg lowering kit and had fooled with the MASTER CYLINDER input shaft adjustment and foot lever height.
If you look under the bikes RIGHT SIDE peg mount you will see the adjustable vertical link attaching the foot lever to the master cylinder. There should be a small amount of free travel foot lever moves before compression on the master cylinder shaft happens.
( If you adjust the foot pedal height with stop screw ? ... you need to readjust the input shaft of Master cylinder so it has some free play in it. )
Unless the master cylinders input shaft is fully retracted with brake petal against the stop you will have pressure within the rear brake circuit.

Well, I had all the caliper and pads out tonight. The pistons are fine and they are free to move. I was able to push all the four with hands only.
I bleed the whole thing with my Mytivac. Put the whole thing back together and... still blocked.

The pedal placed the pads in contact. they push, they push but they don't retract at all when pedal is released.

Is it master cylinder related now ???

 

[Frenchy]

I checked for several days now. Each time after some hours, the wheel is free to move. When I push on the pedal, it blocks again.
I tried to open a bleeding screw a little, it frees immediately.

Definitely a pressure problem. I guess I'm in for a master cylinder...

Anyone seen it ? Pressure applying but not retracting ?

 

[motorhead]

I checked for several days now. Each time after some hours, the wheel is free to move. When I push on the pedal, it blocks again.
I tried to open a bleeding screw a little, it frees immediately.

Definitely a pressure problem. I guess I'm in for a master cylinder...

Anyone seen it ? Pressure applying but not retracting ?

Did you EVEN check the linkage at master cylinder ?

You French

 

[PhantomK12LT]

I checked for several days now. Each time after some hours, the wheel is free to move. When I push on the pedal, it blocks again.
I tried to open a bleeding screw a little, it frees immediately.

Definitely a pressure problem. I guess I'm in for a master cylinder...

Anyone seen it ? Pressure applying but not retracting ?

Having the same issue as we speak..My break line poped also.... Still dealing wiht it.

 

[Frenchy]

Did you EVEN check the linkage at master cylinder ?

You French

Yeeeees I did , nothing found this way.

I open the master cylinder completely and I was suprised to see the simplicity of the thing. I discovered nothing and to be honnest I don't really know how it can be defect. There is just a spring and seals.

I flushed the front, the rear even the central. Nothing changed... I tricked the pistons and it seems this may be JUST a stucked piston. I don't understand as I was able to push all four back with bare hands. Hardly for some but I thought that it would not be stucked if I can move it with hand.

I planned to change the seals and see what happens. I'll keep results posted. :dance:

 

[Wood614]

I'm a bit new to the LT, but I would take a look at the rubber brake line that feeds the caliper. I have had a few of those go bad. The fluid would push through under pressure of the master cylinder but have a blockage that would not allow the fluid to go back to the reservoir when the brake is released. The syptom for that is the brake will finally free up and the wheel will turn after a period of time, may an hour or more.

Just my $1.00 on this (02 with inflation)

Jim Woodring
2001 K1200 LT
1976 R60/6 (450,000 miles)
1975 Norton Commando 850 bought new

 

[Frenchy]

What's wrong with those stealers ?!?

Bought a repair kit for my rear caliper tonight. Asked for 2 seals for the banjo bolt as I will have to disconnect the hose...

Kit was nothing more than 85€... Yes that's about $120. Do you believe he dare to charge me the 2 seals for .10€

OK maybe they paid it. Maybe that's cost reduction. Whatever it is... it's just not friendly at all !!! :cussing:


I'll keep updated as soons as I change these (cross my fingers)

 

[jsr]

I have an 05 and don't know if the brakes are the same. I had a problem with rear brake after an improper installation of the metal retainers (don't know what else to call them) that rest on the brake pads. If they are put in wrong they will not allow the pads to move out once they are in. Had to simply remove calliper and get the spring thing in the right place (again a technical term)

 

[Frenchy]

... still nothing...

I crossed my fingers but that didn't helped much...

As I was dismounting the pistons and seals of the caliper, I said to myself : "That sure doesn't looks like bad seals"

Repair kit is paid and I can't expect a refund from someone that charges me two seals for .10€ so I change the whole thing.

Same thing happens. I have pressure on this bloody system and I don't know why. When brakes applies the wheel is stuck from some time !

Is it time now for a master cylinder ?

Damn...

 

[Frenchy]

I have an 05 and don't know if the brakes are the same. I had a problem with rear brake after an improper installation of the metal retainers (don't know what else to call them) that rest on the brake pads. If they are put in wrong they will not allow the pads to move out once they are in. Had to simply remove calliper and get the spring thing in the right place (again a technical term)

I had hope on this. Unfortunately that wasn't the deal...
Thanks anyway

 

[Frenchy]

I'm a bit new to the LT, but I would take a look at the rubber brake line that feeds the caliper.

Hi Wood614,
Thanks for the input. Could you explain why this could happen, I'm not sure I understand

 

[jzeiler]

Hi Wood614,
Thanks for the input. Could you explain why this could happen, I'm not sure I understand

They can rot inside and form a valve in the center that will allow fluid to go in one direction only. I have had this happen on several old MG's.

 

[Frenchy]

Eureka !!!

I'm a bit new to the LT, but I would take a look at the rubber brake line that feeds the caliper. I have had a few of those go bad.

CONGRATULATIONS !!!
We have a semi-WINNER !​

I cut the hose in all it's length. I saw some little places where the inside rubber was bad. Those very little pieces has detached and were filling the "needle" that is part of the join and that goes inside the hose (not sure that is clear to anyone but me... )

Now is the time to choose :

1 oem hose for about $70
or
complete spiegler kit for $230

 

[EncoreJoe]

Hi Frenchy.

I replaced all the hoses in my '99LT with the Speigler ones this spring. The original front hose from handlebar down to the fork has a fairly sharp bend in it under the fairing and mine felt pretty soft when I replaced it.

I've read some have had leaks in that area so with the age of the bike you might want to replace everything while you are at it. I think of it as good insurance and I won't have to worry about the hoses again for the life of the bike.

Good luck.

Joe