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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I purchased a new rear rotor, EBC MD615. Got it all apart. I removed the 3 screws holding on the ABS ring. The ring will not come off.

How do I remove this?

Thanks
 

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ehaughn said:
Well, I purchased a new rear rotor, EBC MD615. Got it all apart. I removed the 3 screws holding on the ABS ring. The ring will not come off.How do I remove this?Thanks
IIRC- a gentle pry is what got mine off. I do not remember anything other than a friction fit being on it. But I thought there were 4 screws/bolts?
 

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ehaughn said:
Well, I purchased a new rear rotor, EBC MD615. Got it all apart. I removed the 3 screws holding on the ABS ring. The ring will not come off.

How do I remove this?

Thanks
Use a heat gun or pop the whole thing in an oven at 250degrees F. It'll probably come off much more easily with heat. And you'll run less risk of damaging something. HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks all, got it off with a heat gun and gear puller.

All back together, but now I have another issue.

The rotor is an EBC MD615, the rear pads are EBC FF304HH. I have the 2005 LT.

After I reassembled everything, I noticed the rear wheel did not spin freely, has a lot of drag.

I took for a test drive a few miles. Upon inspecting the rear wheel, the rim, tire and rotor were very hot.

The rotor and pads are brand new.

Any idea on what is happening?

I am going to remove the pads now and see if the wheel spins freely without the pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, so I removed the new pads, spun the rear wheel, and there is still drag.

Upon close inspection, the front caliper bolt is touching the rotor. You have to be kidding me! :brick: Since the OEM rotor and the EBC rotor are not 100% identically machined, the EBC rotor sits closer to the caliper.

Driving it a few miles, wore a slight groove in the new rotor.

Placing a thin washer will fix this.

I also noticed when I removed the pads, the inner pad removed easier than the outter pad. I believe this indicates the rotor is not completely centered in the caliper. Any thoughts on how to fix this?

I am going to call EBC tomorrow and inquire about sending me a new rotor and rear pads.
 

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ehaughn said:
Here are a few pics of the rotor.
I think cook1e is seeing the same thing I am. Looks like the hex bolt that mounts the caliper is rubbing on the rotor.

Wrong bolt or missing a washer? See if placing a washer behind that bolt doesn't fix the rotor drag?

Also the rotor doesn't need to be exactly in the center of the caliper, and resistance of removing pads is a function of how easily the pistons/pucks are pushed back into the caliper. As long as there is clearance between the pads and rotor when the pistons are pushed back into the caliper there should be no problem.
Your pistons are moving smoothly without binding in the caliper cylinders?

Also, when you push pads against the pistons to push the pistons into the caliper, some fluid flows to the pistons on the other side of the caliper. Removing the pads on one side will often tighten up the pads against the rotor on the other side. I wouldn't put too much worry into the fact that you observed one side was harder to remove than the other.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks.

I have placed a washer and it has helped.

I beleive the bolts are corrects as I am the original owner. Maybe it was incorrect during factory assembly?

Thanks for the tip on the caliper and pads.

Anyone out there that the send me a close up picture of the front facing caliper bolt?
 

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If my mind hasn't completely failed me, there are two different bolts on the rear and they MUST go back exactly where they came from. One has a washer head on it and the other does not. I would be glad to run to the garage and take a look, but I'm in DTW and my bike is in TYS. Might try swapping the two bolts and see what happens. I'm thinking when I just had my rear rotor off, the bolt with the washer went to the rear. But you'd better double check me on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I believe you are correct. The rear facing bolt had a flange and the front facing bolt does not. At least this is what mine looks like.

A picture would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

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ehaughn said:
I believe you are correct. The rear facing bolt had a flange and the front facing bolt does not. At least this is what mine looks like.

A picture would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
I seem to remember that the bolts are different lengths too. Not interchangeable.
Here's a pic, but not sure it's much help.

On another topic: where did you get your brake rotor? Do you have a part number?

I have run my brake pads down to the metal on a couple of occasions so my rotor is kinda scored. :)

Addendum: addn'l pic. Both bolts have a flange as part of the head. They look the same from this end, but I do think I remember them being different lengths. HTH
 

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Pretty dirty back there as I have been on a long run, but you may be able to make it out


The gap is small, but the new rotor must be massive to fill that gap:



I'd put money on the two bolts having been switched over
 

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ehaughn said:
Hard to tell from the pictures.

Which bolt has the flange?
Never mind the flange. My 2000 has bolts that have identical heads. As others have posted, I too recall the two bolts that mount the caliper are different lengths.

Look up between the rotor and the caliper and see if either bolt is extending out beyond the caliper. If it is, use a shorter bolt, or add washers until the bolt is no longer extending beyond the caliper.

From the pic you posted, it sure looks like the end of one of the caliper mounting bolts is rubbing on the rotor, causing your binding problem.

I suspect you got the bolts mixed up, or you lost a washer, or who knows? Point is, you need to eliminate the interference with the rotor. Once that is accomplished, I'll bet you are good to go. HTH
 

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Dang Cookie, ya think you could washer her every once in a while? or better yet, go SS? Thats just nasty! You mother let you out of the house like that? :histerica :histerica

c00k1e said:
Pretty dirty back there as I have been on a long run, but you may be able to make it out


I'd put money on the two bolts having been switched over
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok all, figured it out.

Looked at the exploded view diagram on line. Guess what, bolts are correct and in correct location for the caliper mount. BUT, the forward facing bolt is missing a washer. Yes, a $0.45 part. Funny, I never removed the caliper, must have been missing from the factory or one of my servicing dealers left it off. Go figure.

This is why I hate someone else working on my LT. Never again....

Erick
 

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There is not a lot of room behind the caliper to the rotor but my (05) front bolt is exactly 1 "" from shoulder to tip with out the washer. If you still have issues with the EBC rotor I would add a shim washer to get the clearance.
The rear bolt should have the "sloped" shoulder and no washer.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thank you for your time and taking the measurement.

See my previous post. I was missing the washer.

The issue now is the rotor does not sit center inside the caliper. The outside pad sits closer than the inside pad. Not sure how this can be corrected or adjusted. I thought since the caliper if fixed and there are 4 pistons, it would self-adjust.

Thanks
 

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ehaughn said:
. I thought since the caliper if fixed and there are 4 pistons, it would self-adjust.

Thanks
It will even out but the rotor may never end up in the center. The pistons will equalize the force on the pads. One always wears more than the other anyway even with a centered rotor.
 
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