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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This could be a potentially long story, but I'll try to keep it brief.

Back in November by LT started acting up, with weird smells and some clutch dragging issues. I tore into it, drilled a weep hole, and found what I thought to be a transmission seal leak. It may have been slave though, I'm not sure.

Either way, I put it back together without replacing any parts, (thinking that the weep hole would drain any fluids that would give me problems) and it went fine for a couple of weeks. Thanksgiving day, I took a few-hour ride, and just before I got home, I was getting off of an expressway, and when I went to stop, the bike acted like I didn't pull the clutch in, and it stalled. I re-started, and when I went to take off, the clutch slipped and I had a hard time getting it rolling. I drove it home, (about two miles) like this, and have left it setting in my garage. It left a sour taste in my mouth that I haven't wanted to deal with. Well, now I'm getting the itch to get her going again.

First things, is it likely just a slave failure? Or possible transmission seal? If it is the latter, I'm a little intimidated by the job; and hoping maybe one of you fine gents in the Rochester NY area who might be familiar with the task may be willing to lend a hand? I have a lift table in my garage, and would gladly work out some sort of arrangement for your help.
 

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Sounds very much like a slave cylinder issue, you have lost fluid in that system and it is unable to maintain pressure therefore your clutch is difficult to depress when you are stopped. Slave cylinder replacement is not that tough and there is a description or two HOW.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Ditto on the slave but you will also need to replace the transmission input shaft rear seal. The brake fluid will destroy the tranny seal. Not a tough job just look at the weep hole video at the top of the page. I used a special tool to seat that seal properly but I beleive at the end of the video I show you how to just use a socket to do the job. Depth is critical on this seal.
 

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jzeiler said:
Ditto on the slave but you will also need to replace the transmission input shaft rear seal. The brake fluid will destroy the tranny seal. Not a tough job just look at the weep hole video at the top of the page. I used a special tool to seat that seal properly but I beleive at the end of the video I show you how to just use a socket to do the job. Depth is critical on this seal.
I have one of those tools for setting the seal depth and would be happy to loan it to you if you like if you pay the shipping. If you send me a note with your address I'll send it out to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, If I can turn the back wheel, while the bike is in 1st gear, and the engine does not turn over, my clutch is fried, right?

Also, my bellhousing appears to be soaked in gear oil.

Sadface.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Try it again only in 5th gear - if it feels exactly the same it could be your driveshaft!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just went out and tried that-- I tried it once in first gear again, for a baseline. I shifted it through the gears, to get up into fifth, rocking the rear wheel to get it to do so, and when I got it into 5th, I could no longer strong-arm the rear wheel against the engine. I clicked it back into neutral, turned no problem, put it in first, and couldn't overpower it anymore.

Does that mean anything? Should I try another test?
 

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2005 K1200LT
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I went back and read your entire first post about finding a leak but just drilled the weep hole. First off if it was oil leaking that will eventually take out the slave (thus dragging clutch) and if it was the slave leaking it will take out the oil seal potentially contaminating the clutch.

From that it is hard to determine just what has happened but it might be worth going in again and pull the push rod and see if it is wet along its length. That will tell you alot. If it is dry then it is time to replace the rear oil seal and the slave. Then go out and do the 5th gear slipping test.
 

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It sounds like the slave cylinder is low on fluid. I'd suggest adding fluid and bleeding the clutch. Then take the bike out for a ride and test the clutch for slippage. I think most people notice the slip trying to accelerate in fifth gear.

If the clutch is good then just replace the slave cylinder and rear seal on the transmission for the push rod.

Good Luck,
Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Can I get an opinion from someone who has seen a slave failure, if they see a problem here, or if there won't be any visible signs?

I already have a new slave, and plan on installing it, but I'm still lacking confidence.
 

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Paul, just an observation, but that splined shaft looks pretty ate up. Is that potential for another problem? :confused:
 

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Every thing looks fine in the hole but the front of the slave looks oily. I know you are changing it out so that is good. The release rod appears wet at the front so that may be a front tranny seal gone south. Confirm if that is tranny oil or engine oil I think I see. That could be the source of your slippage.

The output spline looks good - just lots of lube on it. Be sure to get the snap ring on the shaft engaged when you put it all back.
 

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clutch question

I am adding a SIEBENROCK basic clutch to my bike after a leaking rear main seal. I do not have the centering tool but used a tool to install the pressure plate and clutch. The clutch does not appear to be centered. Is there any tool that I can use other than the factory tool? When I tighten the 6 aluminum bolts on the clutch, the clutch no longer spins freely? Should it?
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Loosen the bolts and "eyeball" the center of the clutch. The hole is small so it is fairly easy to do without a tool. Once you torque the bolts the clutch will not turn (that is a good thing).
 

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is there anything special about a SIEBENROCK clutch, or is that just the brand name? :confused:
 

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bikerj said:
is there anything special about a SIEBENROCK clutch, or is that just the brand name? :confused:
It is made from a non-porous friction material and claims to be oil resistant. One melted to the fly wheel on an LT but others have used them with no issue.
 

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I did not buy the oil resistant one. This one is suppose to be better than the OEM one. I paid $90 vs $170. I hope it last as long as the original one.
 
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