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If I can do it, anybody can...

Shawn,

Using John's instructions, I refilled my preload adjuster a month or so ago. (Before the heat wave.) If I can do it, anybody can do it.

As I mentioned at lunch in Pawnee, I still think new shocks are in my future. Hopefully John will remember me when he does his and I can piggy back on his mechanical prowess once again.

Looking forward to the next RTE when temps are much cooler.

See ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
New shop in my future

Hopefully by the time winter rolls around, I'll be moved from my house in Yukon to Jones, OK Where Lindy has a little land....

I'll be taking the profit from my house sale and building a nice 1500 Sq Ft shop for us to work on our bikes..And I'll be getting a car lift as well !!

Shocks will come hopefully this winter...We'll have a nice tech session..

John
 

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jpspen said:
Hopefully by the time winter rolls around, I'll be moved from my house in Yukon to Jones, OK Where Lindy has a little land....

I'll be taking the profit from my house sale and building a nice 1500 Sq Ft shop for us to work on our bikes..And I'll be getting a car lift as well !!

Shocks will come hopefully this winter...We'll have a nice tech session..

John
Sounds awesome John! Be good to see you OKC guys again...
 

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bmwrubbercow said:
QUESTI0N: Seems it would be much easier to loosen the banjo bolt, just a little bit, before removing the adjuster from the pivot. Would I loose (spill) oil if I did this? Also seems that the final tightening of the banjo bolt at the end of service would be easier if done after the adjuster is re-installed. Does this make sense or would it be better to just follow the instructions that initiated this thread? Hey, I think I can do this one!
There is more than one way to skin this cat.................and you have found an easier one.
I did it as you queried without problems.

Make sure that the adjuster is backed out all the way before you start.
Throw a rag in under the assembly before you start to catch the inevitable drip.;)

Good Luck!
 

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RonKMiller said:
There is a guy in Canada that can re-build stock shocks for a fraction of the price of Ohlins. Apparently they are a distinct improvement over stockers, and he's been at it for some time.... I think he does some re-valving.
Ron - Any additional linkage or contact info for Mr. Maple Leaf?

Thanks
 

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Movement measurement

Greetings people.

Just further to the great tip on topping up the remote rear shock adjuster. In a perfect world, how much vertical movement of the spring/damper combination can we expect when the adjuster is in perfect working condition and we adjust from minimum to maximum load?

Kindest regards

Paul Harrington
AU
[email protected]
 

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This doesn't look like a good thing!

Ok,
All this talk about refilling the preload adjustment got me thinking I should go check mine. I had noticed when i had mine loaded up with gear and 2 up it was very spongy in corners.

Well, I look and mine is on maximum adjustment, so I figure I will back it off and check it. This is where I struck a problem, the adjuster doesn't back off from the high position, when you go to turn it, it has a ton of resistance then it will clunk round like it is stripping the plastic. :eek:

So my question is, if I remove the screw holding the adjustment knob on top, is there something I can get a spanner onto to start it off? Failing that, anyone got any suggestions at all?

Thanks!
 

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Thanks Duane, made sense to me. Happy to know it works in the real world.

Tom
 

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harrowbmw said:
Greetings people.

Just further to the great tip on topping up the remote rear shock adjuster. In a perfect world, how much vertical movement of the spring/damper combination can we expect when the adjuster is in perfect working condition and we adjust from minimum to maximum load?

Kindest regards

Paul Harrington
AU
[email protected]
I measured mine once, it was around 7-8MM.
 

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Bump bump.
Just did this to Lola took 5 minutes to do wow what a differance. CCR 2007 here we come . New shocks come new year ;)
 

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Ozkruz said:
So my question is, if I remove the screw holding the adjustment knob on top, is there something I can get a spanner onto to start it off?
YES.

I had the same problem... it is simple to turn with the plastic knob off.
 

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I am reading the posts about shocks and want to ask a few questions. I just had the stock shocks replaced at Oklahoma BMW over the last couple of weekends. I believe the new shocks are adjusted for my weight and riding style so I am not doing anything yet. My bike is an 02 LT with 40 K miles and the stock shocks preload had been adjusted all the way down. I was still bottoming out so decided to pay the money for a better shock.
Jim
[email protected]
Lawton,Ok
 

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Did it yesterday. No, it is not substitute for a new shock. But, the old one works a lot better not bottoming out all the time. Amazing what a few drops of oil can do.
Thanks for re-posting this!
 

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You do not

want to do this with a Works shock and OEM adjuster unless you know exactly how much fluid to put in. I did it once, then cranked it all the way up blowing out the seal. Had to send it in for fix.
 

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Just finished, have not ridden it yet. could tell a difference just cranking the knob in a little, Took five minutes.
Changed everything but the brake fluid, rear end and transmission oil with 10,000 miles on it looked like it did the day I put it in.
No metal on the magnet in the rear end, just a little sludge, a little fine metal from the tranny, but not scary, normal wear? Hopefully good till 30.000 now.
This forum has sure saved me a lot of time and funds, thanks too all.
I don't have a lift and I'm still sore from laying on the concrete and standing on my head getting the transmission plug out, but at least mine does not have the electric hydraulic center stand in the way.
 

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Just save yourself and buy the Ohlins. It's like riding a comepletely different bike when you put them on. I just don't understand why BMW can't put them on stock, I'd gladly pay the price difference if there is one. OEM'd they'd probably cost very little !!!!!
 

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I can turn my preload adjuster clockwise or counterclockwise and there is no adjustment. Do you think that following this procedure will take care of the problem?

Thanks very your help.
 

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free2ride said:
I can turn my preload adjuster clockwise or counterclockwise and there is no adjustment. Do you think that following this procedure will take care of the problem?

Thanks very your help.
Try it and see. It should give you some resistance when you crank it down.

It is one of the easiest BMW repair you can do.

Good luck,

Joe
 
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