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My discs rattle when I go over bumps. It doesn't worry me too much, they are supposed to be "free floating" and they quiet down when I apply the brakes. However going through town and over bumps, the clanking can frankly be embarassing, nice looking sophisticated bike.....sounding like a steam engine going over the points. Any ideas?

Simon
 

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It is probably only your rear brake disc that is rattling, go back there and see if you can wiggle and jiggle it around. The rear is held on by rivets or something similar and it is a common BMW problem that as the bike wears they become too loose and you have to replace the disc and have new rivets pressed in by the dealer $$$$$.

This happened to me on my R1200c and it was big bucks, however I now know thanks to this forum that there is an aftermarket fix for this that seems to be a lot cheaper. I am sure if you search for disc rattle you will find plenty of threads on this topic. I think the brand is EBC or something like that but I am sure someone will read this and correct me if I am wrong.
 

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k 2003 LT
I delete two of rivets and order two bolts same size as rivet twist it with locktide in 2005/
No rattle at all. No changing in braking.
 

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I'm gonna need more cowbell!
 

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I had the same problem. About 8000 miles ago I decide to try and fix it. I took off the disc and put a small drop of silicone by each rivit. The silicone still allowed the disc to float and no more rattles.
 

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#1 on the sillycone . I put hi temp silicone on mine, no more cow bell. but I still get a squeel every now and then!!
 

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simon said:
My discs rattle when I go over bumps. It doesn't worry me too much, they are supposed to be "free floating" and they quiet down when I apply the brakes. However going through town and over bumps, the clanking can frankly be embarassing, nice looking sophisticated bike.....sounding like a steam engine going over the points. Any ideas?

Simon
BMW want £320 for a replacement disc, which come with the ABS ring??? EBC do a replacement part MD615 for about £177 most places, got one today from Motorworks for £165, and £2.00 for a spacer ring which some folks have needed. You need to remove ABS ring from yours and fit to EBC disc.

Remove rear wheel, Remove Caliper and hang it from your side case with some string so it's not hanging on brake line, remove 2 screws holding disc/ABS (might need heat as loctited) remove 3 screws from ABS ring, prise the ABS of (gently bentley) re-fit in reverse order, in a nut shell! It is well documented on here.


Will try and get pics of the process of changing the disc, from what I've read on here, it's a simple enough process.
 

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I had the same cowbell clang on my '03 LT. Dealer said they had an advisory on it from BMW. I asked about an appointment to have it replaced. I was told that the advisory was to alert the dealers to the noise problem but no warranty or help from BMW. They quoted me $475.00 for the new rotor assembly and $75.00 labor to install.
I took the bike into my shop and dismounted the rear wheel, examined the rear rotor and found it to be in near new condition after 18,000 miles. I decided then and there that I was NOT going to throw away a perfectly good rotor. I measured the "float" distance between the rotor and the hub and found it to be 19/1000th of an inch. Below is the technique I used to correct the "BMW Cowbell Clang".

I now have over 500 miles on my reworked back rotor and I have no more Cling, Clang. It doesn't help the little screetching from the brake pads that comes and goes, but everyone seems to think it is the compound of the OEM brake pads. I am waiting for my time for pad change, which will not be OEM, to see if that can be solved also.
The re-work for the rotor is fairly straight forward. Remove the rear wheel, remove the two bolts securing the rear caliper and suspend the caliper out of the way to remove the two bolts securing the brake rotor hub from the final drive. Once you have the hub rotor assembly on the bench and cleaned up, you need to gently wedge between the rotor and the hub with something like knife blades or wood chisels in at least three equidistant places around the hub. This will hold the "floating disk" at the far side from the hub on the float pins. Then, using a metal shim feeler gauge, measure the distance between the hub and the rotor. Mine was 19 thousands of an inch.

I obtained some 19 thousands shimstock and cut 1/2" x 1/2" square peices. Then, on one edge of each shim , bent a 1/8" inch x 1/2" 90 degree bend.

These angle bent shims are now gently tapped between the hub and the rotor from the outside, centered between each set of float pins. The little 1/8" flange on the shim stops it from sliding through by stopping it at the edge of the hub. As I recall, I needed eight shims so there was one centered between each pair of float pins.
I then set the hub/rotor assembly in my bench vise, gently clamping on the rotor with one of the shim flanges now setting firmly against the vise jaw. I then used a utility knife to lift and bend another flange on the shim on the inside of the rotor. After the flange is bent 90 degrees on the inside, I used a small pin punch to firmly swege the newly bent flange tightly against the rotor's arched cutout. Then rotating the hub rotor in the vise, I proceeded to do the same with all the shim spacers. When they are all sweged tightly, put a drop of super glue on the inside flange bend on each shim, allowing the glue to run between the rotor and shim.

This basically turns the "floating disk" into a non-floating disk and eliminates the "clang clang" tune. My first attempt did not resolve the problem as the shim stock I had was 18 thousands, and left an almost imperceptible amount of float on the disk. The clang was greatly reduced, but not completely gone. You need a shim that will eliminate all float to be successful. Total cost of repair $2.50.
 

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I just put on the EBC rotor and no more cowbell. Cost more than silicone or shimming, but was delivered to my door, took virtually no time to install, and solved the problem immediately. I was happy to spend the few bucks rather than tie up a lot of time doing what might have been temporary fixes and/or having to redo them multiple times. YMMV

:corn:
 

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i replaced the rear disc with an EBC and all is quiet now and the brakes are working fine.
It's easy to do the swap as described above; the ABS ring comes off easily using a screwdriver to move it over. When the new disc is on check that it is not skewed by rotating the wheel with the brake applied by the other hand (!) and if there is binding spot you may need to remove the disc again and give all the mating surfaces a really thorough clean in case there is dirt/dust there. So do this when you are first fitting the disc and it should be ok. I needed to give it a second clean off - as i didn't give it a really good one to start; use fine emery or just sandpaper and a good polish up. I had 45k on the clock and the disc was down to wear limit anyhow; but the BMW disc "rivet" set up was rubbish and some of them were quite worn, others not at all. It was time for the change.
Good luck
Tony.
 

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I just replaced rear rotor and pads this week. The job took longer than I expected because I rounded one of the rotor retaining screws, but once I got that screw out it was pretty easy. Best of all, my bike doesn't sound like it's falling apart anymore when I go over bumps.

Here is where I got my rotor and pads. My bike is a 2006 LT.

Rotor: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...-Rear-Brake-Rotor-2006-BMW-K1200LT-Parts.aspx

Pads: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...ntered-Brake-Pads-2006-BMW-K1200LT-Parts.aspx


HTH

Chris W.


EDIT: OOOPS! TOTALLY forgot to thank the forum for providing the info on how to do this job. Big thanks to the guys who take time to contribute here and make it easier for the rest of us. :toast:
 

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I fixed the cowbell on both my 2001 and 1999 LTs by removing the wheel, taking off the rotor, and applying "shoe goo" to the rivets. Does not hamper braking efficiency and eliminates the noise. Lasts thousands of miles. Cost is under $3.00. Got the idea from this site.
 

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I currently have a rattling rotor on my99 LT with 48k miles. Its just getting started rattle.

Is the noise just annoying or is it a safety issue and the rotor might fall off?
 

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It is a safety issue. My 2008 LT developed a rattle; everyone I spoke to was of the opinion that "they all do that". The rivets eventually broke, leaving the rear disk hanging and completely separated from the rear wheel. I didn't have an accident - I think I was very lucky. I would replace/fix it sooner rather than later.
 

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I have put 2 OEM disks on my 03, Both started rattling again at about14000 miles. I ran them both as long as I could stand the noise and thought I had pushed the safety issue to the limit. I ordered my EBC MP615 rotor and FA304 MM pads yesterday. Both should be here tomorrow afternoon.
I want to thank all the members here for your contributions on the issue. :wave I followed the instructions of several posts and removed the disk and ABS ring with no issues, and all in about 45 minutes.
I also want to thank the members that returned my messages on there long term knowledge of the EBC rotors. Aftermarket scares the hell out of me at times but I think this is going to be a great long term fix.

Lloyd

oh ya, this fix cost me only 170.00 :histerica .... for an LT that is NOTHING. :dance: :bmw:
 

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mccodavj said:
It is a safety issue. My 2008 LT developed a rattle; everyone I spoke to was of the opinion that "they all do that". The rivets eventually broke, leaving the rear disk hanging and completely separated from the rear wheel. I didn't have an accident - I think I was very lucky. I would replace/fix it sooner rather than later.

Dave, I haven't seen nor heard of you in too long.Whats happening?

Robert
 

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I have the same rattling problem. I ordered the EBC rotor for a replacement. My problem is one of the screws holding the speed sensor ring rounded off. I finally got it out but I can't find it in the parts catalog anywhere. What size is this screw? Maybe around a 5mm x 10mm?
 

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My EBC rear disk came with 3 screws for the ABS sensor ring. Check inside the box, because I almost threw it out.
Good luck!
 
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