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Clear-coated it, I promise this is the last post...

But the clear did make the metal flake POP...

Pete
 

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Hey, Pete - I must have missed your original posts.

So, forgive duplication: the paint job looks just great, what did you use for base and coat?

Do you think it will hold up to road debris?
 

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previous threads were:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26134

and

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26003

Sanded all three pieces (off the bike) with 400-grit paper first, then Duplicolor sandable fill-in primer did wonders, even on the two spots I had some damage from a tip-over, followed that with 340-grit sandpaper, then three coats of Duplicolor "metal flakes" silver paint (three cans was perfect, but I am a beginner--more skilled may have been able to accomplish this with less).

Wet-sanded that with 1000-grit to smooth the over-spray (I had a couple areas that were rough to the touch and therefore weren't as reflective). Went over the whole thing with rubbing compound, then polishing compound, then cleaned it with solvent to remove any remaining dust/etc.

Two light coats and one "wet" coat of Duplicolor spray clear top coat (I know, would have been better to go with an air compressor, etc, but I didn't have all that). Again, very LIGHTLY gone over with wet sand 1000 grit, just used the polishing compound this time, and WOW did it come out nice for a guy who has to re-read the directions on shampoo or screw up the "shampoo, rinse, repeat" directions...

As far as it holding up, before the clear coat, I did a little riding and got two tiny (quarter milimeter at best) rock dings, wouldn't notice them if I wasn't working on the pieces. I imagine the clear will add a layer of protection there. With the clearcoat, it's at least as strong/hard as any other automotive paint, I suppose.

I stopped by the local sign shop and bought a piece of laminate and put it on the bottom of the chin spoiler only as that is the area that gets beat up most...am thinking about popping for a "paint protection kit" or checking the local tint shop to see what it would cost to have the chin spoiler and front-facing surfaces of the two other lowers prepped, just for grins.

"Who was that man on that shiny steed?" "Hi-yo silverrrrrr awayyyyyyyyyy!"

(sorry, too much time in the sun)

Pete
 

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Wow! That really looks good Pete!
 

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Clear makes all the difference. Where you will niotice the difference the most will be in durability, as far as rattle can clear vs paint gun clear. The gun applied clear you'd add a flex agent that would keep the clear from spider webbing when hit by any rocks thrown up.
All in all, good job. It pays to take your time and pay attention to details.
 

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Most awesome!!! I like it better than the black.
 

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messenger13 said:
Pete...now that REALLY looks spectacular. Bravo!!!

Careful, Joe, people are gonna' wonder who hijacked your username!!!

thanks, my man.
 

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Morley said:
Clear makes all the difference. Where you will niotice the difference the most will be in durability, as far as rattle can clear vs paint gun clear. The gun applied clear you'd add a flex agent that would keep the clear from spider webbing when hit by any rocks thrown up.
All in all, good job. It pays to take your time and pay attention to details.

NEXT time I am planning a road trip to your house, Morley, I'll buy the steaks (and beer if you drink, Diet coke for me), and you can teach me how to really paint!

Pete
 

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petevandyke said:
NEXT time I am planning a road trip to your house, Morley, I'll buy the steaks (and beer if you drink, Diet coke for me), and you can teach me how to really paint!

Pete
It is an aquired knack, but the one tip that tends to help, whether can or compressor, is to keep a wet edge. Overlap passes 50% adjusting spray distance for a wet but not runny application.

With metalflake or metallic, it's a bad idea to flat before the clearcoat as you are actually removing some of the sparkle. If it's really bad, flat back and recoat the base, then clear.
 

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Pete:
That looks outstanding! Let's see, my 24k service will be due in the fall, just may have to follow your lead and paint mine up like yours since the tupperware will be off anyway. Thanks for the write-up.

Ray
 

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Hey, I'm all about the rattle can spray jobs. Looks great and was cheap to boot, relatively speaking. It can be done with good results, as you have shown.

Randy
 

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Pete,

That looks great. Much better than stock. Not sure if you used it but they make a base (primer), topcoat, and clear with flex in it so that it won't crack when flexed or bumped hard. Used on plastic car bumpers, hoods etc.....Also helps when bugs crash into the bike (I don't know why they do that).
 

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Duplicolor

NEVER use spray-on solvents like brake cleaner or parts cleaner on this finish as it will damage it almost instantly. Experience.
 
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