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A rat got into the engine compartment of my wife's 09 328i in the garage. He chewed a few electrical lines to the sum of $300! At the same time, the damn rodent ate threw my clutch line in my 08 LT! So, as far as breaking down the bike to replace the clutch line, will I need to go to nearly the same extent as replacing the clutch or drilling the 'weep hole'? The hole in the line is just behind the swing arm. Is the line in two parts with a connector somewhere? Or does it go all the way from the tranny housing to the clutch handle?

At least I park the X3 I just bought last weekend outside! Geeeez!
 

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Time for some rat-bastard poison!
 

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An acquaintance of mine left his Aston Martin in the garage over the winter in the Tahoe area a couple of years ago. The mice ate through almost $18,000 in wiring and other engine compartment goodies:(
 

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Nothin like a rat with impeccable taste to ruin your day. Don't kill him. Torture him. We've got a cat so the only vermin I see are brought in and left dead but intact on the floor to trade for some Friskies tuna. ;)
 

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Buggers!!! Hate them rats!

Just look at the weep hole drilling video in the sticky at the top of the page. Just the swing arm needs to come off. But if it is the end that goes to the handle bars then the tank will need to be pulled as well. 4-6 hour job depending on our skill set.
 

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Sorry to hear about your rat bastard issue. I was pissed because the little beggars ate a sweet tater stored in the garage!

Loren
 

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If you're talking about a pack-rat, poison won't work. Neither will the electronic repellants or chemical repellants. Your only options will be live trapping, large rat trapping, or, like I did, shoot the little bastard in the eye while he looks at your from inside the fender well of the victim vehicle - ask me how I know that!!
Here's what I had to go through to get to one wiring harness on the wife's Audi. All frickin' day. And shooting the little prick in the eye DID make me feel better :)
 

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Rats are extremely cautious with new items in their area. If you're going to trap place a unsprung trap baited with fish oil (from a can of tuna works) in their trail. They travel the same path just about every time. They have very poor vision but can sense movement. To compensate they have excellent hearing and smell. Leave the trap unsprung for a few days for them to get used to it. Their trail is marked by grease smears from their fur, urine and droppings. After a few days set the trap. Hopefully you'll see a smashed rat. Again, they're very cautious. Not like mice that are very curious and can be caught with an unbaited trap placed in their runs. And it only takes a hole the size of a dime for a mouse to get through. Rats can come through a hole the size of a quarter. Poison can work with rats as well. But it's best to put the poison in a closed container- they don't like to stop and eat where they're exposed to the eyes of predators. Solid blocks of poison are the best because it's easier to tell if they've been fed on. Of course mice will feed on them too, which is good, but may lead you to believe you're making headway on the rats when that is not the case. Poison can also be consumed by non-target species- cats, dogs, etc.

Good luck. Rats are tough to get rid of but with persistence you can do it.

And that concludes my pest control seminar of the day!
 

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I had a 63 Chevy Short Wide and the rats ate the plug wires and coil wire off one winter. I put a box of poison up on the manifold. They ate the poison and then they ate the box..... :(
 

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Moth balls in an old nylon stocking work well to repel them. During warm weather they only last a few weeks before sublimating, and they're stoopid expensive ...butt then again so are wiring harnesses!

(I've also heard that shaved pieces of Irish Spring soap work well too.)
 

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I would have thought the DOT 4 fluid would have done a job on the rat? My advice always is, get a big cat and don't feed it :histerica
 

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Samir said:
Nothin like a rat with impeccable taste to ruin your day. Don't kill him. Torture him. We've got a cat so the only vermin I see are brought in and left dead but intact on the floor to trade for some Friskies tuna. ;)
Our cats eat the vermin, tail, fur and all, but always leave the liver on the deck as proof of their efforts. They earn their keep. :D
 

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As one post noted, it sounds like a "pack rat" or wood rat. They also invade vehicles parked outside - ask me how I know? If you choose to use traps, I've had success with both live traps and rat sized snap traps. I've had the best success with apple pieces that I tie down to the treadle so the rat has to pull hard to try and dislodge it. If you live trap the rat be sure to transport it far away from home!

Denny
 

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RonKMiller said:
Moth balls in an old nylon stocking work well to repel them. During warm weather they only last a few weeks before sublimating, and they're stoopid expensive ...butt then again so are wiring harnesses!

(I've also heard that shaved pieces of Irish Spring soap work well too.)
Geez, Ron.

This goes back a ways, but I'm surprised to read your reply. I thought you'd repel them by urinating around the perimeter of the building or something. :rolleyes:
 

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pickerbiker said:
Our cats eat the vermin, tail, fur and all, but always leave the liver on the deck as proof of their efforts. They earn their keep. :D
Same here but since we have a pet door, they leave the evidence on the living room floor.
 

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hschisler said:
Geez, Ron.

This goes back a ways, but I'm surprised to read your reply. I thought you'd repel them by urinating around the perimeter of the building or something. :rolleyes:

Nah, NEVER in the garage Howard - only off the back deck to keep the poodle from being an hors d'oeuvres or to keep bears out of the tent. :D

Why, it's like an invisible fence! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
jzeiler said:
Buggers!!! Hate them rats!

Just look at the weep hole drilling video in the sticky at the top of the page. Just the swing arm needs to come off. But if it is the end that goes to the handle bars then the tank will need to be pulled as well. 4-6 hour job depending on our skill set.

I've pulled all of the Tupperware off before on my 2000 LT; crazy m/c designers on crack to not give better access to the air filter...

But I'm wondering if the clutch line is in two parts? An upper and a lower? Oh well, it's looks like I've got my work cut out for me!
 

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Actually it is in three parts. Upper and lower pressure hoses and a bleed port hose. I guess you really need to figure out which part they chewed up. The upper and lower join under the tank and the bleed hose goes over to the right tip over bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
jzeiler said:
Actually it is in three parts. Upper and lower pressure hoses and a bleed port hose. I guess you really need to figure out which part they chewed up. The upper and lower join under the tank and the bleed hose goes over to the right tip over bar.
You're right, there's actually 3 hoses. It turns out it's the lower pressure hose I need (to the tidy sum of $128). They're not exactly giving these things way! I doubt I'll have to remove the final drive, shock and related for this hose - at least I hope not!
 

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You might be able to take that hose to a local place and have them make one for you? Even a stainless steel one?

Best
Bob
 
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