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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys I’m looking for help, I’m having the old ’’no radio‘‘ problem. When I turn my ignition on the display lights up with the ’’no radio’’ message flashing, I get music from the radio for about 20 seconds and then it cuts off with the ’’no radio’’ message still flashing. I’ve tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it to no avail.
it was working fine till I let my battery get totally discharged.......Thanks
 

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2003 BMW K1200 LT (88K on 2020/08/13)
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Rab-33:
No answer from me, but you might include the tear and model, for those that may be able to answer.
 

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One of the more common causes is corrosion. The rubber around the buttons develops cracks and let water into the circuit board in the controller and causes corrosion. Some times you can open up the controller and clean the corrosion off. The screws with #1 on them will release the controller from the top of the stingray. #2 is the controller connector.

Then there is a sample of the board. Corrosion will be a white powdery substance.

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An analogue multimeter is a useful tool, find the white/purple in the diagnostic connector and connect the meter from there to ground. It should show +12V with ignition on. Turn ignition off, wait a minute and then turn it on. You should then see pulses on the meter, showing that the Ibus is working.

Remedies range from fuse inspection to disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, through to checking all the connectors. The one of most interest is one of the trio under the stingray top left. Make sure that they are all pushed properly home.

It is possible as stated above that the controller has died, but a visual inspection will help that diagnosis. The radio itself can die like that, if you can borrow one, you could do a substitution test. Should the radio be faulty, you have three choices... Secondhand unit, repair yours or put in a modern Bluetooth radio with one of my Ibus conversion modules.
 

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An analogue multimeter is a useful tool, find the white/purple in the diagnostic connector and connect the meter from there to ground. It should show +12V with ignition on. Turn ignition off, wait a minute and then turn it on. You should then see pulses on the meter, showing that the Ibus is working.

Remedies range from fuse inspection to disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, through to checking all the connectors. The one of most interest is one of the trio under the stingray top left. Make sure that they are all pushed properly home.

It is possible as stated above that the controller has died, but a visual inspection will help that diagnosis. The radio itself can die like that, if you can borrow one, you could do a substitution test. Should the radio be faulty, you have three choices... Secondhand unit, repair yours or put in a modern Bluetooth radio with one of my Ibus conversion modules.
Not easy to find a good analog multi meter these days.
 

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Not easy to find a good analog multi meter these days.
Plenty on the likes of Ebay etc. I hesitate before recommending the better alternative of an LED, because it tends to make people think that they are dabbling with witchcraft and a meter is useful in many other ways too.
 

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Plenty on the likes of Ebay etc. I hesitate before recommending the better alternative of an LED, because it tends to make people think that they are dabbling with witchcraft and a meter is useful in many other ways too.
Yes I use them heavily in my line of work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
An analogue multimeter is a useful tool, find the white/purple in the diagnostic connector and connect the meter from there to ground. It should show +12V with ignition on. Turn ignition off, wait a minute and then turn it on. You should then see pulses on the meter, showing that the Ibus is working.

Remedies range from fuse inspection to disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, through to checking all the connectors. The one of most interest is one of the trio under the stingray top left. Make sure that they are all pushed properly home.

It is possible as stated above that the controller has died, but a visual inspection will help that diagnosis. The radio itself can die like that, if you can borrow one, you could do a substitution test. Should the radio be faulty, you have three choices... Secondhand unit, repair yours or put in a modern Bluetooth radio with one of my Ibus conversion modules.
An analogue multimeter is a useful tool, find the white/purple in the diagnostic connector and connect the meter from there to ground. It should show +12V with ignition on. Turn ignition off, wait a minute and then turn it on. You should then see pulses on the meter, showing that the Ibus is working.

Remedies range from fuse inspection to disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, through to checking all the connectors. The one of most interest is one of the trio under the stingray top left. Make sure that they are all pushed properly home.

It is possible as stated above that the controller has died, but a visual inspection will help that diagnosis. The radio itself can die like that, if you can borrow one, you could do a substitution test. Should the radio be faulty, you have three choices... Secondhand unit, repair yours or put in a modern Bluetooth radio with one of my Ibus conversion modules.
An analogue multimeter is a useful tool, find the white/purple in the diagnostic connector and connect the meter from there to ground. It should show +12V with ignition on. Turn ignition off, wait a minute and then turn it on. You should then see pulses on the meter, showing that the Ibus is working.

Remedies range from fuse inspection to disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, through to checking all the connectors. The one of most interest is one of the trio under the stingray top left. Make sure that they are all pushed properly home.

It is possible as stated above that the controller has died, but a visual inspection will help that diagnosis. The radio itself can die like that, if you can borrow one, you could do a substitution test. Should the radio be faulty, you have three choices... Secondhand unit, repair yours or put in a modern Bluetooth radio with one of my Ibus conversion modules.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys, can someone tell me where the diagnostic connector is as suggested by Scimitar.
Thanks.
 

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It is right under the seat, back under the sub frame on the right side. It has a gray cap on it.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi guys, after a full day following the advice you guys gave me im still no further forward with my radio issues.
I've checked the following
fuses,
connections,
also tried the disconnect the battery trick to no avail.
0pened the controller and looked at the circuit board and it appears to visually look fine, no white residue from water.
Also found that the diagnostic connector had two white/purple wires, I found one showed 12V with the ignition on, but when I turned the ignition off for a minute and back on there was no pulsing.
I couldn't get any reading from the other white/purple wire at all.
The radio is still coming on and playing fine for around 20 seconds, then the no radio comes up on the display and it switches off soon after...
😫😫😫😫
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I think you may have the wrong connector for the diagnostic plug.

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Also found that the diagnostic connector had two white/purple wires, I found one showed 12V with the ignition on, but when I turned the ignition off for a minute and back on there was no pulsing.
I couldn't get any reading from the other white/purple wire at all.
One dead one is perfectly normal. The lack of pulsing tells me that the conbtroller is either not working or it is disconnected. You could do some continuity tests on the white / purple; it goes to the diagnostic connector, the controller and the radio via the three plugs under the stingray, so connect those up for testing.

If the controller has died, bear in mind that there are three types. However as you have the two white/purple wires I suspect that you have an early pre-faceleift, which is the most common. As long as the donor 'bike had a cassette radio the same as yours, it will be fine. The later pre-facelift controllers will only work with the CD radio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think you may have the wrong connector for the diagnostic plug.

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Gray cap, right hand side under frame?
One dead one is perfectly normal. The lack of pulsing tells me that the conbtroller is either not working or it is disconnected. You could do some continuity tests on the white / purple; it goes to the diagnostic connector, the controller and the radio via the three plugs under the stingray, so connect those up for testing.

If the controller has died, bear in mind that there are three types. However as you have the two white/purple wires I suspect that you have an early pre-faceleift, which is the most common. As long as the donor 'bike had a cassette radio the same as yours, it will be fine. The later pre-facelift controllers will only work with the CD radio.
Mine has the CD radio rather than the cassette radio.
 

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Gray cap, right hand side under frame?

Mine has the CD radio rather than the cassette radio.

In that case you have either a hybrid (black controller) or a facelift which is silver. If you have the black one, you need to be very particular when buying a replacement as the cassette version will not work at all, in fact it will give you the symptoms that you describe.

Let's just be clear, this has all worked correctly recently and nothing has been done to it before it failed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
In that case you have either a hybrid (black controller) or a facelift which is silver. If you have the black one, you need to be very particular when buying a replacement as the cassette
In that case you have either a hybrid (black controller) or a facelift which is silver. If you have the black one, you need to be very particular when buying a replacement as the cassette version will not work at all, in fact it will give you the symptoms that you describe.

Let's just be clear, this has all worked correctly recently and nothing has been done to it before it failed?
The controller was working fine till the battery went completely flat and its not worked since.
I've replaced the battery with a new one and still nothing.
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The controller was working fine till the battery went completely flat and its not worked since.
I've replaced the battery with a new one and still nothing.
Send it down to me if you like, I should be able to do a bench test. Depending on how far you are from Gloucester, you could bring the whole 'bike of course.

The date code of that controller suggests that it is for a cassette radio, not the CD that was only fitted to the 2003 hybrids.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Send it down to me if you like, I should be able to do a bench test. Depending on how far you are from Gloucester, you could bring the whole 'bike of course.

The date code of that controller suggests that it is for a cassette radio, not the CD that was only fitted to the 2003 hybrids.
Thanks for the offer, but I'll probably bite the bullet and buy a secondhand unit. (If there's one available)
Its definitely a CD/Radio on my bike and has worked fine for the last 5 years until the battery went completely flat just the other week and its not worked since...😫
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